Tentredine


Question: sawfly

What can I use to combat the rose sawfly?

Thank you


Tentredine: Answer: Tentredine

Hello Paola and welcome to the "Questions and answers" section of our website. To combat the sawfly, he can use different tricks and different products. The sawfly is a 5-6 mm long insect in the adult stage that parasitizes plants of the Rosaceae family. Harmful phytophagous, it eats the leaves when it is in the larva stage, causing serious damage to our roses.

The most frequently used remedy is the chemical fight and is done in particular by those who work with plants. The treatment is applied during the first stages of development of the larva, in the first and second stages. In the home garden, on the other hand, a careful owner should check the leaves in April and May and promptly eliminate those that are characterized by the presence of the parasite's eggs or present this parasite in the larval stage.

  • Rose propagation

    Roses, flowers par excellence, undisputed queens of parks, meadows, gardens, beautiful, fragrant and not very difficult to grow, with their flowers decorate and color the gardens of our homes.
  • Diseases of the rose

    The rose is one of the plants most affected by more or less serious diseases. In this article we will talk about the most frequent ones caused by fungi, parasites, viruses or maintenance behaviors and ...
  • Rose pruning

    Pruning is a very important operation for having healthy, beautiful and lush roses; There are many types and bearing types of roses and each of them needs a precise and specific pruning. Also ...
  • Climbing roses

    Climbing roses are perennial shrubby plants native to the northern hemisphere areas that produce beautiful flowers and for this reason they are mostly grown for ornamental purposes both in v ...

How to deal with pear pests


All fruit crops suffer from pest attacks, and pears are no exception in this respect. Do not take any means to protect the trees, at least in a reckless way, as this can lead not only to the death of the crop, but to the entire tree.

In relation to this novice gardeners are very concerned about the question: "What insects are dangerous and what means should be used to pests but never left" And so as not to panic every large butterfly or beetle on a pear, it is necessary know the enemy in the face.


Measures against the apple tree

weevilit is a brown-brown beetle, small in size but different from a long proboscis. It appears long before the wasp and can affect the buds and buds of the apple tree, which therefore do not dissolve.

If it really hits your garden, the buds will start to stand out from the buds, and the buds and leaves will stay dry. Coloroderm is dangerous because it hibernates in fallen leaves and in the bark of fruit trees, and after the defeat of the kidneys it can still live on a tree for a month, eating leaves already in bloom.

therefore for parasite prevention in autumn it is important to remove all the leaves from under the tree and burn them. Also it is necessary to take care of the whitewashing of the logs.

How to spray apples from flowers? For this purpose it is recommended to use "Chlorophos" solution, stirred at a concentration of 0.2%.

But effective spraying will only take place if they are performed after the bud has bloomed. But if you have managed to identify the parasites before, it is recommended to be shaken from the tree onto the canvas and the collected insects are heated in water. Such a procedure will be small, so they should be repeated 3-4 times until the temperature rises above +10 ° C.


HOW TO INTERVENE ON ORNAMENTAL PLANTS

The plants most affected by Tentredini it's Rose and rosaceae in general, i Willows and the Conifers, but it can also damage fruit plants such as Apple tree, the However, the Plum, the Lettuces and i Cabbages.

The fight against Tentredine it can be carried out in a preventive manner using biological insecticides, spraying the leaves on the lower page, the one most affected by the attack of the larvae.

In any case, towards late spring, it is advisable to check the leaves of the most affected plants to immediately understand if the infestation is present and take appropriate action. In fact, during the first larval stages, it may be sufficient to just remove the attached leaves and manually eliminate the insects and eggs to reduce the risk of infestations.

In the case of an infestation that has already occurred, we must distinguish whether it is an ornamental plant or an edible plant.

In the case of an ornamental plant, we can use a chemical insecticide based on pyrethrum and other components with a killing action, capable of eliminating the insect at any stage of development quickly and easily.


How to deal with juniper rust

Juniper is a fairly large group of evergreen conifers of the cypress family. For planting gardens and suburban areas juniper trees and shrubs planted a height of 150 cm to 20 m, various forms - trailing, bushy, spherical or erect. But, despite all its beauty and unpretentiousness, improper care and disease [...]

