Daffodil care: feeding and watering, loosening the soil, preparing for winter


Garden plants

Even not very experienced growers in our area grow daffodils. They are easy to care for, which makes them popular garden flowers.
Daffodils (Narcissus) are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and resistance to adverse conditions. Many people plant them in their garden wherever and how it is necessary, and they still grow and bloom. But if you want to achieve longer flowering from daffodils or grow them for cutting, you will have to take the time to provide the flowers with decent care. And the care of daffodils consists in proper watering, loosening the soil and timely fertilization of daffodils.

Watering daffodils

Daffodils are very moisture-loving flowers, this feature is reflected even in the myth, because the beautiful young man Narcissus admired himself in the waters of the stream and became a flower on its bank.

Therefore, you need to water daffodils abundantly immediately after the snow melts and the first shoots appear. However, keep in mind that, like all bulbous, daffodils do not tolerate stagnant water in the ground, so take care of good drainage in advance, even before planting flowers. The soil should allow water to pass through, not allowing it to stagnate in the roots.

In addition, it is very important to provide the daffodil flowers with moisture during budding. As a rule, buds are laid at the end of April, when the moisture remaining from the melted snow has almost completely evaporated or absorbed into the ground, and at this time the flowers of daffodils begin to experience a lack of it. It is the lack of moisture that leads to the fact that the buds fade without ever blooming.

Watering during flowering prolongs the life of the flower, however, you need to be careful when watering, because water that gets on the bud or opened flower will damage the petals.

After the daffodils have faded, they need to be watered for at least another month. This is very important for the bulbs: during this time they are gaining strength, which they will need in winter.

Loosening and weeding

Weeding daffodils need, like all plants. True, the period of their growth does not coincide with the active growth of weeds, so weeding of daffodils will not exhaust you. And if you mulched the soil for the winter, then you won't have to weed at all.

An important point in caring for daffodils is loosening the soil. Fluffing the soil between waterings helps to retain moisture in the soil, which daffodils need for full growth and flowering.

Loosen the soil in the area with daffodils very carefully so as not to damage the bulbs.

Top dressing daffodils

Most daffodils are early flowering plants, so daffodils are planted in the fall, closer to winter. At the same time, fertilizer is applied. To make the soil more nutritious, compost or humus is added to it, but you cannot fertilize the soil with manure: together with it, you can bring an onion hoverfly to the site, which will destroy the bulbs of daffodils.

In the spring, top dressing is done with inorganic fertilizers, which are easy to dissolve in water and add to the soil during irrigation. As soon as the snow melts, you need to remove the mulch from under the daffodil bushes and sprinkle them with water with mineral fertilizers containing sodium, phosphorus and potassium.

During budding, daffodils need to be fed with the same fertilizers. And one more time, the last, fertilizers are applied after flowering. In this case, you strengthen the bulbs of the daffodils and give them a supply of nutrients for the winter.

Preparing for winter

If you are not going to dig up daffodil bulbs for the winter, then you need to take care of their protection. This is what caring for daffodils in winter is all about.

Even after wilting, the leaves do not need to be removed, they themselves should turn yellow and dry out. The ground part of the plant allows the daffodil bulbs to accumulate strength for the winter.

In autumn, the area where daffodils grow must be mulched with peat or dry foliage: this way you protect the bulbs from freezing in winter and from weeds in spring.

Tacette Daffodils require special protection. They are very sensitive to frost, and therefore these daffodils must be covered for the winter.

If you decide to dig up daffodils for planting or transplanting, then do it in June, after the leaves turn yellow and easily separate from the bulb. But you can only transplant those daffodils that are 3-4 years old: by this age, the bulb becomes mature enough to grow full-fledged children. In one place, daffodils can grow even up to 6 years old, but then they require seating and transplanting.

Dug up daffodil bulbs should be well dried and then stored in a cool, dark place until September. It is necessary to plant daffodils in early autumn so that they have time to take root well before frost.

As you can see caring for daffodils is not that difficult... Good luck with growing!

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the Amaryllidaceae family
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Information about Garden Plants
  6. Information on Perennial Plants
  7. Information about Herbaceous plants

Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Blooming Bulbous flowers Amaryllis Plants on N


Planting, breeding and caring for slime onions

Slime onion is a perennial drooping plant. It forms many small bulbs, and after a few years a large, overgrown onion is formed. Once every four years, the plant needs to be transplanted, so it begins to oppress itself. The leaves of the plant are thick and fleshy, up to 25 cm long, do not coarse for a long time. The bulb is usually short, but in some varieties it is quite large. The scales are white. During the second year of the plant's life, arrows appear, at the end of which a ball with pink flowers is formed. In length, the arrows develop up to 70 cm. The flowering of the onion-slime begins in the middle of summer. Both the bulbs of the plant and its leaves have nutritional value. They taste like onions and garlic, slightly bitter. Slime onion is resistant to low temperatures, tolerates up to -30 ° C, which allows it to be grown everywhere.


