How to properly plant peppers in a snail, the pros and cons of this method


Excellent pepper seedlings can be obtained by growing them in a snail. In order to properly carry out the process of planting pepper seeds and caring for seedlings, you need to find out what the essence of this method is, how to apply it in practice, the pros and cons of planting pepper in a snail.

Planting pepper seeds in a snail

Growing seedlings in snails is available to both experienced and novice gardeners. This planting method is used when you need to save space for seedlings, to get strong shoots with a strong root system. A snail is a soft base, rolled into a roll, on which several dozen seeds can be placed. The snail will take up the same space as one glass or a little more, the seeds will be in it until they are transplanted into the soil (cups, greenhouses).

Pepper seedlings in a snail can be grown by both experienced and novice gardeners.

Pros and cons of this method

Compared to the conventional planting of pepper seeds in pots of soil, the method of germinating them in a snail has both positive and negative sides.

Among the advantages of this method are:

  • saving space and amount of soil, which allows you to grow seedlings in small areas (window sills), about 100 pieces of healthy seedlings can be obtained from one snail, the diameter of which is 20 cm;
  • simplicity of the procedure for planting and leaving;
  • protection of the root system from drying out, overheating;
  • maintaining the integrity of the roots when diving;
  • the ability to control the quality of seeds in the early stages of germination, rejection of weak plants;
  • such seedlings are less likely to stretch and get sick.

    Pepper seedlings in a snail are less likely to get sick

The disadvantages of this planting process include:

  • a somewhat painstaking landing procedure for beginners;
  • the risk of pulling out seedlings due to poor lighting caused by dense planting of seeds.

The most common planting of peppers in snails with soil. Novice gardeners can master this process by following the step-by-step instructions below.

Step-by-step description of planting pepper in a snail with soil

Before carrying out the planting process, you should prepare the necessary materials for it:

  • Seedling soil. It can be bought at a specialist store.

    Soil for pepper seedlings can be purchased in the retail network

  • Underlay for laminate up to 2 mm thick (for easier curling). It is great for creating a snail, as it is a waterproof, porous, soft material. When planting, it is convenient to use a tape 1–1.5 m long and 10 cm wide.

    For ease of twisting the snail, the thickness of the laminate backing should be 2 mm

  • Pepper seeds.
  • Stationery (well stretched) for fastening the structure in the amount of 1–2 pcs. or scotch tape, which is preferable, since it does not overtighten the snail.
  • Low capacity for a snail. It should be 2–5 cm wider than the snail.
  • Tweezers for unfolding seeds.
  • Plastic bag.
  • Spray bottle with water.
  • Sawdust (if possible).

Next, they begin to prepare the workplace. For convenient work with the ground, cover the table with oilcloth. Tray seating can be performed. Place all the necessary materials nearby to make them easier to use.

Then they move on to the process of planting pepper:

  1. Spread out the laminate backing tape, lay about 10 mm soil on it along its entire length.

    Straighten the substrate and spread the earth on it with a layer of 10 mm

  2. Tamp it down a little, slapping it so that it compresses and takes the form of a substrate.
  3. Level the surface well, especially around the edges.
  4. On the surface of the soil on one side of the tape, spread the seeds with a hand or tweezers (at least 2 cm from the edge) at a distance of 1–2 cm from each other.

    Spread the seeds on lightly tamped soil

  5. Carefully roll up the roll of soil and seeds.

    The substrate, together with the soil and seeds, is rolled into a snail

  6. Fasten the resulting snail with tape (rubber bands).

    The resulting snail is secured with an elastic band or tape

  7. Place the bag in a prepared container, on the bottom of which sawdust should first be poured to absorb excess moisture during watering. Wet sawdust also helps the snail's soil stay moist for longer. Place the snail in a container so that the seeds are at the top of this structure. The earth that wakes up during the planting process should be added from above so that it rises slightly above the upper edges of the structure.
  8. All loops of the resulting structure must be carefully watered from a spray bottle with water at room temperature in order to ensure the fastest germination of seeds.
  9. On top of the container in which the snail is standing, put on a bag to maintain the moisture in the soil, which is required for the development of seeds and the emergence of seedlings.
  10. Place the container with the snail in a warm, dark place until sprouting (about a week).

When the first "loops" of plants are formed, the cover is removed from the container, and it is placed with a snail in it on a windowsill well-lit by the sun.

Video: The process of planting pepper seeds in a snail

Planting pepper on toilet paper

You can make a snail differently for planting pepper seeds and use toilet paper instead of soil for it. In this case:

  1. Fold the toilet paper (two-layer) in several layers, place it on the backing (for laminate).
  2. Moisten the paper with spray water.
  3. Put seeds on it at intervals of 1 cm from each other.

    Spread the pepper seeds on moistened toilet paper

  4. Roll the substrate together with paper and seeds, fasten it with tape or an elastic band, place the structure in a low container.

Since there are no nutrients in such a substrate, when the seeds germinate, you should unfold the snail, sprinkle 1 cm of soil on them or transplant the sprouts into cups, other containers. This planting method is rarely used because it has no advantages over standard methods of planting seeds in the ground.

Other ways to plant seeds in snails

Cellophane bags sold in rolls can serve as a substrate for planting peppers in a snail. Bag snails require less space than laminate backing rolls. A container for such a design needs a smaller size, for example, a plastic cup of 250-500 ml.

Snails made from cellophane bags can be placed in small containers

Sowing is carried out in the following order:

  1. Spread out a towel, put a bag on it, reduced in width to 10-15 cm.
  2. Toilet paper is placed on the bag.
  3. Spray it thoroughly with water from a sprinkler.
  4. Seeds are placed on it through an interval of 1 cm.

Further steps are similar to the previous method.

Video: Planting pepper in a snail (roll-up) made of cellophane

There is another interesting way to create a pepper snail - from newspapers. How to make such a construction can be seen below.

Video: Planting pepper in a snail from a newspaper

I heard about the method of planting plants in a snail, but I did not have to plant peppers and other crops in this way. Having met theoretically with him, I will definitely try to plant peppers in a snail. I think this method is quite simple and does not require a lot of time.

The nuances of caring for pepper in a snail, solving problems that arise

Subsequent care for planted pepper seeds is to periodically water them. It is necessary to regularly pour settled water at room temperature at the bottom of the container with the snail, do not allow the soil to dry out, otherwise the seedlings will die.

In order for it to grow and develop normally in a snail, the following nuances must be taken into account:

  • The seedlings can stretch out if it is too late to remove the cellophane from the container in which the snail is standing. The lingering greenhouse effect created in this situation leads to accelerated plant growth and adversely affects yields. Cellophane should be removed when the first shoots form.
  • Plants grow poorly, on the contrary, they stretch out during the early picking procedure. Plant roots must develop to provide young peppers with sufficient nutrients from the soil. It is better to dive seedlings when the roots of planted peppers appear from the bottom edge of the snail.
  • Seeds may not germinate well if the snail is loosely coiled. With such a fixation of the structure, its turns will not hold the ground with seeds, which will lead to the sowing material sliding down. The seedlings will need a lot of strength to reach the top edge of the snail.
  • Pepper seedlings may not grow well in another substrate because the laminate substrate is soft and retains heat and moisture well, which other ancillary materials cannot provide.

Reviews of gardeners about planting in a snail

The process of planting and growing pepper seeds in a snail is simple. It can be implemented in practice by anyone. As a result, he will receive strong pepper seedlings if he adheres to the step-by-step instructions for planting this culture in such unusual pots and takes into account the nuances of its cultivation mentioned above.

[Votes: 1 Average: 2]


Eustoma (lisianthus) - planting, growing and care at home

Eustoma (lisianthus) is a flower about which one could say "a long forgotten past." Previously, it was very popular, but, perhaps, due to the long growth, the flower was no longer cultivated in gardens and on window sills. Only in the last 5-7 years has interest in lisianthus appeared, making it the most popular crop among flower growers. The buds and blossoming flowers of this plant are the embodiment of tenderness that every grower awaits with awe, planting barely visible seeds, and waiting for the first flowers to appear for at least six months. Outwardly, the flowers resemble rosebuds, which became the basis for calling this flower popularly the French (Japanese, Irish) rose, as well as the Texas bell. But is it really that difficult to grow lisianthus in the garden or at home? What are the nuances of planting, growing and caring for annual and perennial plant varieties?


Planting scented tobacco in open ground

When to plant scented tobacco in the ground

The planting of scented tobacco in open ground is carried out when warm weather sets in, the earth warms up and the return frosts pass - from about the second half of May. But two weeks before planting, the seedlings begin to accustom them to the open air, daily exposing the seedlings to the street for a while. At first, the session should last no more than an hour, but gradually the duration of the stay of the seedlings in the air should be increased until it can be there around the clock. And only after that, the seedlings can be planted in the flower garden.

How to plant scented tobacco

Tobacco is grown in an area protected from strong winds and direct sunlight. Decorative types of tobacco are undemanding to the composition of the soil, but its fertility and moisture are important. Poor soil should be dug up with compost or humus in the fall and, if necessary, drainage material should be added to it.

When planting seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to adhere to the scheme developed by specialists: the distance between the holes should be at least 20-30 cm. Keep in mind that tall varieties of scented tobacco can reach almost a meter in height, and large plants need more space. First, the seedlings are stretched to their full height, and then they begin to creep along the ground.

Before planting, a little superphosphate is introduced into the holes, mixed with the ground, and then a seedling with an earthen clod is transferred into the hole, the hole is filled with soil, the surface is tamped and watered.


Pepper "Morozko" and its cultivation

Sweet bell peppers are a popular vegetable crop, delicious fresh and canned, changing the taste of almost any dish for the better. To grow bell peppers and get a good harvest, you need to know some of the subtleties of the process.

Pepper "Morozko" and other varieties

Bell peppers come in many varieties, which can be categorized as early, medium and late. In addition, they differ in color, shape and wall thickness. So, pepper "Morozko" is a medium early variety, it reaches technical ripeness in 115 days, and full (when its color turns red) - in 125 days. The technical ripeness of all varieties presupposes a green color; at this time, the peppers are recommended to be removed and placed in special boxes for ripening.

If the fruits are left on the bush until biological ripeness, then the total yield will be less, since the strength of the plant will be spent on ripening the fruits, and not on the formation of new ones.

In this variety, the fruits are cone-shaped and directed horizontally. The weight of one fruit is about 100 g, the wall thickness is up to 0.7 cm.

Productivity outdoors - 1-2 kg / m2, indoors, of course, will be higher.

Pepper "Morozko" is resistant to diseases, fruitful, has an excellent taste (at least that's what the seed says on the package), why not buy it? Of course, it is worth buying it if you live in Western Siberia, but if in Ukraine, I would not recommend it. The variety intended for the West Siberian region will hardly please the residents of regions and countries with a completely different climate with a high yield; it is better to choose a variety that is zoned in the area of ​​residence.

Growing seedlings

If you are going to get a good harvest of pepper, you need to know some of its features. Pepper seeds, especially large-fruited, sprout poorly and slowly. It is better to pre-soak them in "Epin", "Zircon" or other growth stimulant. When they swell slightly, or better - hatch, they are planted in the ground or peat tablets, lightly sprinkled with earth. It is important to take into account another feature of the plant: it has an extremely negative attitude towards any transplants, it gets sick for a long time after them, and gives a small harvest.

Therefore, if the seeds are planted in the ground, then immediately in a large container in which the seedlings will live until they are planted in open ground or a greenhouse. At the same time, it is important not to deeply deepen the seeds, but only lightly sprinkle them with earth, so that it is easier for them to break through. For the first time, each container must be turned into a mini-greenhouse, covered with polyethylene or glass.

When planting in peat tablets, proceed as follows: put the tablets with the open side up in a container, pour a little water and wait 15 minutes until they absorb it and turn into small barrels. The remaining water is discarded. Next, the seeds are laid out one at a time in the center of each barrel and sprinkled with soil a little.

Further, the container is also turned into a greenhouse, covered with a transparent lid or glass. Peppers sprout for a long time, sometimes up to 2 weeks. All this time, the greenhouses need to be ventilated and humidified.

After the appearance of the seedlings, the greenhouse is eliminated, and when they have a couple of real leaves each, the peat barrels are carefully freed from the net and, together with the peat, without damaging the roots, are planted in a large container.

Pepper care

On a site, in open ground or a greenhouse, seedlings are planted only after the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between the rows - about 50, they need a sufficient feeding area. It is better to do this in cloudy weather or in the evening, deepening the bushes to the cotyledonous leaves. It is imperative to add humus to the holes, otherwise you will not get a good harvest.