Juniper is a fairly large group of evergreen conifers of the cypress family. For planting gardens and suburban areas juniper trees and shrubs planted a height of 150 cm to 20 m, various forms - trailing, bushy, spherical or erect. But, despite all its beauty and unpretentiousness, improper care and disease can inflict serious damage on the plant. The article will discuss how to properly care for junipers and the means of fighting pests.

  1. Juniper care
    • fertilizer
    • Irrigation and sprinkling
    • Loosening and mulching
    • pruning
    • Preparation for wintering
  2. Diseases and parasites
    • Juniper pests
      • sawfly
      • aphid
      • Reduce the mole
      • The acicular tick
      • Juniper crust
    • Juniper diseases
      • Fusarium (withered tracheomycosis)
      • Alternaria
      • Juniper rust
      • Schutte

Young junipers have needle-shaped leaves, which vary with age, depending on the variety, and come in the form of small scales. Juniper has a powerful root system, but it grows extremely slowly, due to this feature, the growth period of some representatives can last up to 1000 years.

Juniper care

  • Conifers belong to crops that do not require special care. The main care is to water, spray, loosen the soil and remove weeds.
  • It is important to protect the plant in early spring from sunburn, and in winter to protect the crown from snowball pressure.
  • And if at the same time the right place for planting was chosen - a clear sunny clearing, with a light nutritious soil - then the junipers will rejoice for a long time with healthy, dense foliage and attractive appearance.

Fertilizer

  • A young juniper needs an annual application of fertilizers, starting from the second year after planting. Other representatives of adults should be fed 1 time in 2-3 years. As a fertilizer used manure, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and other mineral fertilizers.
  • The nutrient mixture is introduced into the soil around the plant, to a depth of 10 cm, and then watered during the kidney swelling period (late April-early June). So it is not necessary to fall asleep fertilizers asleep directly on a trunk or branches of plants (to retreat 15 m sm).
  • Furthermore, during the summer season, it is allowed to "feed" the juniper with a special complex fertilizer for conifers. The composition, which includes such elements as:
    1. magnesium
    2. potassium
    3. iron
    4. copper
    5. manganese
    6. zinc
    7. phosphorus.
  • Thanks to this combination, juniper receives a full-fledged diet, which positively affects the color and brightness of the needles, resistance to unfavorable climatic factors and strengthening immunity.
  • When buying fertilizers, preference should be given to the one in which the nitrogen content is minimal, especially if it is planned to do it in the fall. Since this negatively affects the frost resistance of junipers: there is an active growth of shoots that do not have time to stiffen during the winter period and freeze. At the same time, juniper needs a lot of magnesium, with the lack of a yellowing of the apical shoots.
  • Well prepared junipers to be applied in the soil of liquid organic fertilizers based on biohumus diluted with water. This high band stimulates the growth of the root system and activates the processes of photosynthesis.
  • The application of any fertilizer must comply with the recommendations on the package, as junipers are plants that are better for not feeding than overfeeding.

Irrigation and sprinkling

  • Juniper belongs to drought-tolerant plants, but if the summer is too dry and muggy, it should be abundantly watered by planting 2-3 times per season. On a bush poured 30 liters of water. Basically, young and newly transplanted plants need watering. This is due to the fact that their roots have not yet penetrated the soil and are located close to the surface. Watering is done in the morning or in the evening.
  • In the fall, before the plant is fully prepared for winter hibernation, it is watered abundantly (from 1 meter to 10 liters of water), this measure will help the juniper winter better.

  • A large amount of dust settles on the branches and needles of plants, which spoils the appearance and clogs the pores, preventing the photosynthesis process. As a contamination (about 1-2 times a month), it is necessary to spray the crown. The procedure is carried out in the morning or in the evening to avoid the occurrence of sunburn on the foliage, as the water acts as a lens, attracting the sun's rays.
  • The jet of water should not be directed directly to the juniper, otherwise the fragile jets could break under strong pressure. This is particularly bad for the form of the colonial representatives. Recently transplanted juniper can be sprayed with the addition of anti-stress agents: "Zircon", "Epin-Extra", "Ribav" and others.

Loosening and mulching

  • Juniper needs tillage and mulching of the soil after each watering and weeding. Young plants have small roots, located near the surface, so loosening the soil should be neat and shallow.
  • Mulching is necessary to prevent the formation of a dense earth crust, rapid drying of the soil and suppression of weed growth. In addition, due to mulching, it is possible to avoid burning the root system from the bright sun or its freezing during recurrent frosts. In addition, it is an excellent tool for the development of a special soil microflora and mycorrhizae, through which plants receive more nutrients and water from the soil.

  • As mulch used varied crushed material:. peat, sawdust, coniferous bark, wood chips or walnut shells, wrapped in a layer of 5-10 cm mulch has a decorative function, giving the composition of a finished juniper appearance.

Pruning

  • Juniper is used in many compositions of gardens and parks, it can be planted in small groups or solitary representatives. Most of its species do not need pruning, but when a hedge is formed it is necessary. The plant tolerates the haircut well, so it is quite easy to form its crown of different shapes: pyramidal, spherical, creeping or columnar. Then there are the juniper photos of various shapes.

Tip: Don't forget that most of them are slow-growing plants, so you need to cut them carefully.

  • Forming a garden composition from several juniper plants, it is important to observe the distance between the plantings, so that next to the growing plants they do not make each other:
  1. Fast-growing species are planted at a distance of 3-4 m
  2. slow growth can be planted at a distance of 1-3 m from each other
  3. creeping species are planted in groups of 2-4 pieces. for 1kv.m.
  • If the conditions have not been met and neighboring branches interfere with the full development of plants, then it is necessary to prune.
  • It is important to remove dry and damaged branches and broken shoots throughout the season. The best time for crown formation is the spring period, before the bud blooms. The juniper used as a hedge is cut in midsummer. It is not recommended to make a haircut in the fall, as this adversely affects the wintering of plants.

Preparation for wintering

  • Conifers are generally among the frost-resistant crops, but some varieties do not tolerate harsh climate, so in winter they should be covered spruce branches, and the soil around the mulch with a layer of sawdust or peat (up to 10 cm), than in the spring shovel, so as not to vyprevayut roots.
  • Young plants (up to 3-4 years old) should also be covered for the winter period. In addition, if juniper is spreading crown or pyramidal and columnar shape, the branches in the winter need not be too tightly fastened with string or twine to avoid damage to their snow cover.

  • Adult juniper, which is resistant to low temperatures, it is better not to cover, as this may lead to undesirable consequences - during the winter it melts under the lining materials begin to develop fungal diseases. However, they need to be shaded for the winter, using a grid placed on the sunny side.
  • Overwintering successfully helps juniper abundant autumn watering. If the crown was formed (cut) in late September-October, then the plant should be sure to hide.
  • The following materials are used for hospitalization:
    1. canvas
    2. kraft paper or regular newspaper
    3. non-woven materials (spunbond, lutrasil, agrospan and others).
  • Do not use material that does not pass air. The plant should breathe, so wrapping the lid around the juniper should be left open, preferably with a shadow side to avoid hitting sunlight and the possibility of crown burns.
  • Remove the shelter carefully, so as not to damage the fragile, after the winter hibernation, juniper. It is best to do this at the end of April, when the earth is already slightly warmed and the root system begins to receive food. Choose a cloudy day so that the plant gradually adjusts to changing conditions.

Diseases and parasites

Juniper has a fairly strong wood, resistant to rotting and the harmful effects of insects. But despite this, plants have common diseases and pests that need to be addressed.

Juniper pests

Ephedra suffers from insect invasion, perhaps even stronger than deciduous trees. After all, the needles grow for many years, and if they are damaged, the plant takes on an untidy and morbid appearance. Therefore, it is so important to detect and prevent the spread of parasites in a timely manner.

  • A small herbivorous insect with complete metamorphosis. Severe damage to the juniper is caused by the sawworm. It is easy to find them. They are green in color, similar to caterpillars, but have eight pairs of legs, three dark bands are visible along the body, a brown head with two simple eyes.

  • Female parasites begin flying in late summer or early fall. They lay their eggs inside the twigs and needles. In the places of such oviposition, slight yellowing and small cuts can be noted. The larvae appear in May-June, live in nests and spread by migrating. It damages the internal tissues of shoots and needles, completely destroying one branch, passing to the other. The life cycle of the larvae is 20-30 days, after which they crawl to the ground under the plant and pupate, and in the fall the females lay eggs again.
  • As measures against corona treated in May and June of biological products, such as "Lepidocide" chemical contact insecticides, for example "Korbofosom" and drugs such as "Decis", "Kinmiks" or "Benzofosfat". Spray should be twice, with a 2-4 week break.
  • In addition, it is necessary to shake the damaged branches from time to time and loosen the trunks, and in June and July it is possible to water the juniper with a weak solution of ash.
  • These are small green or brown insects that live in colonies. They appear in early spring from eggs laid in the autumn period.

  • They settle mainly on young shoots and feed on the juice of the plant, depriving it of vital forces. The peak of aphid activity is in June. When a plant suffers severe damage, the aphid colony migrates to a growing number of species. It is necessary to carry out regular inspections on juniper plantations and at the first signs of the appearance of aphids to take active control measures.
  • You can fight aphids using various methods. For example, harvest aphids by hand or spray infected plants with plain water under pressure. Or to spray juniper with preparations such as "Fitoverm" or "Carbophos", twice, after 10-15 days. Help and folk remedies - infusions of garlic, bitter pepper, wormwood or tomato leaves.
  • There are plants that repel aphids. For example, under the juniper you can plant perennial flowers from the astroid family - pyrethrum. They not only help get rid of the pest, but also decorate the garden.

Reduce the mole

  • A kind of butterfly pests that damage plant needles. It received such a name due to a way of a feed of caterpillars which minify needles - eat out an internal part, leaving an intact cuticle.

  • The measures of struggle include the use of the solution of the drug "Decis", which is sprayed with juniper 2 times, with an interval of 15-20 days. It is also necessary, in late autumn, to swap corridors and carry out soil cultivation in the circles near the trunk, such a measure leads to the death of most of the pupae of moths during the winter. In addition, it is necessary to clean the logs from the old bark, and the damaged damage should be covered with soda.

The acicular tick

  • A small insect is yellow, red, green or white. Infection with the tick is manifested in the increase in the tips of the needles. For destruction, the drugs "Karate", "Akarin" or "Neoron" are used. Treatment should be done in early May.
  • In addition, an effective measure can be irrigation of the juniper crown with warm water, with the addition of laundry soap, several times a season. You can use and folk remedies, such as, infusions of tobacco, horseradish or garlic leaves - spray the plant after 5-7 days, for a month.

Juniper crust

  • Small insect, pale yellow, oblong or round. Nest in cones or on needles and feed on plant juice, which leads to slow growth, and sometimes the death of junipers. The damage brings both larvae and female insects.
  • It is necessary to carry out regular inspection of plants and at the first signs of damage to conduct immediate combat. Pest control measures include the use of various insecticides: Carbofos, Aktara, Fosbetsid or Actellyk.
  • It is also necessary to wash the plants for a week, with a weak solution of laundry soap, without forgetting then to rinse the juniper with clean water. Heavily damaged branches need to be cut and burned.

Juniper diseases

All diseases to which juniper is exposed can only be cured if measures are taken over time. The greatest damage to conifers is caused by fungal spores. Experts have identified more than 40 different types of pathogenic fungi, which are the causative agents of juniper diseases.

Fusarium (withered tracheomycosis)

  • The causative agent of the disease is the Fusarium fungus. The disease manifests itself in yellowing or redness of the needles, thinning crown and subsequent shrinking of the plant. The disease begins with the root system, fungal spores penetrate the internal tissues and block access to nutrients. Juniper roots turn brown and then die off. The fungus inflicts the most damage on young plants.

  • As soon as the first signs appear, all diseased specimens should be removed in a timely manner. As a preventive measure, before planting, the root system of plants should be treated with one of the following fungicidal preparations: Vitaros, Bactofit, Phytosporin-M or Maxim. The soil under the plants is poured with a solution of the drug Alirin-B or Gamair, and the plant itself can be sprinkled with a solution of Fundazol.

  • The cause of the disease is the Alternaria fungus, which affects the root system of young plants. As a result, the needles acquire a brown tint, and a dark plaque appears on the branches.
  • As a rule, the disease results in a thickened planting of seedlings. To combat the fungus, it is necessary to destroy all affected branches, disinfect the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate and cover with fumes from the garden. In spring, spray a blend of Bordeaux or "Abiga-Peak".

Juniper rust

  • The most common disease of the plant is "rust", the causative agent of the disease is the Gymnosporangium fungus and many of its species.

  • Its peculiarity lies in the fact that for a full-fledged development it needs a change of residence. Initially in May-June, the mushrooms settle on fruit trees, and only in mid-summer the mature spores are transferred by the wind to the juniper.
  • As a control measure, a solution of "Arceride" is used, which must be sprayed on the diseased plant every 10 days, until complete recovery. Also spraying with a solution of the Bordeaux liquid and disinfecting the wounds formed with copper sulfate. Also, it is not necessary to combine plant juniper with fruits and berries. All diseased plants must be destroyed. If the juniper is partially damaged, then in the spring cut out the infected branches and burn them.
  • Recognizing rust is pretty simple - orange, slightly convex spots on plant needles or stems. Cracking, from the place where dust appears - rust fungus spores. The disease must be treated immediately, as soon as it is found, otherwise it can lead to the death of shoots, the weakening of the general condition of the juniper and its death. Spores appear in May-July, long rain and low air temperature can contribute to the spread of the disease.

  • It is a disease caused by Herpotrichia or Lophodermium fungi. The disease is characterized by a change in the color of the needles, its death and falling off. More intensively, the disease develops with high humidity and thickening of the crown.
  • Especially the parasitic fungus on young plants. Control measures include pruning dry branches and burning them, as well as harvesting fallen pine needles. In the spring, you can spray the plant with Bordeaux liquid.

With proper care, even an old juniper will make a wonderful decor in the garden or indoor field, moreover, it is an excellent disinfectant - 1 hectare of juniper per day can clear the atmosphere of pathogenic organisms in a big city.


head: Sawfly is a name for the larvae of many species among the Hymenoptera which form the group of sawfly or symphysis (Symphyta). Their devastating larva is often called a false caterpillar because it will not give a butterfly but an insect related to wasps.

Apparent damage: The leaves of the affected plants are devoured or deformed depending on the plant and the type of larva and eventually fall off.

Damage period: for the whole summer

The most sensitive plants: pink, spirea, currant, iris,

Favourable conditions: hot temperatures that cause insect proliferation.

Related Articles Video: De-greening - Tentredine del Frassino.

My pond is relatively sunny so for good oxygenation I pierced a 1m PVC tube every 20cm and connected to the pump tube. The tube is placed flush with the water and the bubbles are many of my love fish.


SURINAME VEGETABLE EXTRACT 250 GR

Hydrogeo has always had a keen eye on the environment in which we live, focusing first of all on the well-being of the soil, respecting the natural life cycle of every living being.

Suriname is a balanced extract of medicinal plants containing stimulating and protective substances for plants.

Suriname is able to activate the natural defenses by creating an environment hostile to the attack of harmful insects such as aphids, phytophages and leaf miners, carpocapsa, cabbage, ceroplast, cydia, Colorado potato beetle, metcalfa, pear and laurel psylla, sawfly rose, vine moth and thrips.

Suriname has a milder action than pyrethrum, but has the advantage of being harmless for humans, for domestic and wild animals, for beneficial insects such as ladybugs and pollinating insects (eg bees).

Suriname is a totally natural product, obtained using innovative cold extraction techniques of the concentrated active ingredient, it does not harm beneficial insects.

Composition:


  • 100% aqueous extract of officinal plants
  • pH 4.5-5.0

Packaging: bottle of 250 gr

Doses and methods of use: Visible in the product image

For an optimal effect, the product should be used preventively every 20 days. In treatments use every 7 days. Although it is not subject to a shortage period, it is advisable not to use on edible fruits or leaves in the period close to harvest. To improve its effectiveness, it is advisable to add 100 g of soft soap and 100 g of potassium silicate every 10 liters of water.


Video: Come Eliminare Pidocchi e Tutti i Parassiti Dalle Rose Con Aglio e Varecchina


Previous Article

Is Organic Better – Learn About Organic Plants Vs. Non-Organic Plants

Next Article

Rhubarb: Simple Planting Tips and Breeding Techniques