Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

These berries are very popular among both gardeners and consumers. But for some summer residents, additional explanations and recommendations on the technology of growing these berries are still needed. Indeed, when planting strawberries and strawberries, it is necessary to take into account the time, rules of care and reproduction, feeding methods and much more. Let's try to answer the most common questions: "How to choose the right planting time?", "How to prepare the soil on the site?", "What fertilizers to use?", "Do strawberries (strawberries) need mulching?" and "How to properly care for young seedlings?"

Planting dates for strawberries (strawberries)

The time for planting berries depends on the climate of the area in which the summer cottage is located. In principle, you can transplant strawberry seedlings in spring and autumn. At this time, it has a sufficient number of outlets and whiskers, the air temperature at this time is not high, and the soil is sufficiently moist.

Experienced gardeners recommend planting strawberries in August. This month, dacha chores are slightly reduced, there is more time, and there is a lot of planting material. The bushes of berries have time to take root well in a new area before the cold weather, and then they easily endure the winter.

If there is only an open earthen area for planting seedlings, which is constantly blown from all sides by the wind, then it is worth postponing planting until spring. In such an area, and also with little snow in winter, seedlings may die.

Spring planting, depending on weather conditions, can be carried out from mid-April to early May. Young bushes will have a whole summer to settle down in a new place and gain strength.

Autumn planting in some regions is carried out from August to September, and sometimes until early October.

Preparing a bed for strawberries (strawberries)

Strawberry beds should be located in well-lit, sunny areas. The soil must be prepared in advance: get rid of all weeds, branches, stones. It is good if onions, garlic or root vegetables were grown in the beds before strawberries, and even better - siderates (for example, lupine). They need to be planted in the spring, and at the end of summer everything must be mowed and the area must be watered with a drug with effective microorganisms (EM is a drug).

A wide and deep hole is made for each young bush. The distance between them should be at least thirty centimeters, and the row spacing should be about forty centimeters. The soil from the holes must be mixed in equal proportions with compost and manure, and also add two glasses of ash. All this mixture is poured into the hole in the form of a small slide and a strawberry bush is planted in it.

Strawberry (strawberry) planting technology

Before planting, seedlings must be placed in a disinfecting solution in order to prevent diseases and pests (for example, garlic solution). You can hold the seedlings for some time in a solution - a growth accelerator or in ordinary water. Choose the time for planting seedlings in the evening or in cloudy weather.

No more than four healthy leaves are left on each bush, and the rest are disposed of. The root system is also pruned, it will be enough to leave a length of ten centimeters.

Each young strawberry or wild strawberry bush is placed on a prepared pile of soil, the roots are straightened and carefully sprinkled with earth, while spilling it with water. Wet roots will take root better and faster. Particular attention must be paid to the optimal positioning of the growth point above the soil. The "heart" of the seedlings should be at the same height with the surface of the garden bed. Its strong burial into the soil and excessive elevation above it will also be harmful.

Care of a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

Fruiting of new seedlings will occur only next year. In the first year, young seedlings must root thoroughly and reliably - this is the main task. To this end, on strawberry bushes, it is imperative to pick or cut off all the whiskers and flowers that appear.

And you just need to mulch new seedlings. As a mulching material, dry grass and fallen leaves, straw and sawdust will do. But the ideal option for berry bushes would be needles. It not only scares away harmful insects with its smell, but also helps to resist various diseases.

For the rapid and favorable growth of strawberry bushes, it is necessary to use various organic fertilizers containing easily assimilable nitrogen. Such feeding can be started as early as the third week after planting. You can use fertilizers purchased in specialized stores (for example, biohumus), or you can use fertilizers from your garden or farm. Infusion based on bird droppings or on the basis of herbs has proven itself well as a fertilizer for strawberries and strawberries.

We wish you excellent and bountiful harvests!

Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

In the previous articles of Dacha Councils, you and I understood the peculiarities of the propagation of strawberries (strawberries) and the methods of planting them.