At first, the plants are shaded from an overly active sun, then the shelters are removed.Further care consists in watering, weeding, loosening and feeding with mineral fertilizers. The first time the plants are fertilized with superphosphate and urea a couple of weeks after planting. When the first ovaries appear, the plant will need potassium sulfate and superphosphate if there is too little phosphorus in the soil. When the fruits are ripe, the plant is usually fed with wood ash, which is a potash fertilizer.

Peppers are not watered often, but abundantly, 2-3 times a week will be enough. The trunks of plants are gradually lignified, so it is believed that they do not need a garter.

However, some bushes of especially productive varieties break from the weight of their own fruits, in this case they are tied up like tomatoes.

The crop has good keeping quality and the ability to ripen to biological ripeness, already removed.


Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse and care

Minyaeva Julia uses a lot of interesting and unexpected things after transplanting seedlings, the video of planting tomatoes in a greenhouse will tell you about the useful experience of a gardener:

  • how you can do without unnecessary fertilization of the soil by placing poultry in a greenhouse for the winter
  • how to optimally arrange the beds for tomatoes in a greenhouse, planting scheme and growing hot peppers with tomatoes
  • how to water paths using them instead of ditches
  • how to apply sprinkling of tomatoes before flowering and, contrary to traditional ideas, get a good harvest
  • how to ventilate and avoid condensation
  • the better to tie up tomatoes.

Natural organic feeding recipes

If, according to Minaeva, it is better not to feed the seedlings so that they can more easily take root on more fertile soil, then the beds themselves in the greenhouse need to be fertilized both before planting seedlings and during the growing season.

  • Litter from a barn with poultry is used as a manure fertilizer. It is laid deep under the soil, a layer of compost is poured on it, and only then is the fertile soil. Such a bed turns out to be warmer, and its nutritional potential is stretched throughout the season.
  • You can make liquid fertilizer from the cut grass in a barrel. To do this, add soda ash (1 glass) and cut grass to 200 liters of water. Cover the barrel with foil for a week, after which the resulting mixture is diluted with water 1:10 and used for feeding.
  • For yeast feeding that improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, 100 g of dry yeast is diluted in 10 liters of warm water and kept for 3 hours under the sun. Then the resulting mixture is diluted with water 1:20 and the tomatoes are fed.

Minaeva actively shares her experience of planting tomatoes in greenhouses and offer to make sure of their effectiveness by growing part of the crop in the usual way, and part of it according to her methods.


At what distance to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse

Sometimes, even with the observance of agrotechnical rules and sufficient care, the ovary does not appear, and the tomato bushes begin to hurt. The reason lies in the wrong planting of seedlings.

Why thickening plantings is dangerous

If the bushes are planted too thickly, this leads to their shading, which means to late ripening of the fruits. Plants with a strong root system inhibit the development of weaker ones.

Thickening of the planting complicates care. The likelihood of the occurrence of diseases and the appearance of pests increases due to the contact of the leaves of a diseased bush with a healthy one.

Additional Information!
Dense plantings can create a lack of moisture and nutrition, postpone ripening, which will lead to a significant decrease in yield.

However, with the rare placement of seedlings in the greenhouse, the use of the area will be irrational. Therefore, when purchasing seeds, it is necessary to find out which species the variety belongs to. This determines the distances that must be maintained when planting, and the care that the plant will require.

Important!
The yield of tomatoes largely depends on the correct placement of seedlings and the distance between the bushes.

That is why gardeners need to know at what distance to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse, what should be the scheme for planting tomatoes in a greenhouse. The information provided will help give

How far can you plant tomatoes in a greenhouse?

When planting seedlings in a greenhouse, you need to remember that during the entire time of growth, fruiting and harvesting, tomatoes need to create comfortable growing conditions. The whole season requires watering, weeding, feeding, pinching, spraying and hilling bushes. That is, it is necessary to provide free access to each plant.

To provide the best conditions for the growth and development of tomatoes in the greenhouse, it is necessary to comply with the established rules and conditions, one of the main ones is the use of a certain planting scheme: planting tomatoes at a certain distance between the bushes. The frequency of planting bushes depends on the variety.

