By: Nikki Tilley, Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden
Whether you’re already growing trumpet vine in the garden or you’re thinking about starting trumpet vines for the first time, knowing how to propagate these plants certainly helps. Propagating trumpet vine is actually pretty easy and can be done in a number of ways — seed, cuttings, layering, and division of its roots or suckers.
While all of these methods are easy enough, it’s important that everyone be aware that these plants are poisonous and not just when ingested. Contact with its foliage and other plant parts, especially during propagation or pruning, can result in skin irritation and inflammation (such as redness, burning, and itching) in overly sensitive individuals.
Trumpet vine will readily self-seed, but you can also collect and plant the seeds in the garden yourself. You can collect seeds once they mature, usually when the seedpods begin to turn brown and split open.
You can then either plant them in pots or directly in the garden (about ¼ to ½ inch (0.5 to 1.5 cm.) deep) in fall, allowing the seeds to overwinter and sprout in spring, or you can store the seeds until spring and sow them at that time.
Cuttings can be taken in summer. Remove the bottom set of leaves and stick them in well-draining potting soil. If desired, you can dip the cut ends in rooting hormone first. Water thoroughly and place in a shady location. Cuttings should root within about a month or so, give or take, at which time you can transplant them or let them continue growing until the following spring and then replant elsewhere.
Layering can also be done. Simply nick a long piece of stem with a knife and then bend it down to the ground, burying the wounded portion of the stem. Secure this in place with wire or a stone. Within about a month or two, new roots should form; however, it’s better to allow the stem to remain intact until spring and then remove it from the mother plant. You can then transplant your trumpet vine in its new location.
Trumpet vine can be propagated by digging up the roots (suckers or shoots) as well and then replanting these in containers or other areas of the garden. This is normally done in late winter or early spring. Pieces of root should be about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm.) long. Plant them just beneath the soil and keep them moist. Within a few weeks or a month, new growth should begin to develop.
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However, I've never been able to propagate it.
Here's my setup. I plant in a mixture of peat moss and perlite and place under plant light next to a window. I cover with plastic wrap but not tightly so there's room for air circulation. I water only when the top inch has dried out:
I get my cuttings but cutting the end of a branch and trim the leaves from the part that goes into the dirt. I wet and tap it in rooting hormone before sticking in a hole and then squeeze the container slightly.
In the photo below, the back row contain cuttings from Snail vine and they are doing fine. The front row are my trumpet cuttings. The ones in the right container already dead and one in the left container - which was from middle of a ticker stem - seems to be on its way dying.
Can you tell me please what I'm doing wrong? Do I need a heating pad? I am guessing temperature not an issue because I see water evaporation on the plastic cover after I water. I also thought perhaps this is just the wrong time of the year to do this, even though I'm in Los Angeles. But the vine doesn't seem asleep and is growing. Any tips would be much appreciated and thank you in advance.
Mabe remove all but two of the top leaves and cut off the top half of each leaf so the energy will be used in the rooting area. Heat is important keep above 60 degrees. Also sink two areas of leaf nodes in the soil. Sometimes when propagating it just takes lots of cuttings and more practice.
Sometimes the plant can be divided in early spring or late winter when it's dormant. Or dig up side shoots from the mother plant . Best success rate for me is to take runners from the plant and replant in same area next to trumpet vine. In summer temps I usually just remove all the leaves from a runner and place several feet under the soil. Leave runner attached to the mother plant. Add a few rocks to hold the soil over the runner. In just a few week it has roots , then cut from mother plant and cut several 4-5" sections and place in pots or replant in garden. It's a air rooting technique. It works every time.
Sometimes called trumpet creeper, trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) is a deciduous vine prized for its trumpet-shaped, coral colored flowers and vigorous growth habit. It is widely grown throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 to 10, although it has invasive tendencies in warmer climates and must be grown under controlled conditions. Trumpet vine propagates readily from semi-ripe cuttings taken in midsummer. However, they must be kept under extremely humid conditions during the rooting process to keep the stem and leaves hydrated and healthy.
Combine equal parts washed sand and milled peat in a bucket. Cover the mixture with water and let it soak until the peat plumps up, which typically takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Pour the mixture into a sieve or colander and let the excess water drain.
Stir the growing medium until the peat and sand are fully integrated. Pack it into a 4-inch plastic pot. Make sure to use a pot with at least two holes at the base for drainage. Set the pot in a shaded spot while gathering a trumpet vine cutting.
Choose a 4-inch-long cutting from the tip of a healthy trumpet vine stem. Choose one with a plump stem, plenty of foliage and no flowers or flower buds. Avoid stems with insect damage or signs of stress, such as yellow leaves or deformed growth.