The time has come for a close acquaintance with technology. When should you plant strawberries? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinters? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Do I need to mulch young plantings? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

Growing features

The technology of growing strawberries in the open field is characterized by its subtleties. Berry loves flat terrain. If the terrain has a slope, then it should be on the southwest side. It is important to remember that planting strawberries on a steep slope is not the best option for growing sweet berries. Also, experts strongly do not recommend planting berries in the lowlands. The main reason is the accumulation of damp air, due to which the ripening of the fruits is slow. Another unpleasant phenomenon is that the culture can get sick. The southern slopes are also not the best choice. This is explained by the fact that in such places the snow disappears faster, as a result - strawberries become unprotected against spring frosts.

What kind of soil does strawberry like? This berry loves moisture, but it does not like waterlogging either.

A good choice of planting berries for growing in the open field is to decide exactly on a place that is well protected from the winds.

It is important to remember that in case of frost, for example, -10 degrees, the roots partially freeze out. The berry winters well under a thick layer of snow. The soil for strawberries must be well protected from external negative factors. If the wind blows up the protective snow layer, you should not expect a rich strawberry harvest.

The secrets of growing strawberries say that you cannot grow this crop in the same place for more than four years in a row. The soil is depleted, all minerals necessary for healthy growth disappear. The soil for the berries becomes unsuitable. Growing strawberries outdoors requires changing the planting site every 2 years. Another reason why it is necessary to change the growing place more often is that various diseases accumulate in the soil, such as gray and white rot, wilt, etc. Special care - additional costs. Diseases can be of both fungal and viral nature. Such soil is harmful for strawberries. Frequent soil changes will ensure healthy growth of the berry and protect against many diseases.


♥ How to propagate strawberries with a mustache
♥ Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology
♥ Processing strawberries in spring
♥ Top dressing of strawberries in spring, summer, autumn
♥ How to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds


How to plant strawberries correctly to get a good harvest? I offer you four effective methods of planting strawberries, which have long proven themselves among gardeners.

Planting strawberries with freestanding bushes. Strawberry rosettes are planted one at a time at a distance of 45-60 cm. To prevent the plants from intertwining, the mustaches are regularly removed, thereby allowing the bushes to develop intensively and bear fruit abundantly.
Disadvantages of the method: laborious, frequent loosening of the soil is necessary, weed control, mulching and cutting off the mustache.
Advantages of the method: the berries are large due to a small number of bushes, each plant is ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of putrefactive diseases, planting material is saved.

Planting strawberries in rows In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 15-20 cm in one row, and a strip 40 cm wide is left in the aisles so that you can freely approach the plantings. As with growing strawberries in separate bushes, it is necessary to loosen the soil, remove mustaches and weeds.
Disadvantages of the method: the same as in the first.
Advantages of the method: strawberries planted in rows grow well and bear fruit for 5-6 years in one place.

Planting strawberries in nests With this planting method, one plant is planted in the center of the future nest and six more around it. The result is a hexagon with a distance between plants in the nest of 5-8 cm.The distance between the nests in one row should be 25-30 cm, and between rows 35-40 cm.
Disadvantages of this method: a lot of planting material is required. Advantages of the method: five more plants are planted than with traditional planting methods, which provides a large yield.

Carpet planting strawberries This is the easiest and cheapest way to plant. Its essence is that the mustache of strawberry bushes does not break off, thereby allowing the berry to grow independently over the entire allotted area. With such a compacted method of placing bushes, its own special microclimate arises in the surface layer, as well as a layer of plant mulch is formed by itself. This keeps weeds in check and keeps the soil moist.
Advantages of the method: it is convenient for those who do not often visit the country, berries rarely need watering, loosening and fertilization due to natural mulching.
Disadvantages of this method: over time, the berries may become smaller.

♥ How to propagate strawberries with a mustache

How did our grandmothers propagate strawberries? After the strawberry bushes have borne fruit, they "run" the garden, that is, they did not break off the mustache. And at the end of August, the strongest rooted rosettes were selected and transferred to a new place. Raise your hand for those who blindly follow grandma's method. Forest of hands!

But if you want to get high-quality seedlings, if you want to preserve all the varietal qualities of strawberries, if you need an excellent harvest from year to year, you need to act a little differently. How to properly propagate strawberries with a mustache, we will tell you today on the electronic pages of "Dacha Councils".

Why can't you take a mustache from fruit-bearing bushes?

The correct approach to breeding strawberries is as follows: the bush should produce either berries or a mustache. One out of two. If a grower takes a mustache from a freshly hatched strawberry bushes, he gets defective seedlings. The plant has already spent the bulk of the nutrients on ripening the berries, which means that its mustache will be much weaker than we would like.

In addition, forcing the bushes to "work on two fronts", the summer resident risks losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are depleted faster, the berries become smaller, the bushes are more likely to suffer from diseases, the yield of the beds is reduced by 20-30%.

Propagation of strawberries using uterine bushes

Correct propagation of strawberries begins with the selection of the so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all whiskers are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and wait for fruiting. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather the best, did not get sick and gave the largest berries, are marked with a sticker, a stick, a knot - whatever, if only it was noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them to a separate bed according to the scheme 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

Correct propagation of strawberries In the next year, on selected mother bushes, all the buds are removed, preventing flowering and, accordingly, the setting of berries.

Thus, not being able to produce seeds, the plants will put all their energy into vegetative propagation, that is, into the whiskers. Already in the first month of summer, the uterine bushes will begin to give a mustache, on which sockets will subsequently be tied. You need to leave only the largest, powerful mustache, and mercilessly cut off all the little things. The best option is to shorten the strawberry whiskers, leaving only one outlet on each, which is closest to the mother bush. But if you need a lot of seedlings, then you can also use the second sockets.

When the first roots appear on the sockets, there are two options for further actions:

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache Pin the rosettes to the ground, bury them a little in loose soil, and then water and care like any other seedlings.
Propagation of strawberries with a mustache Without separating the rosette from the mother bush, plant each in a separate pot, where it will develop its own root system.
Strawberry seedlings are planted in a new place in late July - early August, so that before the onset of the first frost, the plants have time to take root and get stronger. Therefore, two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the sockets with the mother bush is cut, giving the young plants time to get used to feeding on their own roots.

Propagation of strawberries by whiskers Uterine bushes can serve as a source of high-quality seedlings for two to three years. What's more, a two- or three-year-old strawberry produces a lot more whiskers than a first year. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the uterine bushes with young ones, having carried out the entire selection procedure again.

We wish you success and big harvests!

♥ Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

In the previous articles of "Dacha Councils", you and I understood the peculiarities of the propagation of strawberries (strawberries) and the methods of planting them.

The time has come for a close acquaintance with technology. When should you plant strawberries? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinters? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Do I need to mulch young plantings? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

Planting dates for strawberries (strawberries)

For the future excellent harvest of berries, first of all, high-quality seedlings are needed, and the best whiskers and rosettes appear in early spring or late summer, when temperatures are low and moisture is abundant.

Therefore, the optimal dates for planting strawberries in the Middle Lane are the periods from April 15 to May 5 and from July 25 to September 5. In the southern regions, spring planting begins in early March, and ends in autumn at the end of October.

When is it better to plant strawberries: in the spring or in the fall? In most areas and in most cases, the most successful option is the August planting of young strawberries. During this period, the gardener has more time, and there is a lot of planting material, and the weather, as a rule, is favorable for young bushes to take root, take root in a new place and safely endure the winter. But in open areas blown by all winds in areas with severe winters with little snow, it is better to be careful and postpone planting in the spring. Then the young bushes will have a whole summer to get stronger.

Preparing a bed for strawberries (strawberries)

Garden bed preparation
It is recommended to plant strawberries in well-lit areas where garlic, onions, root vegetables or legumes used to grow. It is very good if the bed for strawberries was chosen in advance and in the spring it was sown with green manure, which had already been mowed by August, and the bed was spilled with a solution of EM preparations. The best strawberry green manure is lupine.

In any case, before planting seedlings, the site must be cleared of weeds and the soil must be mixed. Strawberries are a rather "gluttonous" berry, so in addition to soil, compost, rotted manure or vermicompost, ash will be required to prepare the soil.

The holes for strawberry seedlings are made deep and wide. The distance between the holes is 30-50 cm. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. The soil taken out of the holes is mixed with the rest of the soil components in the following proportions: 1 bucket of soil, 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of compost, 2 glasses of ash. A small mound is made from the soil prepared in this way in the center of each hole.

Strawberry (strawberry) planting technology

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered, it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a growth biostimulator for a couple of hours. Before planting, some gardeners keep the bushes in a garlic infusion (150 ml. Garlic infusion per 10 liters. Water) to prevent "attacks" by pests.
Strawberry seedling roots
A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (it is advisable to remove the rest) and well-spread roots 10 centimeters in length (the extra centimeters must be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with "embankments" and the remains of the soil mixture. It remains only to set each bush on a mound so that the growth point (the so-called "heart") is at the same level with the surface of the garden, and the roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
Landing on a mound
Then, holding the bush, it is necessary to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done so that the contact between the roots and the ground is closer.
Freshly planted strawberry bush
It is imperative to ensure that the growth point is not too deep or too raised above the soil.
Landing dates

Care of a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and mustaches may appear in the young garden. Cut them off without pity! Now the main task of seedlings is rooting in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until next season.
Removing colors
Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw, and dried grass, and foliage, and rotted sawdust, etc. are suitable.

Two weeks after planting, young berries are fed. As a top dressing, you can use infusion of vermicompost (sold in stores), infusion of bird droppings or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic, contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to the rapid growth of young strawberries.

We wish you success and big harvests!

♥ Processing strawberries in spring

Spring processing of strawberries is one of the first things a summer resident does when he returns to his favorite area after a long winter. However, not everyone knows how to properly process strawberries in spring in order to save their own strength and increase the future harvest.

Do you need to remove old dried leaves? Should you remove the topsoil? How to treat strawberries from pests and diseases? What should be the first spring feeding of strawberries? The questions have been asked, so we will answer ...

Processing strawberries in spring

After the snow melts and the onset of the first warm days, old-school gardeners, armed with a flat cutter, a hoe and a shovel, proceed to the standard processing of strawberries "according to the textbook": they remove the top layer of the soil (after all, formidable pests live there), cut off the dried leaves (because the bushes should look beautifully), feed, loosen and sprinkle the soil, spray the bushes from pests. Processing strawberries in spring As a result, they get bare beds, which after the first hot sunny day are covered with a crust. And the crust must be loosened again, etc. etc.
So you can't do that? Why, you can. But such processing takes a lot of time and effort.

For those who feel sorry for the effort spent in vain, we offer a slightly different way of processing strawberry bushes.

So, here is a list of the main activities that need to be carried out in the spring on a strawberry garden:

1. Raking up mulch that has not rotted during the winter

2. Editing the sides of the garden

3. Top dressing with mineral or organic fertilizers

4. Initial treatment of strawberry bushes from diseases with chemicals or biological products

Cleaning and guidance of the "marafet"

We are sure that you mulch your strawberries with one of the suitable organic mulching materials, which means that after the winter, plant residues that did not have time to rot were left in the beds. They should be disposed of in a compost heap. The meaning of this procedure is that the soil covered with mulch warms up more slowly, and in order for the strawberry bushes to start growing faster, the earth must be warm. After getting rid of last year's mulch, you need to straighten the sides of the ridges so that they look neat, and the neighbor does not look at you as a lazy person.

Spring feeding of strawberries

Feeding strawberries in spring To stimulate the appearance of fresh green leaves, strawberry bushes can be fed. If you are not against the use of mineral fertilizers in the garden, then choose one of the options for complex feeding:

1 tbsp ammonium sulfate and 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water
1 tbsp nitroammophoska for 10 liters of water.
Supporters of organic farming feed strawberry beds with mullein infusion (1 part manure per 10 parts water) or chicken droppings (1 part manure per 12 parts water) or nettle infusion (a bucket of young nettle is poured with warm water and kept for 3-4 days).

Top dressing of strawberries is applied directly under the bush, avoiding the solution getting on the leaves.

Strawberry pest control and mulching

In early spring, before the flowering of strawberries, it is recommended to carry out treatment of bushes against pests. Those who are not afraid of chemicals spray plants with Taurus or Caesar preparations. For adherents of biological products, there are Fitoverm and Acrophyte. Just do not forget that drugs of biological origin are effective at temperatures above + 18 ° C.

Some gardeners prefer to control pests with plain water. The water must be heated to a temperature of 60-65 ° C and pour the strawberries on top with a watering can with a fine strainer. The main thing is that the water does not have time to cool down ahead of time and that it falls on the leaves more or less evenly. "Water treatments" not only help to get rid of pests, they also stimulate growth and facilitate the enlargement of berries.

Mulching strawberries in spring When the soil has warmed up well and the threat of return frosts has ceased to hang like a sword of Damocles over the summer cottage, strawberry ridges must be mulched again. Spruce and pine needles are best suited for this purpose. The fact is that such mulch plays the role of a kind of antiseptic - with it, strawberries are not afraid of any diseases. Straw mulch is also good, which allows moisture to pass through well and does not allow the berries to rot. True, slugs and other "gluttonous bellies" can take root in the straw, so coniferous mulch is considered number one for strawberries.

But what about old leaves? The old dried leaves will eventually disappear safely on their own, without our help, while at first they will “work instead of mulch”, protecting the soil from drying out and creating an optimal microclimate in the strawberry garden.

We wish you success and big harvests!

♥ Top dressing of strawberries in spring, summer, autumn

Not every gardener can boast of rich black earth soil on his site. Again, not every gardener, even if he decided to practice natural farming, is able to replace all his traditional beds with more fertile organic ones in one sitting. Especially when it comes to strawberries that have been growing in one place for several years.

In order not to be left in the season without real fragrant and sweet strawberries, many summer residents have to rely on top dressing. Today we will talk about when and what to feed strawberries for optimal growth, lush flowering and appropriate fruiting.

During the summer cottage season, strawberries are usually fed three times: in the spring, in the summer after the main harvest, and in the late summer or fall before winter preparation. The remontant strawberry is especially responsive to feeding; it must be fed at intervals of a week.

The first feeding of strawberries in spring

For the first time, strawberry bushes are fed in the spring, at the very beginning of the summer season, as soon as the snow melts and the weather is more or less warm. The first feeding is aimed at stimulating the growth of fresh shoots and leaves, therefore, it must contain nitrogen.

Recipes for spring feeding strawberries

1 tbsp ammonium sulfate and 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water
1 tbsp nitroammophos for 10 liters of water
1 part mullein to 10 parts water
1 part chicken manure to 12 parts water
Pour 1 bucket of nettle with warm water and keep for 3-4 days
30 drops of iodine, 1 teaspoon of boric acid, 1 glass of ash per 10 liters of water
3 grams of potassium permanganate, 0.5 tsp. boric acid, 1 tbsp. urea and 0.5 cups of ash per 10 liters of water
Pour 2/3 of a bucket of dried crusts, pieces, any remnants of rye bread with water and keep warm for 6-10 days. Then dilute with water three times
1 part whey (or any other fermented milk product) to 3 parts water.
Under each strawberry bush, it is necessary to pour 0.5-1 liters of liquid dressing, depending on the size of the bush.

Second feeding of strawberries

The second feeding of strawberries is carried out in the summer, towards the end of July after the main harvest of berries has been collected. It would seem why? The fact is that at this time the formation of new roots begins and flower buds are laid for the next season, so additional potassium and trace elements will not interfere with the plants.

Recipes for the second strawberry feeding

2 tbsp nitrophoska and 1 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water
2 tbsp potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water
1 glass of vermicompost per 10 liters of water is infused for a day, then diluted in half with water
100 grams of ash per 10 liters of water.
Under each bush, you need to pour about 0.5 liters of any of the above fertilizers. Alternatively, the ash can not be dissolved in water, but scattered directly under the bushes. After two weeks, it would be good to repeat the feeding: after all, at this time the plants need nutrition most of all.

The third feeding of strawberries in the fall

Top dressing for garden strawberries

The last third feeding of strawberries is recommended to be carried out in mid-September in dry weather, when the harvest has long been harvested, and the bushes are beginning to prepare for the coming winter. As a rule, young (one-year-old) plants especially need the third feeding in order to successfully overwinter.

Recipes for autumn feeding strawberries

1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 0.5 cups ash
1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 2 tbsp. superphosphate + 1 glass of ash
2 tbsp nitroammophoska, 30 grams of potassium sulfate and 1 glass of ash per 10 liters of water.
Each bush will have enough from 250 to 500 ml. such feeding.

For those who do not like mineral fertilizers at all and grow strawberries according to the rules of organic farming with mandatory mulching, we recommend feeding strawberries with vermicompost infusion four times a season. The first time in early spring, then before flowering, the third time during the ovary of berries and the last time after fruiting.

We wish you success and big harvests!

♥ How to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds

Not all summer residents dare to propagate strawberries with seeds. And this is understandable. No matter what the manufacturers of planting material write on the bright packages, growing strawberries from seeds is a troublesome business. The seeds sprout for a long time, and often the seedlings disappear altogether, they look fragile and small, you have to dive with tweezers to overmoisten the seedling soil is unacceptable, and even more so it is impossible to overdry ... So many worries!

Nevertheless, growing strawberries or strawberries from seeds has its advantages. If you want to improve your berry health, try new interesting varieties and are not afraid of any difficulties, go for it! And we will help you with useful advice ...

First of all, we advise you to pay attention to small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries. They are less capricious than strawberries, they are cheaper, and the chances of getting good seedlings are much greater. In the future, having gained experience, you will move on to growing large-fruited varieties.

Sowing dates of strawberry seeds for seedlings

Growing strawberries from seeds
You can plant strawberries for seedlings both in February and in April. Everything will depend on your conditions.

Anyone who is ready to provide strawberries with the lightest window sill or light up the shoots for 12-14 hours a day can safely sow seeds in early February and have the right to expect the first harvest of berries in the current season.

Well, for those whose windowsills are already occupied by tomatoes and peppers, it is not forbidden to plant strawberries in March or at the very beginning of April. Perhaps this season such bushes will not be able to bear fruit, but next year they will show themselves in all their glory.

Soil preparation for strawberry seedlings

Growing strawberry seedlings: sowing seeds
The main properties required for soil for strawberry seedlings are lightness and water permeability. To achieve the desired quality, some gardeners advise sifting the potting mix through a sieve. The following mixtures are best suited for strawberry seedlings:

Option 1: 3 parts of garden soil, 3 parts of humus or compost, 1/2 part of wood ash.
Option 2: 4 parts vermiculite, 3 parts peat, 3 parts sand.
Option 3: 1 part coconut fiber, 1 part humus or vermicompost.
Option 4: 3 parts sand, 5 parts humus.
Option 5: 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of sand, 1 part of peat.
Option 6: 3 parts of sand, 1 part of garden soil, 1 part of humus.
In order to disinfect the soil as much as possible, it is either calcined, or frozen, or spilled in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Seed stratification and sowing for seedlings

How to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds
That is why summer residents do not like to tinker with strawberry seedlings so much! Because of the notorious stratification, which in this case cannot be bypassed.

Stratification is the creation of seed germination conditions close to natural. The strawberry seeds that we have on our hands, roughly speaking, are asleep. Growth blockers work to the full extent - special substances that prevent seed germination before the onset of a favorable period. The gardener's task is to artificially create all the conditions for the seeds so that they quickly "come out of hibernation" and start growing.

How to stratify strawberry seeds? You can go the traditional way and keep the seeds for a week on a damp cloth in the refrigerator, and then gently sow into the ground. And you can "kill two birds with one stone" by combining stratification with sowing.

It is most convenient to sow strawberry seeds in plastic containers with a lid, having previously made several drainage holes in their bottom. Such a container is filled with a soil mixture, not reaching the edge for a couple of centimeters. Moisten the soil slightly so that small seeds do not sink too deep, and then distribute the seeds evenly over the surface. They are not covered with earth, and the two or two and a half centimeters remaining to the top of the container are filled with snow.Close the lid of the container and send it to the refrigerator for two weeks.

In the refrigerator, the snow will gradually melt and go into the soil, dragging the seeds along with it. This is approximately what happens in natural conditions in spring. This is exactly what we wanted!

After the expiration of the stratification period, the container with the planted seeds is placed on the windowsill. There is no need to open the lid yet, watering is usually not required either (there is usually enough moisture from melted snow). But it is not forbidden to arrange additional lighting.

After 10-15 days (in some varieties in a month), the first shoots appear.

Care of strawberry seedlings before planting in the ground

Growing strawberry seedlings: first shoots
With the emergence of shoots, the box lid must be periodically opened (or holes must be made in it). It is not recommended to open young seedlings immediately and permanently in order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture. Constant moisture (but not waterlogging) of the soil is one of the key points in growing strawberry seedlings.

When sowing seeds in a plastic transparent container with a lid, it is very convenient to monitor the moisture level. If the lid of the container looks a little foggy, everything is fine if there is so much condensation that it collects in drops on the lid, then there is an excess of moisture in the soil, and it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings if the lid is dry, then it is time to water.

Strawberries are watered very carefully: either with drops on the walls of the container, or from a fine-jet sprayer, or with a medical syringe. The best water for irrigation is melt. If there are concerns about fungal infections that may be dormant in the soil, you can add Fitosporin diluted according to the instructions to the irrigation water.

Approximately 3-4 days after germination, the lid can be opened permanently.

With the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, strawberry seedlings dive into individual cups. The procedure is not the easiest, because the plants are still tiny, fragile, with an elongated stem. Many people use tweezers to gently hold each blade of grass. When diving, it is necessary to ensure that the root does not bend upwards. First, the seedling is sprinkled with earth to the same depth, later, when the seedlings take root in a new place, add earth to the cotyledon leaves, without filling the growing point. The entire long stem of strawberry seedlings will be buried underground and give additional roots.
Growing strawberry seedlings at home
Some gardeners simply "huddle" the sprouts, raking up the soil so as to cover the long stem, leaving the growth point and leaves above the ground, and picking is done later, with the appearance of 3-4 pairs of true leaves. In this case, the seedlings will be much stronger, but there may be a problem with the interlacing of the roots. The roots of seedlings can be so intertwined with each other that you have to rinse them with water and carefully (using a fork) untangle them.

After picking, caring for strawberry seedlings is reduced to constant monitoring of the humidity level. In addition, you can harden the seedlings by taking them out to the balcony at stable temperatures above zero. You do not need to feed strawberry seedlings until they are planted in the ground.

Where to get seedlings in the summer

In the summer, little rooted whiskers are formed, but if you water and care for the seedlings in a timely manner and with high quality, then you will receive seedlings in full. Well, if it so happens that the outlets are not enough for reproduction, contact specialized nurseries that multiply planting material.

When planting strawberries, the following methods are used:

  1. The two-line landing is considered the most popular, taking into account the distance between the ribbons - 70 centimeters, between the lines - 30 centimeters, in a row - 20 cm
  2. One-line fit provides the following distances - between lines - 70 centimeters, in a row - 20 cm.

If your site is located in a lowland, then planting strawberries should be carried out in the ridges. The ridges should be built with a width of 70–80 centimeters, and between the bushes, intervals of 20–25 cm should be observed. Between the ridges, paths are laid, about 30–40 centimeters wide.


Garden strawberries are truly unique in terms of the content of vitamins and nutrients. They contain: vitamins - A, E, the whole group B, C, H, P, PP, beta-carotene trace elements - selenium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, iron, sulfur, iron, iodine, manganese, zinc, copper , silicon, boron, fluorine, germanium, molybdenum, cobalt, vanadium, nickel, chromium, important organic acids, sugars, antioxidants.

To replenish the lack of these substances in the body, it is enough for a person to eat 300 g of fresh berries per day.

To obtain a full-fledged bountiful harvest, the correct planting of strawberries on the site is of great importance.

Strawberry planting scheme

Strawberry planting scheme

As we said, there are two ways to plant strawberries in the spring, thanks to them, they distinguish similar patterns.

And so, the following can be distinguished strawberry planting schemes:

Let's take a closer look at them.

Two-line strawberry planting schemes provide for the presence of several ribbons, the distance between which is sixty to seventy centimeters. In the tapes, lines are distinguished, the distance between which is about thirty centimeters. The distance in the row is fifteen to twenty centimeters.

One-line strawberry planting schemes provide for a distance between the lines of about seventy centimeters, the distance in a row is fifteen to twenty centimeters.

In addition to the fact that the correct planting of strawberries provides convenience when caring for plants, it allows strawberries to develop normally and even somewhat reduces the possibility of strawberries becoming infected with diseases or pests of strawberries. Note that remontant strawberries are less prone to various diseases, especially some of its varieties, as well as strawberries grown from seeds.

As you can see planting strawberries in spring not at all difficult, the main thing is to acquire high-quality planting material.

Pavlenko Tatiana, member of the editorial board Sobcor of the independent Internet publication "ATMAgro. Agroindustrial Bulletin"

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