Ahimenez: How to Raise a Charming Brazilian Flora

Our whole life is surrounded by flowers. Sometimes we get used to them so much that we just don't notice. Ahimenes is one of those flowers that cannot be overlooked. Prolonged flowering, a variety of shapes and colors of petals and leaves are the indisputable advantage of the plant. Ahimenez just needs a little attention when growing and easy care, and the flower will reward with long-term freshness and luxury of flowering.

The origin of achimenes and a description of his appearance

Ahimenes is a herbaceous perennial that has a long flowering period.... The plant is native to the rainforests of Central and South America.

Naturally, achimenes grows in the rainforests of Central and South America.

Each flower blooms and lasts only a few days, but more and more bloom instead. Moreover, the shape and color of the petals in different species of this plant can be very diverse. This is one of the important advantages of achimenes, as it allows you to have flowering plants in the house for six months.

Ahimenes translated from Greek means "afraid of the cold."

Some Achimenes have erect stems. There are also species with an ampelous bush shape. All this makes it possible to select options for decorating a room, veranda and balcony.

A prerequisite is the air temperature +22 ° C-25 ° C. The plant is thermophilic, does not tolerate drafts and wind.

The shape and color of the petals in different species of this plant can be varied.

Varieties of achimenes

Achimenes was first discovered and described in 1756. It happened on about. Jamaica. The active breeding of its varieties began at the end of the 20th century and today there are about fifty species of achimenes, each of which has a unique shape and color of flowers and leaves.

In indoor conditions, the most common varieties are:

  • Achimenes white (Achimenes candida) with white and yellow flowers;
  • large-flowered achimenes (Achimenes grandiflora) with erect stems and red-purple flowers;
  • erect achimenes (Achimenes erecta) with red flowers;
  • Achimenes fimbriata with white flowers;
  • Achimenes Mexican (Achimenes mexicana) with large purple, white, pink and purple flowers;
  • Achimenes heterophylla with orange flowers;
  • long-flowered achimenes (Achimenes longiflora) has a pronounced ampelous form with shoots up to 30 cm long and with flowers of lilac-blue, white or red color;
  • Achimenes hybrida (Achimenes hybrida) with flowers of various shades.

Species diversity of Achimenes in the photo

Requirements for placement, lighting and watering - table

SeasonLightingContent temperatureHumidity
Spring SummerAhimenes is photophilous and thermophilic, but direct sunlight, especially in summer, can burn him, so the plant needs to be shaded. Ahimenes can be placed on a window facing the West or East, as well as on a loggia or balcony.+ 25-27 ° CPrefers high humidity.
Autumn winterA dark place is required.+ 16-18 ° СHumidity doesn't matter.

Planting and transplanting a flower

Achimenes should be transplanted and planted in late February and early March.

Making up the potting mix

The substrate for the Achimenes is quite loose, most often it includes:

  • leaf humus (3 parts);
  • sod land (2 parts);
  • sand (1 part).

Some growers recommend adding humus and peat. The plant is not very picky about the soil. You can use a mixture for decorative flowering plants or a ready-made substrate for violets, but you must definitely make good drainage, since Achimenes are sensitive to stagnation of water in a pot.

Choosing a flower pot

Ahimenes needs a small planting container. The tighter the pot, the more abundantly the plant will bloom. To plant 2-3 rhizomes (scaly rhizomes of achimenes), a pot 10 cm in diameter is enough. Choose a wide, but shallow pot, since the root system of the achimenes is shallow and small.

Step by step instructions: how to plant rhizomes

  1. Shake out the upper part of the old soil from the container with achimenes.

  2. Select all rhizomes carefully and carefully.
  3. Examine the scaly rhizomes. Healthy rhizomes should be firm and firm. Throw away all dry and moldy ones, as only healthy planting material will ensure good flowering.

    Healthy rhizomes should be reddish-pink.