Sever the trumpet vine cutting just below a pair of leaves using clean scissors. Pinch off all of the leaves along the bottom half of the cutting to uncover the growth nodes, which is where the roots will emerge. Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone powder, if desired.
Create a 2-inch-deep planting hole in the center of the moistened sand mixture. Stick the defoliate, or leafless, part of the trumpet vine cutting into the planting hole. Hold it upright while gently pushing the sand mixture against the stem.
Cover the pot with a propagation dome or a clear plastic bag large enough to envelope the pot without it resting against the cutting. Position the pot in a bright, wind-sheltered location such as under a porch. Shield the trumpet vine cutting from direct sun to keep it from wilting.
Lift the propagation dome twice daily and mist the trumpet vine cutting. Check the moisture level in the sand mixture at each misting. Add water whenever it feels barely damp 2 inches below the surface. Avoid overwatering the trumpet vine cutting because it may rot.
Check for roots in three months by lightly tugging at the base of the trumpet vine cutting. If the cutting resists the tugging motion, it has rooted successfully.
Transplant the trumpet vine cutting into a 6-inch pot filled with standard potting soil three weeks after it roots. Grow it in a warm, sheltered spot with direct sun exposure during its first winter. Transplant it into a permanent planting site in spring after all frost danger has passed.
|Family:||Bignoniaceae (big-no-nih-AY-see-ee) (Info)|
|Genus:||Bignonia (big-NO-nee-uh) (Info)|
|Species:||callistegioides (kal-lis-steg-ee-OY-deez) (Info)|
Average Water Needs Water regularly do not overwater
USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)
Seed is poisonous if ingested
May be a noxious weed or invasive
From semi-hardwood cuttings
Scarify seed before sowing
Allow pods to dry on plant break open to collect seeds
This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:
Citrus Heights, California
Walnut Creek, California(2 reports)
Elizabeth City, North Carolina
On Apr 27, 2009, Lily_love from Central, AL (Zone 7b) wrote:
I'm very pleased to announce that this vine does well in my garden for years, 4 goes on to 5th this spring. The woodsy vines sometimes drop leave in the winter when temp. drops to the teens (farenheit degrees) in occasions. Last winter was one of the worse ones, I was concern of its hardiness. It came through and as a result (chilling period?) it's blooming profusely this spring. I'm delighted.
On May 22, 2008, adirolf from Milton, FL wrote:
This vine is a very heavy-looking (dense, hard to see through) vine. Perfect, if that's what you are looking for. I'm not sure how long it takes to achieve that look, as mine has been in a pot since I've had it. The original plant was on a chain-link fence and I didn't know how long it had been there.
On Jul 14, 2007, Opoetree from Oak View, CA wrote:
We have had this plant for a number of years now. We had a really hard freeze last year, but this plant was not bothered. Other vines were hit hard and are just now recovering from ground level. It is a lovely plant -- and adds to the tropical effect we are nurturing with queen palms and giant birds of paradise.
On May 1, 2007, kathyinaz from Phoenix, AZ wrote:
I planted one of these a year ago here in Phoenix, AZ in full sun. It survived our big freeze which killed off other vines. It is not a rampant grower here. I'm just happy it came back to blossom another year!
On Jun 18, 2006, eurokitty from Seattle, WA (Zone 9b) wrote:
We used this to cover an unsightly fence. Grows incredibly fast here in southwest Florida. Does seem more manageable than the red trumpet vines.
On Jul 13, 2004, laura_l from Tucson, AZ wrote:
Flowers have a hint of sweet scent, and we always get compliments when in full bloom!
On Mar 30, 2004, ladyannne from Merced, CA (Zone 9a) wrote:
The seeds are found in a long prickly pod (about 3" by 1") with two plentiful layers of seeds rather space ship shaped. The seeds must be stratified (60 days), soaked (24 hours) and nicked. Germination is lengthy.
I accidentally cut one of the older main root stems which led to most of the plant. I quickly got a vase and placed the stem in the vase at ground level. It is doing well.
After three years, the showing is now breath taking! It has intermingled with passion flowers and the presentation is stunning. I am going to be trimming both back after bloom, to say the least, but it will be worth every garbage can.
The flowers are much deeper purple when they don't receive a full day's sun.
On Apr 21, 2002, Roselaine from North Vancouver, BC (Zone 8a) wrote:
this vine is anywhere from 10-16' in height
On Apr 20, 2002, weeds from Panhandle, FL (Zone 8a) wrote: