For about a week I have planted rosemary, sage, parsley and tomato seedlings in the ground. Rosemary and sage are in an area of full sun for several hours, rather dry soil; x the others the soil is more humid and direct sun for a few hours. Since I have been on the ground I have noticed that all the plants have lost "color" or are a paler green than when I bought them. I am especially concerned about rosemary and sage: sage seems limp and rosemary from bright green is a darker but "dull" green and the needles are losing consistency and thinning more and more (they are less fleshy) they are drying up but without turning brown. I specify that I watered everything every day, giving little water to sage and even less to rosemary, knowing that it loves dry soils. What should I do?
Hello Sara, thank you for writing us on the "Questions and Answers" board of our website. Most likely your plants are undergoing a slight transplant stress, a phenomenon that affects more or less all the plants that are transplanted. It may happen that even species such as rosemary and sage, notoriously hardy and resistant, undergo the change of environment and consequently take a few weeks before adapting to the new place of life. Excluding the hypothesis that they have not been left in some dark area for several days before the transplant, the only advice we can give you is to slightly decrease the watering.
A rumor that has been handed down for several generations, comparable to popular traditions that have now become customary regarding the cutting of wood and the phases of the moon, argues that sage and rosemary should not be placed close together in the same flower bed or in the same vase as the two plants would produce secretions to hinder the growth of other plants in the circumstances. From our point of view these are only popular beliefs but many people in doubt still prefer to keep the two plants away from each other and we do not feel like advising or discouraging this practice. Ultimately, we only advise you to wait a few weeks and you will see that the plants will recover from the transplant and return to being in great shape.
Vegetable garden, vegetable garden, balcony and garden: for those who are blessed with luck (in terms of space and time), the green thumb can have no limits. Down with soil and seeds to be planted, plants of all kinds, aromatic herbs, fruit and vegetables. Those who have the passion for it will find great satisfaction in "self-cultivation". If only the things cultivated by oneself are certainly the most genuine. But how to deal with the unwanted guests?
Yes, because among aphids and small bedbugs, caterpillars and snails, mosquitoes, whiteflies and mealybugs, many little animals are ready to brush off our work and ruin our tasty fruits.
If many times plant diseases are caused by poor care or climatic conditions, many others are due to insects and parasites. To intervene in our vegetable garden, in the garden and to protect potted plants, we can use non-toxic remedies and natural pesticides.
On the other hand, there is another natural tool to get rid of many parasites: the herbs, which prove to be of great help in removing annoying insects from our plants.
What herbs combine well with each vegetable? Here are the perfect combinations:
Aphids, also known as 'plant lice', can become a problem for the vegetable garden and the garden.
Symptoms: presence of small insects on plants, in particular on roses, alterations of the leaves of plants, of which the aphids suck the sap.
Remedies: among the remedies for aphids we find horsetail infusion, tomato macerate, Marseille soap spray, garlic decoction and neem oil, introduction of ladybirds into the garden as natural predators.
If you notice that the leaves of your salad are pitted and nibbled, it is probably the fault of the caterpillars.
Symptoms: pitted and nibbled leaves, presence of caterpillars near the plants and under the leaves.
Remedies: broken egg shells to create a barrier around the vegetable garden and plants with the aim of embarrassing both caterpillars and snails, removing caterpillars, washing the plants with water and pepper as shown in the following video.
Typical of the regions Mediterranean, rosemary grows spontaneously in the clearings and woods of the coastal areas. It is a plant often grown in gardens, but also in pots, for culinary purposes where it is used for the aroma of its leaves.
Rosemary fears severe frosts, fog and too humid soils. The temperature should never drop below -5 ° C.
Rosemary prefers arid and stony soils, where the water drains quickly, typical of the southern regions. However, this shrub is also able to adapt very well to soils with very different characteristics, also finding space in vegetable gardens and green areas in northern Italy.
Special attention should be paid if you want to cultivate in the presence of particularly compact and clayey soils. In this type of soil, unfavorable to the root system of rosemary, it will be essential to mix sand or stony soil with the soil.
A good sun exposure it is well appreciated by rosemary, even if it adapts very well to partially shaded exposures. It prefers a warm temperate climate, characteristic of the Mediterranean basin, but also tolerates cold winters and rigid temperatures, typical of northern Italy. Thanks to this marked adaptability, it can also be grown in the hills and in the mountains up to an altitude of about 1000 meters, just protect it from frosts with straw wrapped in a special cloth (which you can find here). In the case of a potted plant, it will be good to place it in a greenhouse or in a sheltered structure.
Evergreen shrubby plant that reaches heights of 50-300 cm, with deep, fibrous and resistant roots, anchoring has woody stems of light brown color, ascending or erect prostrates, very branched, the young hairy gray-green branches are quadrangular in section .
