Rules for planting garden lingonberries on the site


Lingonberry is now a rare guest in our gardens. People prefer to go to the forest for this berry. But it is very easy to plant it on your site. This plant is unpretentious and tolerates frost perfectly. Knowing and observing the planting rules, even a novice gardener will be able to grow lingonberries.

Lingonberry in the garden

Lingonberry has beneficial properties, is grown as a garden plant, and its ability to look attractive throughout the year allows the use of small bushes as a landscape decoration. Thanks to these qualities, small plants with red berries can be called versatile.

Through the efforts of breeders, more than 20 varieties of lingonberry with excellent performance have appeared.

Glossy foliage and vibrant lingonberries will brighten up your garden

You can simply plant the bushes as a curb or create a stunning living carpet. Show your imagination, especially since the plant is very picky about agricultural technology. Although there are still some rules, without which attempts to grow lingonberries on the site will not be crowned with success.

How to independently prepare soil for planting

The correct composition of the soil is the key to successful cultivation of garden lingonberries. For a plant, the fertility of the substrate is not so important as its acidity. The berry grower does not tolerate heavy loam, but prefers loose light loam, sandy loam and peaty soils. Sandy soil is considered ideal.

If the soil is slightly acidic or neutral, it will have to be acidified regularly by adding powdered sulfur at the rate of 10-15 g / m2... You can use acidified water - dilute 100 g of citric acid in 3 liters of liquid or mix 20 ml of apple cider vinegar with 1 liter of water. For irrigation 1 m2 you need to use 10 liters of solution.

You can acidify the soil with water and citric acid

Not in every area you can find a soil suitable for lingonberries. But there is a way out - to prepare the soil mixture yourself. There may be several components, but the main ingredient present in different mixtures is high-moor peat, the pH of which is 3-4.

High-moor peat is the main component of soil for lingonberries

The simplest composition for planting garden lingonberries is prepared from the following components:

  • high-moor peat - 3 parts;
  • coarse river sand - 1 part.

You can prepare another mixture, more varied in the set of ingredients:

  • high-moor peat - 2 parts;
  • coarse river sand - 1 part;
  • sawdust - 1 part;
  • fallen needles - 1 part.

Planting lingonberries

The planting process includes several stages, the correct implementation of which will depend on how quickly the plant will take root.

Site selection and preparatory work

For growing garden lingonberries, you can take any place, the main thing is that it is even, dry and well lit (light partial shade is still allowed). You can plant a plant under trees, in the shade, but then the yield will decrease, and lingonberries will delight only with elegant green foliage. Draft areas should be excluded, but there should be no stagnation of air either.

For planting garden lingonberries, choose an illuminated, but draft-free place.

Flooded lowlands or areas where groundwater runs 40–60 cm to the surface are not suitable for planting. Excess moisture combined with a lack of oxygen will lead to the death of the root system. In areas with waterlogged soil, you need to prepare high beds: first, lay drainage (gravel or broken brick), and fill it with prepared soil mixture on top.

You can use sawn peat. The contours of the beds are laid out from the peat blocks, and the inside is covered with soil.

If the soil on the site is too wet, high ridges need to be prepared for lingonberries.

Free the selected place from vegetation and prepare the beds. Lingonberry roots are no more than 10 cm deep, so dig a depression on the shovel's bayonet (about 30 cm) or a little deeper. Width - 1–1.5 m.

Distance between plants:

  • if the plantings are single-row, then the distance between the plants is kept about 20 cm, and in the aisles - 45 cm;
  • belt planting, which includes from 2 to 3 rows, suggest wider row spacings - up to 60 cm. The distance between the ribbons-ridges is 20–30 cm, and the bushes are planted 15–20 cm apart;
  • to create a living carpet, you can plant the bushes in a checkerboard pattern, keeping a distance of 30-40 cm between them.

Video: planting lingonberries and blueberries

Boarding time

Container plants are planted on prepared beds throughout the growing season. They quickly take root and take root in a new place easily. Transfer the lingonberry bushes to the garden bed carefully so as not to destroy the earthen lump.

Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted during any growing season

Spring is recognized by many gardeners as the most optimal time for planting. But you need to plant the plant before the beginning of the growing season - in April or early May. Although it is also possible to plant in the fall, but during this period it is better to use grown and strengthened planting material.

Planting lingonberry seedlings

It is not difficult to plant seedlings with an open root system on a garden bed. In order for the bushes to take root well, during transportation, wrap the roots with moist sphagnum moss, otherwise the root system will dry out. If you cannot plant the purchased seedling immediately, hold it until planting in a cool place at a temperature of no higher than 50FROM.

Step by step process:

  1. Dig a small hole in the prepared soil, slightly larger than the lingonberry root system.
  2. Lower the bush into the groove, spread the roots freely.
  3. Cover with substrate.
  4. Water the bush abundantly and mulch with a layer of 3-4 cm, but try not to cover the plant itself. Mulch will help create a favorable temperature regime and retain moisture. You can use peat, sawdust, pine nut husks, pine bark. Such material looks decorative and acidifies the soil.

Sandy soils are perfectly mulched by peat and pine sawdust. For peaty soil, it is better to use fine gravel or coarse sand.

After planting, lingonberries need to be mulched.

The bushes planted in spring must be protected from possible return frosts. Above the landings, a shelter is constructed from a non-woven material stretched over metal arcs. It is harvested only after complete rooting (after about 2 weeks).

Experienced gardeners do not recommend using plastic wrap.

In order for the lingonberry to successfully root, you can build a shelter over it.

High-quality lingonberries are most often sold with a closed root system. Such plants are fully adapted and take root easily. During planting, they are carefully removed from the container, and then proceed as described above. If planting occurs in early summer, then the plants need to be sheltered from the bright sun. To do this, a rigid wire frame is installed over the beds and a translucent material is pulled over it. After 2 weeks, when the rooting process is completed, the shelter is gradually removed, accustoming young plants to the sun.

Planting lingonberry seeds

This method will be more of a hassle. In the period of fruiting, a plant grown from seeds enters only in the 4th-5th year. But, given the high cost of planting material and its shortage, the trouble will fully justify itself.

Seeds extracted from the fruit can be sown in late autumn directly in the garden, but always in a suitable substrate. During the winter period, they undergo a process of natural stratification, and in the spring they sprout.

Stratification - keeping seeds at a low temperature, since without preliminary cooling, the seed can rot.

If you did not have time with the autumn planting, then stratification is carried out at home, by placing the collected material for 4 months in a refrigerator at a temperature of 4aboutC. All this time, the seeds should be in wet sand.

Lingonberry seeds must be stratified before spring planting.

Features of planting seeds:

  1. The hardened seeds are sown in a moist peat-sandy substrate, which is poured into shallow containers.
  2. The temperature for germination must be kept within 20aboutFROM.
  3. Seeds germinate in the light, so you don't need to sprinkle them with earth.
  4. The substrate must be kept moist.
  5. Seedlings appear in 2-3 weeks.
  6. The grown seedlings can be planted in open ground in the summer without destroying the earthy coma during the planting process.

How to plant lingonberries from the forest

Planting material can be taken in the forest. To do this, use a sharp knife to separate several bushes from the main rhizome. Along with the plants, grab the soil substrate in which the lingonberry grows. After planting for 2 weeks while rooting takes place, shade the bushes with covering material and mulch the soil under them to avoid overdrying.

Lingonberry bush brought from the forest can be rooted in the garden

Video: planting lingonberries and blueberries brought from the forest

Planting lingonberries in the Moscow region

Many varieties of lingonberry are suitable for cultivation in a temperate continental climate. Among them is the Russian Ruby. Of the foreign varieties, the following are popular:

  • Sanna;
  • Coral;
  • Erntkrone;
  • Erntesegen;
  • Linnaeus;
  • Sushi;
  • Ida;
  • Red Ammerland;
  • Amazon.

In favorable conditions, plants are able to grow rapidly, and remontant varieties yield a crop twice a year.

Lingonberry bushes will become a real highlight in a garden near Moscow

A living lingonberry carpet is a memorable sight. But you can also admire the beauty of the plant on your site. By planting lingonberry bushes in the garden, you will not only create a unique corner, but also get a harvest of useful berries.

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Good day! My name is Irina. I live in a wonderful place - Crimea. Educator by education. I love nature and animals very much. I have been fond of floriculture for a long time, but I have just begun to master garden wisdom. My motto is live, learn.

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Lingonberry garden cultivation on a personal plot in the garden in the country from seeds at home breeding methods

It is customary for the people to add memorable legends about each medicinal plant. Not without a beautiful legend about lingonberries. When there was one among the birds who wanted to give people immortality, she took a few drops from the source of life into her beak and flew to give them to the best of people. During the flight, the bird was forced to be silent, and the wasp, considering her silence as a sign of pride, bit her. The bird screamed and splashed the precious liquid. But the drops were not in vain: having sprinkled cedar, spruce, pine and lingonberry, they gave them the property to turn green forever. But people learned to use the magical properties of lingonberries and even began to grow them on their plots, so the bird's heroism was justified.

Planting seedlings makes it possible to harvest the first, albeit small, harvest in a couple of years. The maximum yield occurs at 4-5 years. When planting with seeds, you will collect the first crop only after 4 years, but it will be rather big.

Planting with seeds. Basic actions.

The optimal algorithm for planting seeds is as follows:

  1. Sowing of seeds is carried out in the second half of April, but for 3 months before sowing they are kept in wet sand in a refrigerator or a cold basement at t + 4 °. This process is called stratification.
  2. Sowing is carried out in prepared soil, consisting of three parts of peat or crushed sphagnum and one or two parts of sand, with an acidity of 3-4.5 pH. The air temperature should reach +20 ° C. How to achieve the desired acidity index, read here.
  3. Seedlings appear on the 12th day, some seedlings appear within a month.
  4. When the seedlings reach the state of a bush with 4-5 leaves, they can be planted in a greenhouse, where they will stay for up to a year.
  5. For the winter, plantings are covered with a 5-7 cm layer of mulch + two-layer spunbond over a wire frame.
  6. In the spring, after removing the spanbond, one-year-old plants are planted in a specially prepared plantation for young animals. The distance between the seedlings should be sufficient for the development of the root system (at least 25 × 25 cm).
  7. Lingonberries are transplanted to a permanent place of residence after the bush has ripened for up to two years (30 × 30 and the distance between the rows is 60 cm).
  8. Both in the "school" and at the permanent place of residence, before planting in the soil, consisting of peat and sand, mineral fertilizers of the following composition are applied: ammonium sulfates (7 g) and potassium (3 g) + superphosphate (6 g) for each square meter ...

Seed variety selection

To obtain a medicinal berry, you can use not only Russian, but also foreign breeding varieties, such as "Coral", "Red Pearl", "Erntkrone", "Sussi", "Ida", "Mazovia", "Red Ammerland" and others.

Each type of plant differs from the other in the nuances of the taste of the fruit, the volume of yield, the presence of immunity to diseases and pests. For example, the berries of the frost-resistant Erntkrone variety, bred in Germany, have a rich taste of sweetness and acid in equal measure with a barely noticeable bitterness, the mass of fruits (from a bush - further below) is 40-50 g, have a high immunity to fungal diseases, with proper care, they give two crops a year. The yield is slightly lower than that of the most popular Dutch variety "Coral", but the berries themselves are larger.

Low-growing, but with a voluminous root system, bushes of the Sussi variety, bred by the Scandinavians, yield 200-300 g, but once a year. Disease and pest resistance is high.

The repairing variety "Ida", also of Scandinavian origin, with more compact bushes than "Sussi", begins to bear fruit fully at the age of three and gives up to 140 g.

Produced in Poland, the high-yielding variety "Mazovia" is used not only as a source of medicinal berries and leaves, but also as an excellent decoration for any landscape design.

The most fruitful and perfectly adapted varieties are considered by connoisseurs "Coral", "Rubin" and "Ammerland". They combine the best characteristics of the abovementioned representatives.

Not all summer residents manage to grow lingonberries from seeds recommended by foreign breeders. Many testify that Russian seeds are "better adapted."

When growing lingonberries from seeds at home, many factors are taken into account. And the fact that seeds in specialized stores cost a lot, contributes to the possibility of obtaining planting material collected on existing plantations or in the forest. For this, the most ripe berries are selected and kept in a place where the temperature does not exceed + 5 ° (but also does not drop below + 3 ° C). After that, the seeds are separated from the withered berries and dried for 2-3 days at a temperature of + 20 °, and then they are planted in the soil prepared according to the above technology. Some gardeners plant stratified berries without separating the seeds.

It should be borne in mind that purposefully bred seeds are better adapted to living in conditions outside the forest, therefore, care for plants obtained from self-collected seeds should be more careful in terms of protection from frost, weeds, pests and diseases.

You can read about how to carry out these activities here:

About home seedlings of lingonberry

If lingonberry seedlings are grown on a windowsill at home, there are rules:

  1. Seeds are sown without covering with soil.
  2. The landing box should be placed on the lightest window sill.
  3. Watering as needed, make sure that water does not accumulate in the pan, at the bottom of which drainage should be laid.
  4. Seeds are sown at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Separate containers (pots) can be used instead of a container.

Feeding mode

It is necessary to monitor not only watering (hard water is not recommended), but also to know how to feed lingonberry seedlings grown from seeds. For this purpose, mineral fertilizers used for azaleas and rhododendrons will go. For mulching - sand and crushed sphagnum. To maintain an acidic environment on the 20th day from the rise of crops, you can feed them with the following composition: 3 g of ammonium nitrate and granular superphosphate + potassium sulfate in a volume of 10 g (per 1 m2).

After planting the seedlings in the ground and with the beginning of their flowering, boric acid, potassium sulphate and manganese will fit as top dressing.In the future, acidity should be maintained by introducing the composition every three years. After four years of age of plants, the concentration of the components should be slightly increased, but always remember that it is better not to feed the lingonberry than to overfeed it.

Mulching with sand, gravel, forest litter, sphagnum moss, bark is best done as the layer on the plantation dries up, before winter it is mandatory. If you see that the leaves of your berry are small, like the fruits, you can use Kemiru Universal for intermediate feeding, but in the smallest doses.

Interesting Facts

Gardeners who adopt each other's experience on how to grow lingonberries for seedlings should know that about 70% of seeds emerge when planted in open ground, at home - 40-50% (without stratification). The survival rate of cuttings is 90%.

Seeds can be grown not only at home or in a greenhouse, but in containers installed between the beds, if spring frosts are not expected. It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture (the required soil moisture is 50-60%). In Finland, the distance in a row between the bushes is 10-20 cm, and not 30 cm, as in Russia. Scientists claim that the lingonberry bush can grow for up to 300 years. Swedish researchers have determined the fruiting period in one area as 20 years, after this time it is recommended to change the place of the plantation. Experts remind gardeners of the wonderful properties of pruning, but it is not clear how this happens with a three-hundred-year-old bush in nature.

If you follow all the rules for planting seedlings at home, the process of growing lingonberries can be made much more economical and affordable.


How to grow honeysuckle from seeds

The main »Suburban area» Seedling »How to grow honeysuckle from seeds



Honeysuckle is a garden shrub. In central Russia, it bears fruit first: by mid-June, honeysuckle gives gardeners tasty fruits that taste comparable to strawberries.

This culture propagates by cuttings and seeds. Cutting is carried out according to the standard scheme, but propagation with the help of seeds can be carried out in two ways.

Honeysuckle propagation by green cuttings

About them a little later. Seed germination time is three to four weeks. It is better to start germinating seeds before the start of the gardening season, since the seedlings will be very small at first, and they should be grown up in greenhouse conditions (in rooms or in a mini-greenhouse) before planting in open ground.

However, if you did not succeed in starting in advance, you should not despair either - honeysuckle grows well in the open field right away.

Difference with grafting

There are a few things to look out for when you decide to grow honeysuckle from seed.

  1. Up to two-thirds of seedlings grown from berry seeds will have all the virtues of their variety (for example, flavor shade or berry size). However, there will be no way to immediately distinguish them from seedlings that have lost varietal properties. Sometimes, as a result of growing from seeds, the berries become better, sometimes worse. So, if you want to 100% preserve all the characteristics of the mother plant, choose vegetative methods for propagation of honeysuckle - cuttings or layering, and not sowing.
  2. Plants from seeds begin to bear fruit in 4-5 years, while honeysuckle grown from cuttings will delight you with berries a year after rooting.
  3. Sowing honeysuckle is cheaper than buying cuttings. But this requires much more attention to the seedlings, especially in the early stages, before rooting.
  4. Sowing seeds can be carried out at any time of the year, grow honeysuckle and plant it in the garden.
  5. To get seeds, you just need to take the largest and ripe fruits from the bush.

Only the largest and ripe berries are suitable for obtaining seeds.

Seed propagation without seedlings

Planting takes place in June. You will need seeds from ripe honeysuckle berries. The fruits should be left in the sun for an hour. During this time, a plot of land is being prepared.

Honeysuckle seeds in bags

Choose a sunny location, where there is no strong shading, and the sun shines at least 6 hours a day. Before sowing honeysuckle, the weeds in the future bed are destroyed so that they do not damage the young tender sprouts.

Preparing a place for planting honeysuckle

Next, you need to add compost mixture to the garden bed, level the ground, watering it well.

For each berry, you need a shallow hole (up to 2 cm), which you can make with your finger. Leave at least 10 cm between the holes. Squeeze the seeds from the fruit into the moistened holes: one berry per hole. Sprinkle with a centimeter of earth on top. To prevent the holes from getting lost, highlight them with garden pointers (sticks).

We plant seeds in the ground

The finished bed is closed with polyethylene or covering material. The land is opened for watering once a day. The first watering is carried out with a spray bottle.

If you do not want to do "piece work", you can crush the berries into a glass of water, and stretch a sheet of thin toilet paper over the bed. It needs to be poured with water and seeds. The paper allows the seeds to take hold and be visible immediately.

Sowing seeds with toilet paper

The honeysuckle bed should be fenced off with planks so that the soil does not erode. It is necessary to loosen the soil shallowly, taking care that the seeds do not appear on the surface.

When planting honeysuckle seeds in your garden, pay attention to the weather: showers can erode the soil and damage the planting. If the weather fails, you can arrange a greenhouse over the honeysuckle. He will save from extreme heat and dryness. In dry and hot weather, honeysuckle seedlings need a special irrigation regime.

Frame covered with plastic wrap as a temporary greenhouse

It is worth waiting for shoots no earlier than 2 weeks later. After the sprouts appear, the film is removed, and the weeds are carefully removed.

Throughout the warm season, the seedlings are simply watered and weeded, leaving them before winter. For the cold season, honeysuckle is insulated. In the spring, additional feeding of seedlings is carried out. In the second year, the seedlings need to be cut open, giving another year for rooting in an individual place.

The second variant of seed propagation of honeysuckle: through "seedlings"

Seeds are harvested in season. Large berries (they can be picked from a bush or purchased on the market) wither in the sun for several days.

Next, the berries must be "released" into a small container with water, making sure that there is no berry pulp left on them, otherwise they will rot and not grow. We drain the water from the container and repeat the washing of the seeds until the seeds are clean. Next, they need to be thoroughly dried and removed to a dark place, not forgetting to sign.

Another way to store honeysuckle seeds until planting season is with a food container in the refrigerator. Pour dry sand into the container, slightly moistening it from a spray bottle every two weeks.

Sowing honeysuckle is carried out in the fall or spring. Each berry produces 10 or more seedlings. Before planting, the container is transferred from the refrigerator to the light.

A long box up to 15 cm deep and up to 30 cm wide is well suited for seedlings. The secret of good germination is in a special substrate through which small sprouts of honeysuckle can easily hatch. The land for sowing is prepared as follows: humus + earth + sand (equal amounts) + half a glass of ash. The primer turns out to be light and does not crack when dry. For disinfection, the earth is baked for 15 minutes in the oven.

Disinfection of soil for seedlings

Before planting, the substrate is well moistened, after which it is necessary to make shallow grooves in it (deep on the phalanx of the finger). We try to keep the maximum possible distance between furrows.

Sowing furrows

We sow the seeds in a row, with a step of 2-3 cm and lightly sprinkle with earth. Immediately after watering, wrap the box with foil so that the seeds are warm and moist. Watch out for the moisture content of the substrate!

Example of sowing seed furrow

We remove the film when shoots appear. Honeysuckle seedlings like well-lit places without a draft. It is impossible to fill in the sprouted honeysuckle, since the roots of delicate seedlings can rot, which will lead to the death of the plants.

The film must be removed when the seeds germinate.

Seedlings are watered and aired, gradually accustoming them to natural conditions. By spring, 3-5 true leaves are formed on the plants.

If the box hibernates in the garden, for the cold season it must be hidden indoors or buried in a wheel tire, covering it from above - so the frosts are not terrible for the shrubs, and the box will be protected from rodents. For shelter, roofing paper, paws of conifers, special covering material, or just an old sheepskin coat are suitable.

Seedlings from seeds - picking and planting in "their" place

In the spring, the sprouts grown from seeds are opened wide, seating them wider. If the cultivation takes place in indoor conditions, then each seedling is deposited in its own glass. It is important to spread the root of the plant well when picking. If we are talking about seedlings grown in the ground, they are simply thinned out, leaving the strongest shoots.

An example of honeysuckle sorted into separate containers

It is worth replanting seedlings to a permanent residence after they have wintered 2 winters. In order to facilitate their first years of life, you need to feed them with complex vitamin and mineral fertilizers. Also, it will be useful to add ash under the root.

A permanent place for seed-grown honeysuckle, choose in the sun, so the berry will be sweeter. To transplant, you need to dig a wide hole deep in the palm of your hand, put humus with ash and mineral fertilizers under the root, and water. Then seedlings with a clod of earth are planted in the hole, slightly pressing along the edges. Sprinkle with earth.

On all plantings, the soil must be protected from drying out. Sawdust, humus, spruce branches are suitable for this.

Recommendations for planting honeysuckle

Tips for growing honeysuckle

  1. We recommend planting seedlings in the ground in autumn or spring. Moreover, in the second case, you need to be in time before the onset of sap flow and swelling of the kidneys. Keep in mind that the shrub grows earlier than other shrubs.
  2. Make sure that the roots of the honeysuckle are not exposed: sprinkle them with mulch.

Honeysuckle care in the garden

Video - How to grow honeysuckle from seeds

Nikolay Zhuravlev
Chief Editor

Author of the publication
16.05.2016


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thanks at least some information about breeding from seeds


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