The panicle hydrangea of ​​the Vanilla Frize variety is capable of reaching one and a half meters in height. The crown section is approximately 2 m.

The decorative features of the paniculate variety Vanilla Fraz are due to young, upright, red-colored shoots. During the flowering period, they begin to bend as the flowers exert pressure. This is what gives the shrub its spherical shape.

Foliage on panicle hydrangea Vanilla Fries is dense, oblong, painted in a dark green shade. The leaves have pubescence, which is often associated with a velvet cover. Mature plants of the Vanilla Freise cultivar have a small root system with a lot of branching.

Photo of panicle hydrangea Vanilla Fraze:

In the shape and shade of the inflorescence of a paniculate shrub, Vanilla Fries can be compared with a strawberry-vanilla cone. Hydrangea forms broad-pyramidal inflorescences, colored at first in white, but after a while in a pale pink color. By the autumn period, the flowers become darker.

Planting panicle hydrangea Vanilla Fraz is carried out in regions with both warm and cold climates, the main thing is to provide the plant with the necessary care.

Frost resistance of panicle hydrangea Vanilla Freise

Hydrangea paniculata (also known as Hydrangea paniculata vanille fraise) is renowned for its frost resistance. In regions where temperatures can reach -29 ° C during winter, it does not even need to be covered. But experienced gardeners argue that in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, the Vanilla Fries species needs shelter. This helps to prevent freezing of the branches of the plant.

Disease and pest resistance

This type of panicle hydrangea is highly resistant to diseases and pests. Shrubs of Vanilla Fries can attack insect pests or some diseases. Most often, paniculate varieties are subject to the following ailments:

  • chlorosis
  • powdery mildew
  • spider mite
  • aphid.


Weed control and soil loosening

Despite the fact that daffodils form dense groups and are constantly growing, these plants suffer greatly from neglect of plantings. It is better to fight weeds constantly, without giving them any chance to interfere with your favorite spring stars. For these bulbs, hand weeding is preferred over mechanical weeding.

Weeding of daffodils is combined with gentle loosening of the soil, which is carried out shallowly, avoiding the risk of injury to the bulbs and roots.

The only way to get rid of weeding daffodils and regular loosening is to mulch the soil.

Pruning faded buds and tying daffodil leaves. © Julie Hunt


Daffodils are unpretentious bulbous plants that appear in the garden after the snow melts. However, in order for them to delight the eye with their beauty and health, it is necessary to study all the nuances of planting.

When to plant?

Planting dates, which are determined by soil temperature, depend on the climatic zone of a particular region. The optimal time is considered to be the period during which the soil temperature remains within 8-10 ° C for three weeks. As a rule, planting work falls on the autumn season, but spring sowing is also possible, taking into account the preliminary two-month aging of the bulbs in the refrigerator and the agro-climatic features of the site.

In outskirts of Moscow

Planting of daffodils in the fall in the suburbs is carried out from mid-August to mid-September, which is due to the achievement of the required temperature level of the soil during this period of time.

In the Urals

In this region, the planting of bulbs, conventionally called autumn, is carried out during August. On condition of warm autumn, the period can be extended until the first half of September.

In Siberia

In the Siberian region, planting of daffodils is carried out, as a rule, according to agricultural areas of the Middle strip.

Soil preparation and site selection

When carrying out a complex of planting works, the selection of a site, taking into account the soil composition, is of great importance: the future development of narcissists depends on the correct choice. For healthy plant growth, a well-lit area with loose soil of a neutral reaction is suitable, where cereals, legumes and nightshade crops were cultivated before the planned planting of bulbs.

When preparing the soil to achieve the necessary indicators, the following fertilizers are applied:

  • nitroammofoska - 60 g per 1m2
  • humus - 5 kg per 1 m
  • dolomite flour - 200 g per 1 m2 (with lime soil)
  • wood flour - a similar amount (with acidic soil).

The choice of planting material

Three months after the end of the flowering of daffodils, you can come to grips with the issue of acquiring planting material.


General garden work to prepare for winter

Pest control, loosening and watering are carried out throughout the entire area. Shelter rules depend on air temperature, plant species, transplant date and other factors.