The persistent and leathery leaves are 2–3 cm long and 1–3 mm wide, sessile, opposite, linear-lanceolate, densely packed on the twigs of a dark green shiny color on the upper page and whitish on the lower one due to the presence of white down they have slightly revolute margins rich in oil glands.
The hermaphrodite flowers are sessile and small, gathered in short clusters at the armpit of overlapping floriferous leaves, forming long elongated, bracteal and leafy spikes, with flowering from March to October, in the most sheltered positions intermittently all year round.
Each flower has a campanulate, tomentose calyx with a tridentate upper lip and the lower bifid, a lilac-indigo, blue-violet or, more rarely, white or pale blue corolla, is bilabiate with a slight swelling in correspondence with the fauce the upper lip it is bilobed, the lower one trilobe, with the median lobe larger than the lateral ones and in the shape of a spoon with the wavy margin the stamens are only two with filaments equipped with a small tooth at the base and inserted in correspondence with the jaw of the corolla the ovary it is unique, superior and quadripartite.
Pollination is entomophilous, that is, it is mediated by pollinating insects, including the domestic bee, which collects pollen and abundant nectar, from which excellent honey is obtained.   
The fruits are tetrachene, with free, oblong and smooth achenes, brownish in color.
It requires a sunny position sheltered from the icy winds, light sandy-peaty soil, well drained, not very resistant to rigid and prolonged climates.
It can be grown in pot on the terraces, taking care to place some shards on the bottom for optimal drainage, repotting every 2-3 years, using universal soil mixed with sand, monthly fertilizations with liquid fertilizer mixed with the irrigation water, which will be controlled. and thinned out in winter.
In spring the plant is renewed by trimming the main shoots, to obtain a bushy appearance, without having to resort to pruning.
It easily multiplies by apical cuttings of the new shoots in spring taken from the basal shoots and from the most vigorous plants planted for at least 2/3 of their length in a mixture of peat and sand or is sown in April-May, transplanted in September or in the following spring or multiplies by division of the plant in spring.
As a result of the defense mechanisms from heat and arid (typical of the Mediterranean scrub), the plant presents, if the climate is sufficiently hot and arid in summer and warm in winter, the phenomenon of aestivation, i.e. the plant almost completely stops the vegetation. in summer, while it has the luxuriance of vegetation and the vital phases (flowering and fruiting) respectively in late autumn or winter, and in spring. In cooler and more humid climates, the vegetation phases can be shifted towards the summer. However, in summer, especially if it is hot, the plant always tends to be in a resting phase.
In addition to the medicinal uses illustrated below, rosemary is used:
With deep and resistant roots, a light brown woody stem, rosemary is characterized by sessile, linear-lanceolate, dark green leaves that thicken on the branches. The flowers are small, grouped in small clusters.
Rosemary prefers the sun and does not like icy winds, so it is always good to plant rosemary in shelter, perhaps next to a wall. The favored soil is sandy-peaty and must be well drained. It can also be grown in pots.
The multiplication can take place by seed, by cutting or by division, all operations that must be done in spring.
The leaves are harvested all year round, while the flowers can be harvested from May to August for the preparation of infusions and mother tincture.
It is advisable to use fresh leaves and flowers, as rosemary loses most of its active ingredients with drying.
The white sickness caused by the Sphaerotheca - if the plant is not very affected by it, it is enough to remove only the infested branches.
Root rot, caused by the Rhizoctonia fungus.
Small black spots, with undefined edges, caused by the Alternaria fungus.
It can be attacked by aphids.
The flowers of rosemary were considered by the Greeks an excellence.
Among the Romans, rosemary - before the discovery of incense - was burned in temples on the occasion of major religious functions.
It has digestive, aperitif and balsamic properties. It stimulates sweating and diuresis and its leaves in the hot bath help the skin to purify and tone up.
Source: INRAN - National Research Institute for Food and Nutrition
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In addition to their beneficial properties, aromatic herbs can be divided according to type. There are annual, biennial and perennial species:
It is important that the annual and biennial types are replaced with other species cyclically, in order to guarantee good growth and avoid diseases.
3. The best time to proceed to cultivation of aromatic plants it's spring.
4. Aromatic care is very simple, follow the directions to give the right amount of water depending on the type of flower bed you have created. Take care of the plants keeping the soil clean from weeds, alternatively you can resort to mulching with bark or straw.
You will thus have aromatic plants in perfect shape.
Yes, after having cultivated and cared for our aromatic plants, it would be a waste not to think about how to preserve all the benefits of these plants, so that they can also be used during the winter.
As we anticipated in the course of the article, one of the simpler methods for drying aromatic herbs (excluding dryers and alternative techniques, such as the use of the oven), is to store them in a room away from light. Here's how to dry rosemary:
Again, we propose the simpler method for drying basil. You can do it with the same procedure as for rosemary or alternatively, use the following method:
As we have seen with the other aromatic herbs, even with oregano, we can proceed with drying and storage, in order to have it available even during the cold months: