Goosefoot Bon-Henri is a rare vegetable, or rarely cultivated, almost completely abandoned. The plant is endemic to certain regions of France, especially mountainous. Its port is erected. The plant produces tall stems up to 70 to 80 cm. Its leaves are triangular, ribbed and well drawn, they are slightly powdery below. The flowers, very small, are grouped in spikes, they are yellow-green in color. It is rather for the leaves that the goosefoot is cultivated. You can use it in salads - prefer young leaves - or cook it cooked like spinach or sorrel. Young stems and flowers can also be cooked, steamed or English style. They are then eaten with mayonnaise or with vinaigrette.
Chenopodium bonus-henricus linnaeus.
• Family : chenopodiaceae - chenopodiaceae
• Cycle: perennial (root)
• Hardiness: rustic
• Foliage : obsolete
• Exposure : partial shade - shade
• Ground : Humid and always fresh
• Harbor : Upright stems
• Rooting: roots
• Origin: Europe
• Health & nutrition: Anti-anemic, depurative, diuretic, laxative, nutritious.
• Vitamin: The Bon-henri goosefoot is rich in vitamin A, vitamin B1 and B2, C and PP.
• Mineral salts : Calcium, iron and phosphorus
• Crop rotation: 5 years in place and 5 years before returning to the same place.
• Toxic: No
• Honey plant: no
• Cold resistance: -18 ° C
• Interview : easy
• Height: up to 80 cm
• Very easy to grow.
• Almost no illnesses.
The Bon-Henri goosefoot bears his name in homage to King Henry IV. It produces long rather thin stems sometimes striated. The leaves have long petioles. Usually the flowers develop at the top of the stems or in the leaf axils.
• Sow in the ground, in the fall or in the spring.
• Sow under cover, in the nursery, preferably in the fall.
• Loosen the ground on a small height of spade.
• Sow in place, spacing the rows 40 cm apart.
• Cover the seeds with potting soil.
• Water and keep cool.
• When the seedlings have 5 leaves ...
• Keep the strongest plants and thin out every 40 cm.
• Sow clear in a box.
• Transplant in the ground without the plants carrying 4 or 5 leaves.
• Generally sheltered seedlings take best when done in the fall.
• In autumn when your seedlings have 4 to 5 leaves
• Planting of young plants is also possible in spring, but autumn is a better period, because autumn then winter strengthens the strain (root development). In fact, the plant will recover more strongly the following spring.
• Always fresh and humus.
• Loosen the soil, about half the height of the spade, about 15-20 cm deep.
• Improve the soil with compost and planting soil.
• Take the seedlings with a little potting soil to transplant them into the ground.
• Allow a planting distance of 40 cm between each plant.
• Tamp down without damaging the roots.
• Bon-Henri Goosefoot Verbena can be multiplied by division of the strain.
• Place the divisions (splinters) every 40 cm.
• Generally the recovery is assured.
• Divide and replant in the spring.
• From June to September.
• Harvest from April to October-November, before the big frosts.
• Harvest small leaves in the long run as needed.
• In summer, the flavors of the plant are stronger, favor an early harvest.
• Hoeing and weeding
• Watering in case of drought: Not too much water but always cool soil.
• In the event of severe drought, mulching is recommended.
• Cut : pinch the flower stalks as soon as they appear to promote leaf development.
• Only one known variety.
• In the vegetable garden, Bon-Henri goosefoot goes well with all other vegetables.
• In the garden : in the vegetable garden.
• Without garden: In a large pot, it is possible.
Soil and Watering
Foot size (WxH)
between the feet
partial shade to shade
In case of drought (fresh soil)
Light and humus soil
0.8m x 0.40cm
Planting / sowing period
Fall and spring
april to september
Is an organic and productive vegetable garden possible in the mountains, despite a short season and difficult weather? Yes, answer the authors of this work, supporting solutions: choice of the display of the vegetable garden, creation of low walls or hedges, protection of plants with frames, greenhouses or tunnels at the beginning or end of the season, development of the slope. .
They present more than 60 vegetables, aromatics and berries and specify for each the cultivation calendar to follow according to the temperature of germination, the time of seed emergence, the time of sowing. by privileging of course the early and resistant varieties.
To do this, they rely on their experience, acquired in particular in the gardens of the Living Earth center at an altitude of 800 meters, and on the numerous testimonials from amateur gardeners located in the Alps, the Pyrenees and the Jura.
The specificities of the mountain climate
Special climatic conditions: Why is it colder in Mountain than in the plain? - Important differences - The wind - The snow - The greatest danger, the gel - Summer weather problems
The climate change in Mountain : The migration of wild plants - More of pests
Create and organize your garden
Long live the microclimate! : Walls and low walls - Essential windbreaker : the country hedge
Of amenities precious in Mountain : Frame - Greenhouse
Prepare your garden
The soil preparation
Prepare and use your compost : Compost: it is easy and it pays big - The different methods - The principles - A little practice - The contributions to be made
Nettle and comfrey : precious auxiliary plants
Green manures : The stolen culture - The perennial culture
Cultivate your vegetable garden almost all year round
Of cash and varieties suitable for Mountain
The key moment: spring: Temperatures of germination - The forcing sails - Small tunnel for crops in the ground - Weed, weed, mulch
Sowing and transplanting, specific constraints
From summer to fall: Keep humidity - Weather and watering - The summer sowing. and fall, why not? - Collect your seeds
Maintain and care for your vegetable garden
Respect the ground: Avoid excess nitrogen - Make sure good crop rotation
Plants accomplices. and companions! : Ensure a natural balance around the vegetable garden - Practice associations - Introduce the flowers in the vegetable garden
Protect and. treat wisely: pests - The diseases
After the harvest : From the cellar to the attic - From the kitchen to the dining room?
Annual vegetables in the mountain garden - Practical sheets: how does it work?
Garlic - Eggplant - Beetroot - Swiss chard (chard or perry) - Cardoon - Carrot - Celery - Curly chicory and escarole - Wild chicory - Broccoli cabbage - Brussels sprout - Cabbage - flower - Head cabbage (cabbage and Savoy) - Kohlrabi - Cucumber and pickle - Squash, pumpkin, pumpkin. - Zucchini, patisson - Shallot - Endive - Spinach - Fennel - Bean - Shelling bean - Green bean - Lettuce - Lamb's lettuce - Sweet corn (or sweet corn) - Turnip - Onion - Leek - Pea - Pepper and chili - Potato - Radish, black radish, Asian radish and summer radish - Tomato
Goosefoot Bon-Henri - Perpetual spinach - Sorrel - Dandelion - Rhubarb - Jerusalem artichoke
Dill - Basil - Chives and scallions - Tarragon - Lovage or perpetual celery or mountain ache - Mint - Oregano - Parsley - Rosemary - Arugula - Savory - Sage - Le thyme - lemon verbena
Caseille - Blackcurrant - Strawberry - Raspberry - Redcurrant - Gooseberry - Mulberry - Blueberry
Authors : Rémy Bacher - Yves Perrin
Collection : Expert advice
Thematic : Organic garden
Sub-theme : In the vegetable garden!
Description : 208 pages (15 x 21 cm).
For your purchases of untreated seeds, you will find in our shop: untreated vegetable seeds, untreated seeds of fruit trees, seeds of aromatic plants and vegetables, untreated seeds of tomatoes, seeds of rare cacti and seeds of succulents, seeds of flowers for the garden and seeds of houseplants, seeds of bananas and seeds of aquatic plants, seeds of carnivorous plants, seeds of trees of our climates and of elsewhere and seeds of flowering shrubs for the garden or seeds to grow in bonsai, all untreated. Finally, you will find the spores of the rarest and most extraordinary tree ferns known. Le Comptoir des Graines has a studied range of germination accessories such as mini greenhouses, tablecloths and heating cables made from ecological raw materials and substrates suitable for your seeds.
We also offer you lots of free tips for germinating your seeds and caring for these unique plants. Clear explanations, a glossary and technical guides on our blog, will accompany you throughout the process. Dormancy and cold stratification will soon have no secrets for you.
Explanations and rules to follow
First of all, mulching your crops and plantations allows you to use green waste from the garden such as mowing lawns, tree leaves, small crushed branches from pruning trees. This will prevent you from going back and forth to the recycling center because this waste cannot go to the compost except in small quantities, and then you will feed your crops, you will further stimulate living beings in the soil (worms, bacteria, etc.) and numerous insects. auxiliaries, you will protect the soil humus ...
Avoiding bare earth is a priority because otherwise it will quickly become covered with weeds that you will have to weed but in addition, it will be the object of compaction, erosion and beating, that is to say training waterproof crust. On the contrary, mulch dampens rain falls and retains all its permeability to the soil with regard to water and air, for the greater good of plant roots.
When the soil is covered with mulch, it dries out much less quickly, water evaporation is much slower, especially in summer, which will save you water but also the frequency of your watering. In addition, during winter, thanks to mulch, vegetables and shrubs are more resistant to frost.
Maintenance chores are thus much less frequent: hoeing and weeding for limited weeding, restricted watering, tillage preparatory to sowing and planting made easier ...
In addition to green waste from the woody garden (dead leaves, crushed twigs, dry stems, etc.) or tender (clippings, pruning in green, vegetable garden waste, etc.), you can use commercial vegetable mulches (flax or hemp flakes, bark pine, buckwheat hulls…) or minerals (slate, pozzolana, shells…).
Intended to increase the number of islands of freshness and greenery in the city, this measure is aimed at all the inhabitants of Périgueux.
Because our streets too often lack greenery and freshness, the city of Périgueux has made an exemplary decision. Since September 30, residents have been allowed to plant vegetables or flowers in urban areas. Explanations.
This choice was made by the new municipal team. The idea? Distribute greening permits to those who request them.
Delphine Labalis, mayor of Périgueux, cited by France Blue :
“The permit to revegetate is simple. This is a possibility for residents to be able to plant trees in front of their homes, in their neighborhood, in their street (...) I want to have a climbing plant along the electric pole in front of my house, I ask. I want to have a flower bed in which I can put vegetables to share with my neighbors, I ask. "
You get it, anyone can now green their street, all you have to do is ask. In return, the city's technical services will do what is necessary to help carry out the project.
“We will come and disburse part of your sidewalk so that you can carry out these plantings. And if we do not have the possibility of lowering the sidewalk, because it is not wide enough or because there are passing networks, we will offer you planters. "
The only condition for accessing this permit is to undertake to maintain the plantation (s).
The city of Périgueux, on its website:
“Like what is already done in other (large) cities, these blocks also provide a new way of sharing public space. Sowing, cultivating plants, aromatic plants, generates informal and friendly exchanges with the other inhabitants of his neighborhood. "
By involving residents in the greening of the streets, Périgueux can count on the strength, imagination and energy of the collective. Well seen.
The cutting consists of obtain new roots by taking a twig on a mother plant, it is an interesting way when the reproduction of the seeds is not easy.
For a gardener looking for an edible landscape, he preferred honey shrubs, those giving small fruits, and aromatics. However, cuttings are not always successful. Pome and stone (half-stem / stem) fruit trees, for example, will take root better by planting 1-2 year old scions in October-November (a 1-2 year old sapling has 90% over chance to take back a tree in clod planted in any season), we will then get our supplies from the local nurseryman and, if possible, we will favor native plants.
Cuttings in water particularly suitable for green plants.
The majority of cuttings are made in summertime by taking twigs of 5 to 8 cm long. We cut the base of a branch that we cut just below a node, we remove all the leaves to keep only the top ones and we can cut the top ones in two, to limit evaporation. .
The " DIY containers and substrates ”of cuttings: we transplant in a small bucket or a honeycomb culture plate rather deep, favoring a "light substrate" and well draining, homemade if possible: 1/3 garden soil, 2/3 mature compost (to replace the special multiplication soil), 1/3 sand (to replace vermiculite). We will place balls of clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pots separated by a burlap or a recovered kraft. We will water once to settle and to promote the appearance of the roots, we will just spray to keep moist without soaking (otherwise root rot). It takes between 10 and 30 days to reveal roots.
As an experiment, the cuttings of indoor green plants (papyrus, begonia, misery, ficus, arum, chlorophytum, etc.) in water or by "leaves" directly placed on a substrate are easier to start and understand this method.
- The "Stem cuttings" or "Leafy twigs":
It is taken from twigs of low-woody shrubs - they form wood in adulthood on the bases of the stems. This is done on the majority of deciduous, persistent shrubs. We cut in mid and late summer when the stems lignify or harden, the sections will 10 to 20 cm. They should be buried at 3 cm at the level of the preserved leaves, after having eliminated all the leaves and keeping only 3 leaves.
"Aoutées cuttings", also called heel cuttings, which are intended for conifers, elderberries and vines, are made at the same time.
- The "Head cuttings" or "herbaceous":
Young soft stems with tender tissues, such as impatiens, begonias, fuchsias, geraniums, etc. are taken. perennials and on aromatics: mint, lemon balm, etc. The sections will be between 5 and 10 cm. Only 4-5 leaves are kept around the terminal buds. These cuttings can be done as soon as end of May-beginning of June. For perennials and aromatics, I sometimes prefer the "Root divisions".
- The "Dry wood cuttings":
They are intended for all woody deciduous flowering shrubs but also and above all to a much of the berry.
They are carried out in autumn. The wood is not dry, but in winter rest, one thus takes at the beginning of the winter (15 days after the fall of the leaves) of the sections of 10 to 20 cm long and 5 mm thick and placed obliquely in sand or under a pile of dead leaves. From the beginning of March, we replant in pots containing a light and draining substrate to begin the process of cuttings.
- group them together in the same jar or bucket, by three to save space
- "stem cuttings" and "houseplants" appreciate heated micro-climates such as mini greenhouses (photo opposite) or a micro-nursery which will be able to accommodate the “dry cuttings” and stratification of the pits. Permaculture design offers us an interesting model.
- We can very well make these cuttings in recovered water bottles / cut as for seedlings
- Exhibition: half shade and not all day and near a window
- Twigs for cuttings are taken rather in the morning, in the waning moon
- Thehormone is better but not mandatory. It is even to be avoided for head cuttings intended for soft plants, some speak of willow leaves pounded to create a natural hormone
- We sprinkle to seal (tamp) the cutting, the first time after that it will be just spray / spray to keep moist
- Therooting starts at after 1 month, as soon as the stem leaves
- If there is no substrate at hand, the cuttings can be done in potatoes consumption limit we bring in the cutting of 1 cm. We can leave them outside, so we will be careful to place the cutting and the potato, in a bucket and ideally protect with a straw-type cover.
The root division is better suited than the cutting for the family of perennial plant like the Aster, Marguerite, Sedum, etc. At vegetable garden for the family of so-called perpetual vegetables - chive plants, lovage, mint, wild garlic, lemon balm, rhubarb. To be avoided, however, for certain aromatics such as lavender, rosemary, sage, thyme, verbena which can also be cut into heels, between July and August. The family of grasses, for example, bamboo supports this type of reproduction well, like plants with rhizomes which are cut with a knife during the summer of the Iris type. Finally, some grasses such as "Stipa tenuissima" can divide up to 5 times!
The moment ? At start or at the late spring, if it is not yet too hot and before the cold weather. We divide every 5 years, if necessary for rejuvenate a massif. For the houseplants it happens done all year round, when we divide, we repot.
What if we did not find a location before final planting ? Young flakes / seedlings can be planted directly in the ground or repot them for 2-4 weeks in a greenhouse, micro-greenhouse or near a south-facing wall (semi-shade) before final planting.
Layering works very well with strawberries, those runners that you can endlessly divide and cut to give. The flexible seedlings of a fig tree twist easily. They will then have to be buried and kept in a salvaged pot or PVC pipe that will be cut, to offer or plant elsewhere.
The moment ? At root recovery, during the month of November.
They are natural for certain species, as for this old tree: a cypress located in the garden of the Meudon observatory.
At vegetable garden, we harvest them during September / October for the following year, we can start with tomatoes, it's quite simple.
In the orchard, we can collect fruit stones consumed and make a stratification. Stratification is intended to speed up the natural cycle of germination, for planting in early spring.
Click on the image for more info at AtmosVert
The seeds that are collected and washed to get rid of the pulp can be placed in wet sand (if possible from a river) outside in terracotta pots placed in the north (in the shade) and covered in the goal to protect them from rodents, from November to allow throughout the winter season and let the cold act on them and from February. The seeds will then be taken out after 6 to 12 weeks in
checking regularly if they germinate.
*Note: In an orchard, the accumulation of low temperature is important for a good flowering of fruit trees. This phenomenon is called vernalization: it is a period of cold undergone by a plant which is necessary to make it pass from the vegetative stage to the flowering stage.
The transplant is delicate and requires experience. But in a resilient garden approach, it must be attempted. The transplant which does not require expert fingering is the "English transplant", simpler than that in "T" and "escutcheon". The technical? We cut 2 branches in bevels that are assembled with a grafting putty or clay, it is more natural. We will just prevent the branches from drying out by moistening with a tissue.
The good rootstocks: for the apple trees Those are the "Metz franc" we can graft apricot trees on almond trees and cherry trees on Cherry trees.
A old plum tree can be grafted with a queen claude and one mirabellier.
The moment ? The best period is in March-April.
What purpose ? To regenerate old fruit trees in an orchard and expand a bocage hedge.
- Late-flowering fruit trees such as the 'reinette de Savoie' apple tree are planted, but also mid-late and early species.
- The analysis of its soil is vital to avoid setting up fruit trees on the margins of their biotope, the best known cases would be for example apricot / peach trees in heavy soils, an almond tree in the shade, a chestnut tree in a superficial soil and a blueberry tree in a soil with a basic PH. Other tips with apple crunchers.
- Choose a good rootstock, get information in the nursery in your region
- Let grow at the foot of trees, see sowing green manures and flower beds.
- Finally, there is a space for edible fruit trees and pollinators of the 'perpetu everest' type which is a universal pollinator, the 'golden delicious' penalty for the 'tramp reinette' or the 'Canada gray', etc.
We want to implement a multi-tiered hedge which will necessarily be provided with small fruits. This work will be carried out from the beginning of November and can be done until the end of February, as long as it does not freeze. The blackcurrants and currants (raspberries rather divide) are the cuttings which root very well in "dry wood" and this, directly in the ground!
With the grelinette, we prepare the ground to a depth of 20 cm and a width ranging from 1.50m to 3m, if you want to make 2 staggered rows.
The cuttings are twigs of the year of 30 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter.
We transplant the cuttings in one aerated floor and weakened, in groups of 3 cuttings spaced 1m20 or even 1m50 apart (spreading shrubs to adult size, but with the seasonal pruning, this spacing can be reduced to 1m), these cuttings outside the ground will be 20cm high.
For the final, we will deposit a thick "compost mulch" over the entire length and 5cm thick and we will cover with a second layer composed of a "mulch of straw or dry chips" (i.e. 10 cm in the end). ). N.B: regarding the succession of mulches or "mulches", I advise you to look at the work of Dominique Soltner.
The appearance of roots begins at the end of February-beginning of March, the young shoots will reach 50 cm. Note: blackcurrants and currants bear fruit on shoots for 2 to 3 years. So let's be patient and avoid pruning.
- On the road to autonomy with Pierre 1911 and his "Jean Pain reactor":
- Resilient garden and autonomy: from the garden to the plate with Christophe Köppel and David and Catherine Latassa for living land
- A curious woman's vegetable garden with Josiane Goepfert
- Theme park to learn the fundamentals of the organic garden: terrabotanica.fr
- oasiscitadine.fr between the mixed farming farm and the shared garden
- Alsace permaculture network: good deals, announcements and articles on "know-how" at home in the garden, preserves, resilience.
- Exchange of vegetables, fruits and know-how: https://www.lepotiron.fr/
According to the FAO, in a century, 75% of cultivated edible varieties have disappeared despite the recent release of old seeds. To have seeds, discuss the recognition of plants and take action, free of charge, in favor of biodiversity, you can join Grainesdetroc.fr
For the compost bin, before going to the store, a large number of municipalities provide bins made of spruce wood and built in France locally and, often, in reintegration associations of the "garden of plenty" type and in the prisons. To better understand the challenge of sorting - if possible at 100% - of its bio-waste, Zérowaste France has launched a campaign.
The shredded material in a recycling platform near your home such as Bioyvelines.fr or see with brfgénération.fr
- The loan of garden tools can also be done between members of an association or in a SEL (Local Exchange System): annuairedessel.org
- Some town halls lend shredders, it starts to be done everywhere in France here is a small audio recap of Marie Arnould for the 4 seasons "living land"