In the process of preparing for winter, a new landscape design of the site is being created. After harvesting leaves and weeds, optimal places for paths and garden figures become visible, the ratio of summer and winter plants is more clearly defined.

To ennoble the garden, you can plant conifers in empty areas. It is advisable to plant in October or November, and in the southern regions until mid-December.

Treatment of crops from insects and rodents

To destroy pests, trees and shrubs are treated with the following preparations:

  • 3% Bordeaux mixture
  • solution of urea and copper sulfate
  • diluted with a mixture of slaked lime and vitriol
  • by means of "Hom", "Oxyhom", "Alirin-B", "Fitosporin-M", etc.

To scare off rodents, you can use a solution of creolin (0.5-1 kg of substance per 1 bucket of water). Poisoned mouse baits (seeds, cereals, etc.) should be laid out near the trunk, placing them in cardboard tubes.

We treat trees with preparations against rodents.

Loosening the soil

The soil around shrubs and trees must be thoroughly weeded out. Loosening reduces the number of pests, saturates the soil with oxygen and prevents roots from freezing.

The near-bore circle is dug to the depth of half a bayonet (at least 15-20 cm).

The width of the circle is determined depending on the age of the tree:

  • up to 2 years - 2 m
  • 3-4 years - 2.5 m
  • 5-6 years - 3 m
  • 7-8 years old - 3.5 m
  • up to 10 years - 4 m
  • over 11 years - 5 m.

Up to 1 m of soil is loosened around the bushes. The depth of loosening is at least 8-10 cm. Ash is added to the dug circle at the rate of 3-4 glasses per 1 square meter.

Shelter for the winter

There are separate shelter methods for different garden plants.

Plant type Shelter type for the winter
Fruit shrubs (chokeberry, raspberry, blackberry, etc.) Lapnik, root mulching.
No shelter required in southern regions
Grapes Partial or complete shelter depending on the climate.
The vine is covered after the October watering
Asters, badan, geyhera Shelter is prohibited (risk of fungal infection is high).
Before the cold winter, transplanting and moving to a house or a heated barn is possible
Anemones, chrysanthemums, crocosmias Wire frame with shavings or dry leaves, covered with plastic wrap
Ornamental shrubs Mulching (with peat, earthen mixture or sawdust).
For roses - cover with spruce branches (climbing, standard) or a jute bag (bushes)
Exotic and thermophilic shrubs Jute bag, reed mats, etc.
Fruit trees Root mulching, cover with netting, tar paper or spruce branches to protect against pests.
For young trees - tying with burlap, kraft paper and thin planks

Newly transplanted plants need to be cared for more carefully than other perennials. In a warm winter, they can be covered with spruce branches, and in severe frosts, with a continuous non-woven material.

We cover the vine after the October watering.

Last watering of the season

If it rains every day, then you can refuse additional watering. In dry autumn, garden plants need to be saturated with moisture before mulching and insulation.

You need to water the trees for the last time 10-12 days before the onset of frost. The water temperature should be higher than that of the environment. The depth of soil moisture is 70-80 cm. To reach this level, you need to pour 15-20 buckets of water into the trunk circle of an adult tree and 3-10 buckets on a young tree or shrub.

Sawdust, peat, spruce branches or other mulch are placed on the wet soil.

Watering of the lawn stops only after the air temperature drops to + 5 ... + 7 ° С. Grass cutting should be stopped 2 weeks before the first frost. The height of the lawn should be 4-5 cm.


Disease and pest control

In order for sage to grow healthy, it is necessary to fight the insects that threaten it.

Garden booger

Its larva eats stems and is capable of inflicting great damage on bushes. To reduce the risk, you need to regularly weed the garden, and if there are many pests, treat the sage with insecticides.

Sage mites

Very small mites stick to the leaves, sucking out the juice. White dry spots remain in these places. Treatment of plants with acaricides will be effective. You can use "Kleschevit", "Akarin" and others.

Sage moth

It looks like a nondescript light brown butterfly. Caterpillars emerge from moth eggs. Dealing with them is quite difficult. In the fall, the earth is dug up to destroy the larvae and pupae. In summer, sage is treated with insecticides such as Fufanon.

Sage weevil

Beetles with a black-brown body and their larvae are also dangerous for sage. In the event of an attack, damaged leaves with small holes can be seen. Plants are sprayed with Aktellik or other acaricides.

Sage scoop

Another butterfly with yellowish wings. The greatest danger to plants is represented by caterpillars of yellow-green color. With a small amount, they are harvested by hand. If there are many caterpillars, sage is treated with lepidocide at weekly intervals.

With proper care, the fragrant and beautiful sage in the garden will delight you for many years.


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