  4. Divide large rhizomes into several parts by cutting them with a clean knife.

  5. Make good drainage at the bottom of the container. Pour small pebbles or expanded clay into the pot with a layer of 1.5 cm.

    Drainage is needed to aerate the roots

  6. Fill the container with soil. Moisten the ground with warm water.

  7. Spread the rhizomes on the surface of the substrate at a distance of 2 centimeters from each other
  8. Sprinkle them on top with a layer of earth 1.5–2 cm thick.

    The distance between the rhizomes when planting should be about 2 cm

  9. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and place the resulting mini-greenhouse in a dark place.
  10. Do not water anymore before germination, but be sure to ventilate twice a day.
  11. After about 2-3 weeks, the first leaves will appear. At this time, move the achimenes pot to a sunny place with diffused light.
  12. Treat the flower as if it were an adult plant.

    Achimenes sprouts after planting appear in 2-3 weeks

Video: planting rizom achimenes

Nuances of care

When a flower enters a phase of active development, it needs regular moisture and feeding.

Watering and feeding

Like any plant, achimenes needs water, while watering is recommended to be carried out carefully, only in such an amount that the top layer of soil in the pot does not dry out, that is, it should be moderate. The water temperature is desirable not lower than +20 ° С. The procedure should be carried out with tap water at room temperature, standing for 1-2 days.

The ingress of moisture on the leaves and, especially on the flowers of achimenes, will cause the appearance of brown spots on them. You cannot spray the plant. At the same time, it is very fond of high humidity. This can be achieved by using a pallet with damp moss or other material on which the pot is installed. Water, slowly evaporating from the pan, will create additional moisture around the bush without damaging the leaves.

A month and a half after planting with rhizomes, young Achimenes require frequent feeding. Fertilizer is applied every week in liquid form. For this, complex fertilizers for flowering flowers are suitable; Agricola, Pokon, Etisso preparations give a very good effect.

How to make achimenes bloom?

The flowering of the Ahimenes is long, it lasts continuously from May to October. To make it as bright as possible, the flower should be provided with certain conditions and care.

The flowering of the Ahimenes is long, it lasts continuously from May to October.

The first rule is to ensure the necessary conditions during the rest period: a dark place with a temperature of 16-18 ºC and poor watering once a month.

The second is pinching. Achimenes should be formed by cutting off the tops of all young shoots. To create a beautiful bush, you should carry out the procedure three times with an interval of 2-3 weeks.

And finally, the third condition is the removal of wilted flowers. This technique will stimulate the emergence of new buds in place of the faded ones.

How to provide care for achimenes during the rest period?

In the autumn, the flower stops growing and stops blooming. These are signs of the beginning of the "sleep" period of Ahimenes. At this time, watering is reduced and gradually stopped completely. When the leaves and shoots dry up, they are cut off without leaving any stumps.

Rhizome pots are placed in a dark, dry and cool place. The optimum temperature for storing Achimenes in winter is + 16-18 ºC. To prevent the rhizomes from drying out, once a month, the topsoil in the pot is slightly moistened.

In mid-February-early March, the flower needs to be "woken up". The pots with rhizomes are removed from the shelter and the rhizomes are transplanted into a fresh substrate.

How do care errors appear - table

ProblemWhat caused it?How to fix the situation?
Gray fluffy bloom on the plantExcess watering
  • Limit watering.
  • Remove the top layer of the substrate, add new soil.
  • Treat the ground with any fungicide according to the instructions.
Flowers are small and inconspicuousLack of micronutrientsFeed with complex fertilizer.
Dry brown spots on the leaves, the buds are crumbling.Sunburn
  • Remove damaged leaves.
  • Shade the flower from direct sunlight with a curtain or move it to another place with diffused light.
Brown leaf tipsDry indoor air
  • Put sphagnum moss or pebbles in a tray and moisten periodically.
  • Spray the air around the plant.
The sheet plates are curledExcess watering
  • Transfer the achimenes into a small container.
  • Reduce watering.

