Houseplants Published: October 14, 2011 Reprinted: Last edits:
Abutilon (Latin Abutilon) - "shade-giving" or indoor maple is so named for the similarity of its leaves with maple leaves. It is also called the “rope-man” because in India the fibrous mass of abutilones is used to make burlap and ropes. Abutilon Mill (genus of abutilones) has about 100 species of shrubs of the Malvov family in tropical and subtropical zones of the Earth.
The shrub is abundantly branching, large 3-5 lobed leaves up to 10 cm long with their graceful cutouts really look like maple leaves, bell-shaped flowers are sometimes single, and sometimes collected in several.
There are forms for the garden, as well as varieties with variegated leaves, with flowers of red or yellow color, with many stamens. Hybrid forms bloom longer, have a wider palette of colors and a variety of flower and leaf shapes. Abutilone is used most often for large rooms and winter gardens. If desired, you can select different types of shrubs so as to achieve constant flowering all year round. It is interesting to experiment with abutilon: variegated forms can be grafted to species with green leaves.
Read more about growing abutilon below.
Abutilon (indoor maple) at home, with all its unpretentiousness, is most afraid of drafts. Otherwise, it is easy to grow it even for novice florists: keep it in the light or in a light shade, it will withstand several hours of direct sun. Expose to the air during summer, providing protection from rain, wind, and sudden changes in lighting that can cause leaves and flowers to fall off. In winter, give it bright lighting, using fluorescent lighting if necessary.
Growing abutilon in room conditions requires setting the correct temperature regime: in summer within 25 ° C, and in winter the plant is comfortable at 12-15 ° C, no less, otherwise Abutilon sheds its leaves.
The abutilone plant needs abundant watering from early March until autumn, it is advisable to regularly spray the leaves. In winter, let the soil dry out between waterings, spray with abutilone from time to time.
During the period of growth and flowering, it is advisable to feed indoor abutilon with organic and mineral fertilizers every two weeks.
Abutilon at home for the spring and summer grows well if it is properly looked after, but in order for it to have a beautiful crown, at the very end of winter it must be cut to half the height, and during the growth period it must be cleaned of weak and unnecessary shoots, not giving the shrub too much thicken, and also tie to a support.
Caring for abutilon at home involves a transplant - it must be carried out in the spring, before flowering: young plants - every year, mature - every 2-3, using a substrate with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction (pH about 6) from turf, leaf and humus soil (1/3 each) with the addition of sand. Just a couple of centimeters in diameter, the new pot should be larger than the previous one, since the abutilon flower blooms well only when the roots are cramped in the pot. Abutilon grows well in hydroponics.
Reproduction of abutilon is carried out by almost slightly lignified cuttings or seeds. Seeds are sown in early spring in a substrate of sand and peat to a depth of 5 mm, sprinkling and airing daily. At a temperature of 16-20 ° C, seedlings will appear in three weeks. During seed propagation, the parental traits are split, therefore variegated varieties of abutilon are not propagated by seeds.
Abutilon flower can be propagated in spring by cuttings: cuttings are cut from the ends of young shoots into 10-12 cm long pieces with three leaves, the buds are removed and rooted in a constantly moist sandy-peat substrate or at a temperature of 21 ° -23 ° C in water for four weeks ... It is best to make a greenhouse. Rooted seedlings dive into a pot with a diameter of 7 cm. For propagation, you can also use cuttings left after pruning.
Abutilon sheds buds and leaves. There are two reasons - the wrong temperature regime (a sharp temperature drop) or improper watering (the plant does not have enough moisture, or vice versa - excess water stagnates in the pot).
Abutilone leaves turn pale. Abutilone is not getting enough light. The plant needs to be rearranged to a bright place, but do not do it abruptly, expose it to the light first for an hour or two, then more, gradually increasing the time. If the room is north, and there is little light anywhere, then additional lighting (fluorescent lamps) will be required.
The tips of the abutilone leaves dry out. The room humidity is too low. It is advisable to spray Abutilon on hot days (without water getting on the flowers), and the humidity in a room with central heating in winter can be increased by placing a container of water next to the pot.
The lower leaves of abutilone fall off. This indicates a lack of nutrients in the substrate. You need to feed the plant.