Observing certain landing patterns, there are obvious advantages:

  • prevention of the appearance of pests and diseases, the likelihood of which increases with thickened plantings
  • supplying tomatoes with sufficient area for development
  • ease of caring for tomato plantings, ease of performing all necessary procedures (watering, feeding, etc.).

Correct landing distance

The distance between the bushes when planting seedlings is determined by the type of tomatoes, there are three of them.

Undersized or standard:

  • plant height does not exceed 50 cm
  • root system - compact
  • thick sturdy trunks
  • no garter needed.

Undersized or standard

Low-growing varieties are planted in 6 - 7 bushes per square meter.

Medium-sized (determinant):

  • height up to 1.5 m (the plant itself limits growth)
  • it is necessary to form a bush
  • Planted in 3 - 4 bushes per square meter.

Tall (indeterminate):

  • intensive growth
  • height over 3 m
  • need a garter, pinching, pinching.

On a note.
No more than 2 bushes are planted per square meter.

There are several technologies for planting seedlings.

The most common is planting in rows. With this method, markings are made and seedlings are planted in rows. This method requires large areas, which is not suitable for greenhouses.

With a parallel planting, two rows are made between the aisles, which saves space, but the convenience of caring for the plants remains. So you can plant any variety, regardless of the height of the bushes. The distance between bushes in a row varies from 60 to 65 cm, between rows - 25-45 cm, depending on the height of the bushes. The passage between the beds is left 80-100 cm. This scheme is used when planting seedlings in a greenhouse.

On a note!
Some shading of the bushes is considered a disadvantage of this method.

With the simultaneous planting of undersized and tall varieties, they use a combined planting scheme, when tall ones are planted in the center of the bed, and undersized ones along the edges, which provides free access to any bush. Space is saved, the method is suitable for greenhouses.

How to calculate the planting density of tomatoes

For planting, 2 - 3 beds are used - this is the best scheme for planting tomatoes in a greenhouse with a size of 3 × 6 meters.

Two beds are placed along the side walls of the polycarbonate greenhouse, their width does not exceed 1 m. You can use a parallel planting of seedlings, but it is better to place the bushes in a checkerboard pattern. This will plant approximately 60 bushes. Tomatoes are planted in the greenhouse so that the distance between the bushes meets the standards for a particular variety.

If you organize 3 beds according to the scheme: the outer ones along the walls are 60 cm wide, and the middle one is 1 m, the width of each path between the beds will be 40 cm.

It is recommended to plant low-growing early varieties on the outer beds, and mid-season tall tomatoes on the middle one. This placement will provide sufficient lighting for all bushes.

Note!
Varieties with different ripening periods can be planted on each row. This planting will allow you to place up to 90 bushes.

In a greenhouse of 3 × 8 m, it will be possible to place 40 more bushes.

Planting rules for tall tomato varieties in a greenhouse

Each tomato variety should be planted according to a specific pattern.

Most gardeners prefer to grow tall varieties in a greenhouse; with a smaller number of bushes and occupied area, you can get a high yield and they will bear fruit until the fall.

Tall varieties of tomatoes

When growing tall varieties, space is significantly saved, because one stem gives up to 10 fruit clusters and it is not necessary to plant a large number of bushes to get a good harvest.

Tall varieties are planted, keeping the distance between the bushes 50 - 70 cm, and between the rows - 70 - 100 cm.

Important!
Do not forget to tie tall bushes to the supports.

Low-growing varieties are grown in a greenhouse and a greenhouse, mainly early ripening, due to an early harvest. They do not require much space: it is enough to leave up to 30 cm between the bushes, and the row spacing - up to 50 cm.

Tips and tricks for gardeners

Before planting seedlings, you need to carefully prepare the greenhouse.

They start with preparing the soil. In the spring it is dug up, adding humus and complex mineral fertilizers. 7 - 10 days before planting seedlings, it is necessary to disinfect the ground in order to destroy the larvae of wintering pests and free them from pathogens of various diseases.

Note!
Indoor conditions, created artificially, should have a beneficial effect on planted tomatoes, promote plant adaptation and rapid growth.

If you have to plant a small number of bushes (10 - 15), you can do without planning. When planting whole beds, it is necessary to calculate the required number of seedlings. Decide on the size of the beds and the aisles between them. Have all the tools and materials for marking:

  • ropes
  • pegs
  • measuring meter or marker (from a wooden board) for clearly marking the location of the holes.

When choosing the location of seedlings in a greenhouse or greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the placement of bushes, which differ from planting in open ground. Due to the limited area of ​​greenhouses, you have to save usable area, using it rationally.

On a note.
Large gaps between the bushes stimulate the growth of leaves, promote the appearance of a significant number of branches, and slow down the ripening of fruits.

Important!
If the planting is too dense, there is a lack of sunlight and the received food, which can lead to the death of the bushes.

It is necessary to take into account the average recommended rates when placing seedlings:

  • provide an area of ​​at least 0.3 square meters per plant
  • distance between bushes in one row - 40 cm
  • between rows 50 - 60 cm.

These values ​​vary depending on the type and variety of tomato.

The plantings should not be allowed to thicken, the plants will not receive enough light and nutrients, in addition, the likelihood of the appearance of diseases and pests increases.

When choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account what crops were grown here last season. Unwanted predecessors:

  • bell pepper
  • potatoes
  • eggplant.

Tomatoes will feel comfortable where they used to grow:

  • cucumbers
  • cabbage
  • zucchini
  • peas
  • garlic
  • onion.

After marking the beds, they begin to create holes, their diameter depends on the selected varieties:

  • 20 cm - for low-growing tomatoes
  • 30 cm - for tall people.

Hole depth: 12 - 15 cm.

2 liters of a hot solution of potassium permanganate of a slightly pink color are poured into the prepared wells. When the liquid is absorbed, a seedling with an earthen clod is placed in the hole, deepening to the first lower leaves. Loose earth is poured on top, slightly compacted and mulched with peat or humus.

On a note.
When the plants grow, it is necessary to monitor and remove the lower leaves and emerging stepchildren in time.

To obtain a high yield, the placement of seedlings in the greenhouse plays an important role. When planting tomato seedlings, you must adhere to the recommended standards, correctly mark the beds and the aisles between them in order to create favorable conditions for the development of tomatoes, get free access to each plant and provide proper care.

Video


Pepper variety "Morozko" - a favorite of summer residents and gardeners

Bell pepper is a vegetable crop loved by many. Every gardener dreams of getting a good harvest in a short time, he wants to plant plants that are resistant to adverse weather that do not need special care. Sweet Bulgarian pepper "Morozko" meets all these requirements.

Pepper "Morozko": description and characteristics

"Morozko" is planted both in open beds and in a greenhouse.

Bushes grow up to 80 cm, dense, compact, form a stem. The leaves are green, small, slightly wrinkled. Fruits are pyramidal, with a thick wall up to 5-7 mm, large, weighing up to 100 g. The pulp when ripe is bright red, very aromatic.

The variety is early maturing. Reaches technical ripeness in 110-115 days, and full ripeness in 125.

High-yielding. During the season, from one bush, on which about 30 fruits are tied, you can collect up to 2 kg of peppers, in a greenhouse - up to 3 kg.

Advantages of the variety

Pepper variety "Morozko" is a pantry of useful substances. The fruits are rich in carotene, glucose, protein and mineral salts, as well as vitamins E, C, B1, P1, B3.

It is distinguished by the following advantages:

  • disease resistance
  • unpretentious care
  • resistance to weather changes
  • simple cultivation techniques
  • high yield
  • large fruits
  • unusually strong pulp aroma
  • high content of ascorbic acid and vitamins, which are not lost during storage
  • excellent taste: peppers are equally good when fresh, stuffed, canned.

Growing seedlings

In late February or early March sweet pepper varieties "Morozko" are sown for seedlings.

When choosing seeds, it must be remembered that they remain viable for no more than 3 years.

First, the inoculum is disinfected: it is kept in a weak solution of manganese for 20 minutes. Then they are washed and treated with a growth stimulant ("Epin" or "Zircon") so that the seedlings are more friendly.

When the seeds hatch, they are planted in previously prepared and disinfected soil or in peat tablets to a depth of 2 cm, sprinkling with a little earth.

You can sow peppers in large containers or separate pots, then the sprouts will be in them before planting in a greenhouse or in open ground.

So that the top layer of the soil does not dry out, immediately after sowing, the containers are covered with film or glass: a kind of greenhouse with a special microclimate is obtained. The containers are regularly ventilated and moistened.

  • After two weeks, the first shoots appear, and the film or glass is removed.
  • The room temperature is kept constant within the range of 26-28 ° С during the day and about 15-18 ° С at night.
  • When the seedlings have 2 true leaves, they dive.

Top dressing of seedlings

To make the seedlings strong and viable, fertilize 3 times.

Feeding time Amount of fertilizer per 1 liter of water

After the appearance of 1-2 true leaves 3 g superphosphate,
1 g of potash fertilizers
0.5 g of ammonium nitrate
14 days after the first feeding 6 g superphosphate
2 g of potash fertilizers
1 g of ammonium nitrate
Before planting in open ground 8 g of potash fertilizers

All substances are well dissolved in pre-settled water at room temperature and the resulting composition is watered at the root of the plants.

Many gardeners use complex mineral fertilizers (N: P: K% 12.5: 17.5: 25). It can be used for seedlings growing both in the garden and indoors.

Transplant to open ground or greenhouse

The seedlings are moved to the garden in late May-early June, when there is no threat of frost, to an unheated greenhouse - from May 15.

Two weeks before planting in a permanent place, gardeners recommend tempering the pepper: expose containers with bushes for a short time to fresh air.

Landing place

Pepper "Morozko" loves well-lit areas where cabbage, carrots, onions, and legumes were previously grown.

The soil in the garden should be:

  • light, loose
  • well hydrated
  • acidity neutral
  • rich in minerals and fertilized.

Plants are planted in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Landing scheme

The peppers need a sufficient feeding area, so they are planted in the greenhouse according to the scheme 50X30 cm, in the ground - 45X45 cm.The depth of the holes is 15 cm. Humus is added to each depression.

Seedlings are carefully removed from the containers, being careful not to damage the roots. The plants are deepened to the cotyledonous leaves. After planting, the garden is watered.

Rules for caring for peppers in the open field

In order for plants to grow strong and healthy, you must follow the rules of care:

  • water 2-3 times a week with warm, settled water after sunset
  • feed regularly (2 weeks after planting, fertilize with superphosphate and urea, when the first ovaries appear - potassium sulfate and superphosphate, during the ripening period of pepper - wood ash)
  • tie up if the bushes bend under the weight of the fruit
  • loosen and weed the beds in a timely manner
  • remove leaves and side shoots on the main stem up to the first fork
  • pinch off the central flower from the first branch.

Possible diseases and how to treat them

Most often, peppers are affected by gray rot and late blight.

They fight gray rot by spraying the bushes with garlic infusion. To do this, 30 g of chopped garlic is infused in 10 liters of water for 2 days.

With late blight, when brown spots appear on the plants, they are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Harvesting

Pepper fruits reach technical maturity in about 115 days. They are carefully removed from the bush, leaving a small stalk, and placed in boxes for ripening. Timely harvest gives the plant the strength to set new fruits.

Morozko pepper lecho recipe for gourmets

Finding a way to prepare delicious lecho often takes too much time, so we bring to your attention a unique, author's recipe.

  • 2 kg (peeled) bell pepper "Morozko"
  • 2 kg of ripe tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 3 tbsp. l. 9% vinegar
  • 1 tbsp. l. salt.

Cooking sequence:

  1. Wash the pepper thoroughly, first removing the seeds and stalk.
  2. Cut the fruit into long strips or cubes.
  3. Wash the tomatoes, cut into large wedges and twist in a meat grinder.
  4. Pour the tomato into a saucepan, put on the fire, add salt, sugar, vegetable oil, stirring occasionally, bring to a boil.
  5. Put pepper in the boiling mass and cook for about 30 minutes more, stirring all the time.
  6. At the very end, add vinegar to the thickened mass, mix well.
  7. Put the finished lecho into sterilized glass jars, roll up, turn them upside down.

A delicious snack for the winter is ready!

If you know the simple peculiarities of growing sweet bell pepper "Morozko" and follow all the rules of caring for it, you can get an excellent harvest. Even a novice gardener can grow this tasty and healthy vegetable.


Watch the video: 5 Pepper Growing Mistakes to Avoid


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