I rarely go to the country because of work. From the moment I bought the plot, I have been interested in ways that allow me to grow crops without continuous plant care.
The black covering material has become my lifesaver. With him I plant cabbage and other plants. I am going to supply all the beds with mulch in the form of a black shelter.
Its advantages are obvious:
First, I prepare the ground: I bring in humus for looseness and universal fertilizer, I spill the garden bed before covering it.
I choose the covering material with a density of at least 80, I cover the entire area of the garden with it. For fixing I use a construction stapler when there is something to attach to. And once she pinned the material to the ground with dowels for thermal insulation.
Any cabbage is suitable for planting in such a ridge: white cabbage, Peking cabbage, cauliflower. The ripening period also does not matter - everything grows.
For each plant, I make a cruciform incision in the covering material. I dig a hole in the soil and place a bush of seedlings in it. When digging in the roots, I make sure that the corners of the incision are firmly pressed by the earth, not bulging. I plant in the center of the ridge in one row, keeping a distance of 50 cm between plants.
After planting, I water the plants again, already on top of the covering material,.
Cabbage planted on a covering material does not need to be hilled. In the soil, which always remains loose, the root system breathes well and develops.
For me, it is important to maintain moisture in the soil for a long time, since there is no way to water often.
Insects of all stripes stopped attacking cabbage, only slugs remained, against which I sprinkle a special agent in granules over the covering material. On this, the war on pests is considered over.
I recommend planting cabbage on a cloudy day or at sunset, so the plants will not experience additional stress from direct sunlight.
It is advisable to choose a place for the garden so that a shadow falls on it at any time of the day - even cabbage is hard to endure in the sun all day.
Along the edges of the cabbage ridge, you can plant basil seedlings, onions on greens, and much more in a similar way.
It is not necessary to plant plants with seeds under black covering material - they will be lost, they will not germinate.
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In August, mid-season (pickling) varieties already wind their heads well. Late (dead) varieties have formed the required leaf rosette, and only now they have to switch to the formation of heads of cabbage. During this period, cabbage does not need large doses of nitrogenous fertilizers. But phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium - these are the substances that will help to spin a strong juicy head of cabbage. What help does cabbage need in August?
Cabbage is a pond. She is always demanding on moisture in the soil. Due to the large leaves under the plants, the ground is always dry. And even rains sometimes cannot get to the roots and wet the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to water the cabbage so that the growth of the heads of cabbage does not stop. It is better not to use very cold water for watering. Cabbage doesn't like that.
If, when planting seedlings, the soil was not well filled with nutrition or the cabbage lags behind in development, then it must be fed. Dry fertilizer (1 tbsp of nitrophosphate, 1 tbsp of superphosphate, 1 tbsp of potassium sulfate) is mixed and scattered between rows per 1 sq.m. Fertilizers are preferable to apply on damp soil. Then it is necessary to loosen so that the fertilizers are underground and do not lie on the surface.
Late varieties can also be fed on leaves with magnesium sulfate (15 g per 10 l, per 10 square meters), which is necessary for feeding varieties intended for long-term storage.
Raking up the soil to the base of the plants down to the lower leaves encourages the regrowth of new additional roots. Young roots provide additional nutrition and better root resistance for heavy-weight heads.
The main enemies of cabbage are: aphids, caterpillars and slugs. If at the end of summer aphids are not very annoying, then caterpillars and slugs can destroy and spoil the entire crop at the moment. Inspecting cabbage plants will help prevent severe damage from them. So, the first 5.6 days with young caterpillars eating the upper leaves, you can easily fight (manual collection, tobacco dust, herbal infusions). The last resort is the use of "chemistry". But then they will not be reached, the caterpillars will crawl deep into the heads of cabbage. You can destroy the voracious "youth" by treating cabbage with a 0.3% solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride extract. This will help get rid of pests and feed the cabbage at the same time.
When to huddle cabbage after planting in the ground
Some cabbage varieties are planted in spring and some in mid to late summer. Depending on when the plants are planted, hilling is carried out. However, in both cases, the first hilling is carried out a week and a half after planting, and if the seedlings are elongated, then earlier. The second hilling is carried out three to four weeks after the first.
In most cases, the first hilling is carried out to maintain the thin legs of the plants, to avoid their curvature, the second to strengthen the root system of the seedlings, to prevent the heads of cabbage from sagging under the pressure of a strong wind under their total mass. Moreover, the second hilling helps to combat excessive soil moisture.
As for the hilling itself, it is carried out as follows: dry and calm weather is selected, the ground within a radius of 15-20 centimeters from the cabbage is scooped up to the plant and the entire height of the leg to the first leaves is covered with it. The procedure is carried out very carefully to exclude damage to the roots of the seedlings. In order for the cabbage to better endure hilling, it is possible to introduce special preparations - fertilizers - into the soil a couple of days before the work.
When to sprinkle cauliflower and broccoli
The agricultural technique of growing these types of cabbage has some differences. For example, for the entire period of growth of cauliflower, it is required to huddle it only three times. The first time - seven days after planting (and before that it is advisable to mulch the soil with dry grass or straw so that the soil remains loose and moist, and the seedlings can get stronger), the second - a month after the previous hilling, when the first inflorescences appear, the third - during the period of weight gain.
For the first time, broccoli cabbage must be spud the next day after planting seedlings in open ground (this procedure should be more similar to loosening), the next - after five days, and to a depth of at least five centimeters. In the future, hilling of these plants must be repeated every week, choosing dry weather for this. It is very important not to overdo it with these procedures; with each hilling, rake the soil no higher than it was in the previous hilling.
Caring for cabbage is not only abundant watering, pest control, but also feeding. At the beginning of growth, feed the cabbage with nitrogen fertilizers every 2 weeks. To do this, put 600 grams of manure in a bucket, pour 6 liters of water. Place the fertilizer in the sun for 2 days, then feed.
The early varieties from the end of June, and the later ones from the middle of July, start feeding with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Pour a glass of ash and a tablespoon of superphosphate into a bucket, fill with hot water. Give the plant liquid nutrition after 3 days. Remove the cabbage as it ripens, avoiding cracking.
Before planting cabbage in open ground with seedlings, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. It consists in choosing the right place, preparing the ridges.
In case of planting large volumes of seedlings, a special planter comes to the rescue. She in a semi-automatic mode allows you to place plants in the holes. This method is actively used on large farms. For sowing seeds for seedlings, seeders are used.
I believe that any cabbage does not need to be hilled.
There is an opinion that cabbage forms an additional root system, but, as my experience shows, the plant does not give new roots. It is also believed that in this way it will be easier for the cabbage to keep its "head". However, not all cultivars form a long stem. In my practice, only one head of cabbage once lay on its side, but this did not prevent it from growing until late autumn ...
As for feeding, during the growth process, I do not feed the cabbage with anything! Only when planting in the hole, I put vermicompost, ash, eggshells and good humus. If you immediately give good nutrition to your cabbage, then it will not need anything else. Of course, provided there is sufficient soil moisture.
There is one more important question: how to plant cabbage on spunbond? This is very easy to do. Spunbond can be spread both on cultivated, dug soil with applied fertilizers, and on almost virgin soil - soil with weeds and unburied soil. All the same, over the summer all the weeds will rot, and the worms will loosen the soil. I cut holes on the spanbond - "crosses" or "zeroes". I take the soil out of these holes and put it on a spunbond or in a bucket. I put fertilizers into the hole and plant seedlings, falling asleep on top of the soil that I took out initially. And of course, after planting, the seedlings must be watered.
By the way, this year I started using insect screens for cabbage. It protects plants from all butterflies, flies and moths. And I get excellent heads of cabbage without any hassle - without weeding, watering and worrying about pests!