Pests of abutilone. The most common pests are: thrips, spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, whiteflies, and aphids.
It is a shrub reaching a height of 2.5 m, shoots are softly pubescent, leaves are large, green, velvety, 3-5 lobed, with a pronounced serrate edge, reaching 15 cm in length; flowers on long pedicels (up to about 15 cm) are collected in clusters of 3-4 pieces, the corolla is broadly bell-shaped or wheel-shaped, almost round, the petals are lilac-blue, sometimes with dark veins, the flowering period is May.
American hybrid of Abutilon pictum, also called striped abutilon (Abutilon striatum) or Abutilon Darwin (Abutilon darwinii), has a lot of varieties. One and a half meter evergreen bush with brown bark, 3-5 lobed green leaves with soft down, maple-shaped, on long petioles reaching 12 cm in length, drooping flowers, bell-shaped, up to 5 cm long, white, golden, red, dark red - depending on the variety.
It is rarely found in culture. Fluffy, silky shoots reach no more than one meter and end in three-lobed large (15-20 cm long and 8-10 cm wide) drooping leaves on long petioles, at the bottom the leaves have 5-7 lobes, the middle one is elongated; flowers are bright orange with red veins, bell-shaped, up to 5 cm in diameter, formed in the axils of the leaves, 1-3 pieces. The flowering period is from April to September.
Some still call him amazonian abutilone, the British call Weeping Chinese Lantern or "weeping Chinese lantern": up to 1.5 m high with thin, drooping shoots; oval elongated leaves, sometimes unevenly toothed, deep green, up to 8 cm long; also single flowers that hang down on rather long pedicels with a convex tubular-ribbed corolla, usually bright red, the calyx is formed by pale yellow petals with a red spot at the base. In good hands, it blooms all year round.
Are called striped abutilon (Abutilon striatum) or abutilon painted. Abutilon painted - a shrub with short, soft, almost non-woody shoots; leaves in the shape of a heart on long petioles consist of 3-6 serrate lobes, not pubescent, green with torn white spots along the edges; flowers in the form of a bell, on long stalks, are formed in the axils of the leaves, are distinguished by a golden corolla with red veins, which is several times longer than the calyx. The flowering period is August-September.
Bush variety thompsonii Vetch reaches 2 m in height; leaves are five-lobed, toothed, non-pubescent, 10 cm long, with yellow spots on a dark green leaf base; large, up to 7 cm, flowers can be simple or double, light red or yellow, bloom in June.
Sometimes it is confused with hybrid abutilone, but it is slightly branched, reaches 2 m in height, its straight shoots are pubescent, the leaves are three-lobed with pointed elongated lobes; the flowers are light purple with pink veins, from July to mid-December there is a flowering period.
It differs in striped golden-pinnate leaves, because of its long graceful shoots it is grown as an ampelous plant, but it is successfully used in winter gardens as a ground cover.
Abutilon is often used in culture as an ampelous plant growing in hanging pots, but if attached to a support, it grows like a bush. The most beautiful of the decorative ampel forms variegata.
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During the period of active growth - in spring and summer - the plant needs regular and fairly abundant watering. However, it is important to be careful not to flood the flower.
Waterlogging, like insufficient watering, can provoke shedding of leaves and buds.
It is better that the top layer of soil in the pot dry out a little before the next portion of moisture.
Towards the end of autumn, watering is gradually reduced. In winter, it should be moderate. But at the same time, the soil should not dry out.
Water for irrigation is used settled or melted, it is important that it is warm.
Growing a flower lumbago from seeds in a seedling method does not involve much trouble, but it allows you to get strong and healthy young plants that will successfully take root in the garden. It is optimal to take fresh seed, pre-stratify it and sow under a film in light, loose soil. Plants will need a sufficient amount of light and heat, timely accurate watering, and as they grow a little - picking in individual pots. If the seeds were sown at the end of winter or early spring, they can be transferred to a permanent place in the open ground with the onset of August. Sleep-grass bushes look very beautiful during the flowering period, are unpretentious, resistant to diseases and pests and will certainly be able to add their own notes to the symphony of the beauty of any garden.