Table: achimenes disease, treatment and prevention

Achimenes is practically not affected by such fairly common insects as whitefly, aphids or spider mites. However, fusarium, root rot, ring spotting are especially dangerous for him.

DiseaseHow to recognizeHow to treatPrevention measures
FusariumLeaves and shoots begin to lose turgor and then rot.
  • Dig up the plant, examine the rhizomes, remove the rotten ones, cut off the damaged shoots and leaves.
  • Treat the rhizomes with Maxim and plant them in a fresh substrate.
  • Treat during flowering with Fitosporin and Trichodermin.
  • Do not overmoisten the substrate.
Ring spotLight spots appear on the leaf plates, which subsequently turn brown.Move the plant to a sunny place, remove all damaged leaves and spray with Fitosporin solution (according to the instructions).
  • Water the achimenes with warm, settled water after the top layer of the soil has dried.
  • Avoid drafts.
Root rotThe leaves lose their turgor, the shoots turn black and rot.
  • Cut off all affected parts.
  • Remove rhizomes from the soil and remove everything affected by rot.
  • Treat the rhizome with Maxim (according to the instructions).
  • Plant the rhizomes in fresh substrate.
  • Before planting, treat the rhizomes with a fungicide (according to the instructions).
  • Adjust the watering mode.

Photo gallery: diseases specific to achimenes

Reproduction nuances

The flower reproduces:

  • seeds,
  • rhizomes (scaly rhizomes),
  • cuttings.

Reproduction by rhizomes is no different from the process of transplanting them in the spring after a dormant period. And the seed method and cuttings have their own characteristics.

Growing from seeds

If you try to breed achimenes using seeds, then this process will take a significant amount of time, since a flowering plant in this case can be obtained only after two years. This method is optimal for obtaining a large number of specimens, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to preserve varietal properties when propagating by seeds.

Achimenes is propagated by seeds as follows:

  1. A loose substrate is poured into a bowl and moistened.
  2. Seeds are spread over the surface. Do not sprinkle with soil.
  3. The container with the landings is covered with glass and placed in a bright place with bottom heating.
  4. An impromptu greenhouse is ventilated daily and condensation is wiped off the glass.
  5. As necessary, moisten the plantings from a spray bottle.
  6. When 3-4 true leaves appear, the seedlings dive into separate cups filled with a nutritious substrate.
  7. Seedlings are looked after in the same way as for adult Achimenes.

Propagation by cuttings

Achimenes can be propagated by cuttings quickly and easily enough. For this:

  1. The stem is cut off at the base, its top is removed, the remainder of the stem is cut into two equal parts, so that 2-3 deciduous nodes remain on them.
  2. The cuttings are placed in a moist substrate (you can use a substrate for Saintpaulias and cyclamens, with the addition of vermiculite and sand).
  3. The container is covered with glass and placed in a place with bottom heating. For example, a dish is placed on a radiator or placed on a tray with hot water. The distance of the greenhouse to the water surface is 4–5 cm.
  4. Then make sure that the topsoil in the greenhouse does not dry out. If necessary, lightly spray it with water at room temperature.
  5. After two weeks, the cuttings can give roots and rhizomki. In the future, they are looked after as if they were adult specimens.

Two weeks after planting, cuttings can give roots.

Florist reviews







Svetlana Yurievna


Video: care and maintenance of achimenes at home

Any plant requires an individual approach. Of great importance are the climatic conditions under which, even in indoor conditions, this or that flower is grown. An important role is played by the experience of its owner in matters of floriculture. But compliance with the basic requirements for optimal conditions for keeping and breeding achimenes will allow this species to be kept in the home collection, and over time, the necessary experience will come to improve these conditions and expand the range of flower species that give us the beauty of nature.

Aglaonema: all the nuances of flower care at home + photos and videos

The Aglaonema plant is a member of the aroid family. This genus unites about 20-50 species. The plant in natural conditions is found in the rain forests of the tropical part of New Guinea, the Malay Archipelago, as well as in Southeast Asia along the river banks in the lower strip of forests and plains.

Features of aglaonema

Aglaonema is an evergreen herb. The stem is short and straight, rather fleshy. There are species in which the trunk begins to branch at the base. The stem is present only in adult plants, while its formation occurs due to the flying around of the lower leaf plates. The color of the foliage directly depends on the type and variety of the plant. The form of dense leathery to the touch leaf plates are ovoid or lanceolate. They are attached to the trunk with stalks, which can be long or short. The edge of the leaves is solid, while the plate is patterned, and on its front surface there is a depressed midrib, while on the seamy side it is convex. At the top of the plant, from the axils of the leaves grow from 1 to 3 ears, which have a greenish-white cover, they are the inflorescences of the aglaonema. Depending on the type of plant, the cobs are divided into 2 types:

  • thick clavate - reach 10 mm in diameter, and their length is 40 mm
  • thin cylindrical - their length is about 60 mm, and in diameter they reach 5 mm.

The fruit is a juicy berry, inside which there is 1 seed, which has a rich orange or white color. The berries ripen after 6–8 months.

Home care for aglaonema


In the wild, aglaonema prefers to grow in shaded areas. In this regard, when grown at home, the plant needs partial shade. If direct sunlight falls on the foliage, burns may form on it. If a variegated form is grown, then it will need bright diffused sunlight, otherwise its decorative effect will be lost.

Temperature regime

In the summer, the plant feels great at a temperature of 20-25 degrees, while in winter it should not be lower than 16 degrees. The plant should be protected from drafts, because they can destroy it. Also, the flower reacts extremely negatively to sudden changes in temperature.

How to water

Aglaonema is poured with exceptionally soft water. Abundant watering is carried out immediately after the top layer of the substrate dries. The plant especially needs timely watering in the spring and summer, when it has a growing season. In winter, watering is carried out a couple of days after the top layer of the substrate dries out. It should be remembered that such a flower can be destroyed by both drying out of an earthen coma and stagnation of liquid in the substrate.

Air humidity

Such a plant needs high air humidity, which means that it needs to be systematically moistened from a sprayer and not only. If there is an excessively low air humidity in the room where the aglaonema is located, then the development of its leaf plates will slow down, and their deformation will also occur, while the tips and edges of the plates will dry out. To increase the humidity of the air, experienced florists advise, pour pebbles or expanded clay into the pallet and pour a small amount of water into it, and put a flower pot on top. Make sure that the liquid and the bottom of the pot do not touch. In autumn and winter, if the room is cool, spraying should be done with great care.


In winter, aglaonema does not need feeding. The plant should be fed from the first spring to the last summer days 1 time in 2 weeks, while it is necessary to alternately use mineral fertilizers and organic matter. The concentration of the nutrient solution should be the same as indicated on the fertilizer package.


Young plants are transplanted once a year in spring. Adult bushes should be transplanted in the same way in the spring, but much less often (1 time in 4 or 5 years). The substrate for planting such a flower should consist of humus and leafy earth, sand, charcoal and peat, which are taken in a ratio of 1: 6: 2: 2: 1. You can take a soil mixture consisting of leafy earth, peat and sand (2: 1: 1), a small amount of fine charcoal should be poured into it. To prevent stagnation of water in the ground, when planting at the bottom of the pot, you need to make a good drainage layer. This flower can be grown hydroponically.

Is aglaonema poisonous

If the juice of the bush itself or its fruits gets on the skin or mucous membrane, irritation may appear on them. When the flower is finished, wash your hands with soap and water.

Reproduction methods

Propagation of aglaonema by cuttings

Aglaonema can be propagated by cuttings only after the branching of its trunk begins, or when the trunk is clearly visible after the end of the rosette stage. The stem must be cut off, as is done with the apical cutting. After that, it is divided into several parts, each of which should be 90–100 mm long, with leaf plates on each handle. Leave the cuts for 24 hours in the open air to dry and do not forget to treat the cuts with chopped charcoal. Then the cut end of the cutting must be buried 50 mm into a substrate consisting of sand and peat. The container with cuttings is removed to a warm place (from 22 to 25 degrees), if everything is done correctly, the roots should appear within 4 weeks. If the bottom heating is used during rooting, the cuttings will give roots after 20 days. In the absence of a mini-greenhouse, cuttings are recommended to be carried out in spring or summer. Once the stems have taken root, they should be planted in separate pots filled with the substrate used to plant the adult aglaonema.

Growing from seeds

If you take care of this plant correctly, then it is quite possible that it will bloom in the summer. It should be noted that the veil-inflorescence is not of particular decorative value. It happens that such a plant undergoes self-pollination, as a result, ruby ​​or orange berries are formed in it. Wait until the fruits ripen directly on the bush, after which they can be used for sowing. It should be noted that with this method of reproduction, it is not always possible to preserve the varietal characteristics of aglaonema.

From the pulp of the fruit, you need to extract the seeds, which are thoroughly washed under running water, and after that they are sown in bowls filled with a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1). You should not store the seeds, because they quickly lose their germination.

Crops must be removed to a warm place and systematically watered. The seedlings will appear relatively quickly. As soon as the first true leaf plates are formed, the plant should be cut into small separate pots. After the bushes grow up, they are transplanted into larger pots. After 3 or 4 years, you will already have developed bushes.


This plant is also propagated by dividing the rhizome, which is produced during transplantation.

Possible problems

  1. The foliage shrivels and the tips turn brown... The room has extremely low air humidity, because of this, various harmful insects can also settle on the flower. Do not forget to regularly moisten the bush from a spray bottle, and also pour water into the pan, having previously poured peat or expanded clay into it.
  2. Twisting the foliage... This is observed with a sharp drop in temperature or if the flower has been exposed to a draft. As a rule, in addition to curling on the plates, the edges turn brown.
  3. White-yellow specks formed on the foliage... They appear as a result of sunburn. The bush is removed in partial shade and waited until it cools down, and then its foliage is moistened with water at room temperature.
  4. Slow growth of the bush, foliage becomes brown... The plant was watered with cold or hard water. Water aglaonema only with water that has settled well for at least 24 hours. To soften the water, 0.2 grams of oxalic acid is poured into 1 bucket, everything is well stirred and left for 24 hours. You can also soften the water with citric acid.

Of the pests, spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies and thrips can settle on the plant.

Types of aglaonema with photos and names

Aglaonema brilliant (Aglaonema nitidum)

This species comes from damp forests located on the plains of Thailand, Malaysia, Sumatra and Kalimantan. The height of the trunk is about 100 cm. The length of the rich green or dark green leaf plates is about 45 centimeters, and the width is ―20 centimeters. Their shape is oblong, and the front surface is shiny. The inflorescences consist of 2-5 flowers. The length of the cob is 60 mm, it is covered with a blanket of almost the same length. The berries are white.

Aglaonema changeable (Aglaonema commutatum), or aglaonema changeable

The plant is native to the Philippines and Sulawesi. The length of the straight stem can vary from 0.2 to 1.5 m. Long-petiolate leaf plates reach 30 centimeters in length and 10 centimeters in width. The inflorescences consist of 3–6 flowers. The length of a thin cob is 60 mm, it is covered with a longer greenish veil. When red fruits are formed, the bush looks more impressive. Varieties:

  • warburgii - white stripes run along the lateral veins on the leaf plate
  • elegans - on the elongated-oval greenish leaf plates there is a pattern of light green color
  • maculatum - on the surface of dark green elongated oval leaf plates there are white strokes.

Aglaonema oblong-leaved (Aglaonema marantifolium)

A plant native to the rainforests of the tropical regions of Singapore and the Philippines, as well as the islands of Borneo and Penang. The length of large dark green leaf plates is about 0.3 m. They have petioles reaching 0.2 m in length. Some varieties have a gray-silver pattern on the foliage surface.

Painted Aglaonema (Aglaonema pictum)

A native of the humid forests found on the islands of Sumatra and Borneo. The height of the branching trunk is about 0.6 m. The shape of the large dark green leaf plates is elongated-elliptical. On their surface, specks of gray color are unevenly located. In some varieties, these spots are colored silvery-white. The berries are red.

Aglaonema ribbed (Aglaonema costatum)

Originally from the humid forests found in the tropical part of Southwest Malaysia. This herbaceous plant has a trunk branching at the base. The length of the leaf plates is about 20 centimeters, and the width is 10 centimeters. On the surface of the green dense foliage there are specks and strokes of white color.

Aglaonema modestum, or moderate aglaonema

Originally a species from humid forests located on the slopes of the tropical parts of Indochina and the Malay Archipelago. The height of the branching trunk is about 50 cm. The oval green leaves have a blunt base and a sharp top, they reach 20 centimeters long and 9 centimeters wide. On each side of the central vein, there are several pieces of convex lateral veins. Red berries are similar to dogwood fruits.

Seasonal home conditions - table

SeasonLightingHumidityTemperatureAir compositionOptimal location
SpringIntense, diffuseHigh:

Important! Fittonia suffers from drafts and sudden changes in temperature, so it is not recommended to leave it on an opening window during the cold season. Summer outdoor exposure is also contraindicated for the plant. It can lose its elegant color not only from a lack of light, but also from excessive direct lighting.

Planting Badan and care in the open field

Today we will look at growing Badan from seeds in the open field and find out what are the features in caring for a plant. Let's discuss the prevention of diseases and pests. We will also analyze common mistakes made by florists and answer the most common questions.

Badan is a herbaceous perennial plant with medicinal and ornamental value. In its natural environment, it grows in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere. Badan can be found on the territory of Primorye, Altai Territory, Siberia. Grows well on mountain slopes, rocky and forest-steppe areas.

Badan has a powerful root system. The leaves are large, leathery, remain green until late autumn, which allows this plant to be attributed to the group of evergreens.

However, the leaves of some types of Badan in the fall acquire a bronze, brown or burgundy hue. The plant forms a rosette.

Read also the article: → "Growing garden yucca: planting, care, breeding features"

Blooms from late March to late May. Depending on the species and variety, Badan flowers are colored pink, purple, white and red. The flowers are goblet or bell-shaped. Flowers are collected in paniculate inflorescences located on a high peduncle.

The diameter of Badan flowers is not more than 2 cm.In one inflorescence, there are up to 120 flowers

Growing Badan from seeds in the open field: conditions

Badan grows well on light and loose soils. Well tolerates alkaline and moist soils. For planting Badan, areas located in partial shade or under the canopy of tall trees are suitable. When planted in a sunny area, the growth and development of the plant is weakened, spots in the form of burns form on the leaves, the inflorescences are drooping, the flowers quickly fade.

The horizontal roots of the plant are located close to the soil surface, therefore, it is difficult to tolerate dry areas.

To protect the root system, the soil is mulched, which allows it to retain moisture on the driest days.

The main care for badan is watering and thinning.

The plant should be watered frequently, but in moderation, avoiding waterlogging of the soil. The thinning procedure is carried out in order to prevent the development of disease and pests.

Badan is a ground cover plant, forms dense thickets, thanks to which it clogs weeds

Step-by-step instructions for growing Badan from seeds

Badan begins to bear fruit in the second half of July and ends in mid-August. The seeds are contained in a dry capsule. Each box contains several hundred seeds. Seeds are small up to 2 mm.

Sowing seeds can be done in open ground and sown in containers for growing seedlings. Experienced gardeners recommend sowing seeds not immediately into open ground, but germinating in shallow trays. Reproduction at home will allow the seedlings to grow stronger before planting in open ground.

The generative way of breeding Badan is a lengthy process. The first 1.5-2 years, young plants obtained from seeds develop slowly and require care. Badan seedlings bloom on average for 3-4 years from the moment of sowing.

Seeds are sown in early spring in small containers.

It is not recommended to plant the seeds deeply in the soil, it is enough to mix the seeds with clean coarse sand and evenly distribute over the surface of the moist soil. The sowing is covered with foil and put out on the street under the snow. In the second half of March, sowing containers are brought into a warm room.

The emergence of friendly seedlings begins in 25 days.

Young shoots dive when the first leaf appears. They are planted for growing in open ground in mid-May. However, seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the second year or as soon as the rosette of leaves reaches 10-12 cm. In the table, we will consider several types of purchased soil suitable for sowing Badan seeds:

Soil types Soil grade
Universal nutritious soil for growing seedlings. "Living World"
Peat soil "Garden land" Fart CJSC
Nutrient soil for seedlings "Krepysh" "Fasco"
Nutritious peat soil for seedlings "Permagrobusiness"

The purchased soil contains a balanced composition of macro- and microelements, which is necessary for growing strong seedlings. Such soil, when watering, will prevent the formation of lumps and provide the plant with nutrients.

Purchased soil will allow you to avoid the development of diseases and pests, the appearance of which is not uncommon when using fertilized soil taken from ready-made beds, greenhouses, flower beds.

Read also the article: → "Care and cultivation of Buddley"

Purchased soil provides good oxygen access to the roots of young plants, and also allows you to evenly distribute moisture in the soil. The acidity of the soil is neutral

Planting seedlings of Badan in open ground

Badan seedlings are planted in the spring - in mid-March. This period is most favorable for the rooting of young seedlings. With proper care, the seedlings will get stronger and accumulate all the necessary nutrients for the winter.

Before planting, the seedlings must be acclimated, namely, the seedlings must be taken out to the garden in early March on the warmest and most windless days. After a while, as soon as the matinees and night frosts are over, the seedlings are left overnight in an area under a plastic shelter. Then the shelter is removed and the plant continues to harden for several more days.

Before planting in open ground, seedlings are watered with liquid fertilizer containing nitrogen-phosphorus compounds. Such feeding will speed up the rooting of seedlings in a new place. Before planting seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to prepare the soil.

The soil should be light and loose, such soil warms up well with weak rays of the sun. If the soil is clay, it is necessary to add sand to the sandy soil, add a little clay. The holes in the soil are formed with a depth of no more than 2-2.5 cm. Seedlings are planted in open ground together with an earthen clod.

Seedlings are placed at a distance of 10-12 cm.After planting, the seedlings are moderately watered with water at room temperature.

The planted seedlings must be mulched. Mulch in the early stages of plant development will suppress the growth of weeds, retain the required amount of moisture and heat in the soil. In the table, consider a suitable material for mulching young Badan plants:

Organic mulch Inorganic mulch
pine needles agrofibre
straw expanded clay
mature compost black film

Organic mulches, in addition to retaining heat and moisture in the soil and protecting against weeds, improve the structure of the topsoil. Inorganic mulches shade the soil well and retain moisture, but on persistent hot days can overheat the soil or cause a greenhouse effect.

Cultural varieties of Badan for planting in the garden

In nature, there are about 10 species of Badan, from which the garden forms of the plant were obtained. Garden forms of Badan are hybrids of various origins. In the table, we will consider the varietal characteristics of each of the above varieties of Badan:

Garden varieties Plant height (cm) Features of flowers Leaf features
"Pacific" 45-50 Inflorescences are dense, flowers are reddish-pink Ellipsoidal leaf shape. Green in spring and summer, red and burgundy by autumn
"Thick-leaved" 45-50 Flowers are large up to 2 cm, dark pink The leaves are wide, tough, fleshy. In spring, summer - light green, by autumn - red-brown with shine
"Hearty" 30-35 Inflorescences are pink or bright purple Leaves are heart-shaped, hard, smooth, shiny. In spring, in summer, green, by autumn - red and burgundy
"Schmidt" 35-40 Inflorescences of bright scarlet color Ellipsoidal form of leaves In spring, in summer the leaves are dull, green, by autumn - green with a blue tint.
"Bach" 35-40 Pineal inflorescences, white flowers Ellipsoid, rigid. Dark green in spring and summer, brown by autumn

To grow Badan, it is necessary to prepare such areas on which the plant will grow for 8-10 years. It is important to remember that all garden forms of Badan are difficult to tolerate the transplantation procedure.

All Badan varieties do not like stagnant water in the soil, and also do not tolerate exposure to direct sunlight. Waterlogged soil often leads to rotting of the root system.

Badan is rarely affected by diseases and pests. The development of the disease is observed only with improper care of the plant.

The absence of pests is due to the specific chemical composition of the plant, which repels the vast majority of pests. Experienced gardeners note that Badan is affected by pennitsa slobbering and nematodes. Pennitsa appears if the plant is planted in shady areas with frequent accumulation of water in the soil.

Nematodes develop in the soil when a large amount of organic matter is introduced.

Badan looks spectacular against the background of artificial reservoirs and among stones

As a preventive measure for the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, it is necessary to regularly remove dead aerial plant organs, as well as timely remove fallen leaves and weeds. With a thickened planting, it is recommended to carry out a thinning procedure.

Badan in landscape design

Garden forms of Badan are widely used as an ornamental plant for decorating shady areas in the garden. Such a planting creates the appearance of a natural natural landscape in the form of an edge or a clearing.

The plant looks harmoniously on the rocky areas of the personal plot, as well as as curbs. Due to the ornamental shape of the foliage and the bright color of the inflorescences, Badan is widely used in landscape design. Looks good in combination with narrow-leaved and variegated flower crops.

Read also the article: → "Cultivation of knifophya: reproduction, planting and care of a garden flower"

Badan looks good when planted along garden paths. Thanks to the horizontal root system that develops close to the surface, Badan successfully takes root and grows in areas with an uneven surface.

Badan looks organically in a composition with thuja and green needles

Serious mistakes of gardeners when growing Badan

The main mistakes are:

  1. The seeds are buried deep in the soil.
  2. Seedlings are planted in early spring without hardening.
  3. Rooted seedlings are not mulched.
  4. Produce frequent and abundant watering.
  5. Seedlings are grown in the sunniest areas.

Frequently asked questions from gardeners

Question number 1... What material should not be used to mulch Badan seedlings?

Answer: Such types of organic mulch as sawdust, wood shavings and bark, when rotted, extract nitrogen from the soil, which impairs the development and rooting of young plants. Fallen leaves should be used with extreme caution as mulch. It is not recommended to apply foliage from diseased trees and trees that have been treated with a chemical.

Question number 2. When can an adult Badan plant be transplanted?

Answer: Badan does not tolerate a transplant. Transplanted in the middle of summer or in the first half of autumn.

Question number 3. The optimal age of the Badana plant for dividing the bush?

Answer: Badan is suitable for dividing the rhizome at the age of more than 5 years. Otherwise, the plant will not tolerate division well, which can lead to disease and death of the plant.

Question number 4... At what stage of Badan development can mineral fertilizers be applied?

Answer: They are fed with mineral fertilizers at the flowering stage and at the end.

Question number 5. Is it possible to sow Badan seeds directly into open ground?

Answer: It is not recommended to sow Badan seeds in open ground, the germination of such seeds is low. Sowing seeds in open ground is carried out at the end of March, until the end of April. Seedlings appear in about a month. For the winter, the seedlings are covered with straw. Blooms 3-4 years after planting.

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