How to grow tomato and strawberry seedlings

Trying is not torture

I am a city dweller, and therefore could not imagine that I would enjoy digging in the ground in the garden. But one day last year, listening to the radio "Maria" with the corner of my ear, Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima's "Advice to Gardeners" programs, I suddenly realized what an interesting and exciting occupation it was.

Then, purposefully all winter, I listened to her advice on the radio, read books and magazines, and bought seeds. And as if she had discovered a new world for herself. And at the end of February, when jars of pepper, leek and celery seedlings appeared on my windowsill, I broke my leg. The doctors said that I would not be able to walk without crutches until the fall (and indeed, the cast was removed only at the end of August).

Some friends advised me to give up this venture with seedlings, they say, I still can't take care of it, let alone plant it.

And now the story of how I, together with my children (7 years old; 4 years old, 1.5 years old), nevertheless raised a harvest that was not very large, but pleased us.

We planted different tomatoes - from tiny varieties of Balkonnoe Miracle to tall ones. Most of all I liked the tomato of the firm "Hardwick" of the dessert pink variety. We got 15-17 tomatoes from a bush, weighing 300-350 g each, the largest weighing 620 g. Their taste is incomparable. We cut them into slices and used them for sandwiches instead of sausages. I'll tell you about tomatoes first.

In mid-February, she began to harden the seeds. In a damp cloth, I put them in the refrigerator for two days, then took them out and left them in the room for two days. I alternated this for a couple of weeks, making sure that the seeds did not dry out, but were slightly damp (I put a little bit of snow).

I sowed peat-sand-chalk into the mixture (instead of ash, which we did not have), added powder AVA fertilizer. The seeds were sown already hatched, to a depth of 2 cm. After the appearance of the first loop, I put them on the windowsill, in the evening and in cloudy weather, they illuminated them with an ordinary fluorescent lamp. To increase the illumination, I put a foil-plastic screen (foil on thin foam rubber) from the side of the room, which remained after the repair. This at the same time helped well to protect the plants from the dry, hot air of the battery.

In the afternoon, in sunny weather, she shaded the plants with thin white paper.

I dived the seedlings into plastic cups of 250 g. Once a week, I watered it with Uniflor-Bud solution, and twice sprayed it with Oxyhom to protect it from phytophthora. To reduce growth in the 8-leaf stage, I cut off the top of the plants with four leaves and a long stem and immediately set them up for rooting. She took the water to the thickness of two fingers.

I prepared a nutrient solution (1 teaspoon of honey in a glass of water) and added 1 teaspoon of it to cups with tops. I threw out the lower part. After 2-3 days, they had the rudiments of roots, and I planted them in the same cups. After another week and a half, the root system completely filled the cup. As a result of this procedure, tomatoes have grown about 50 cm shorter and more stocky than unprinted tomatoes (this is especially important for low greenhouses).

We went to the dacha only on June 14, the seedlings were dark green, 40-50 cm high. Since my husband could not help me in the garden, I had to look for technologies that require the least labor costs. I would like to note that we have no electricity at our dacha.

I planted the seedlings in a film greenhouse. At first, I gradually spilled the earth in each hole with five liters of water. Then she poured half a teaspoon of AVA and one dessert spoon of superphosphate at the bottom, mixed them with the ground and planted the seedlings there vertically, slightly deepening.

After the end of planting, she watered the soil and mulched it with peat with ash in a layer of 8 cm. I did not feed anything else, I had to water the tomatoes only once during the period of fruit growth.

During flowering, the children covered the ground under the tomatoes with foil from chips so that there was more sun. Shaped into two stems, pinned, tied up. Experienced neighbors said that I had a decent harvest, despite the harsh summer. But the main thing is that the children and I were able to cope with all the work on our own, without outside help, and this work was our joy.

She sowed leeks of the Iolant variety on seedlings at the end of February, then at the stage of two leaves she sowed them into film "diapers". Every three weeks she unrolled them and added 1 tablespoon of earth. She planted in a bed fertilized with compost obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees, shortening the leaves and roots by 1/3, adding 2 granules of AVA fertilizer during planting. Plants quickly started to grow: both up and in breadth. Several times we spud the leek, a total of 30 cm. In September, we harvested large plants with a bleached stem up to 25 cm, 6-7 cm in diameter. Smaller specimens were left to winter, at the end of October they were covered with peat.

Experiments on strawberries were also involved. She planted her mustache on a bed covered with black spunbond, in cruciform incisions, added 1 teaspoon of AVA fertilizer to each hole. Sprayed with phytosporin for fungal diseases. There was no need to weed or loosen (weeds do not grow, moisture and soil structure are preserved. The berries did not hurt at all.

In August, I cut the spunbond and rooted as many mustaches as necessary, cut off the rest. I poured 1 glass of lime milk under each bush, did not feed anything else (the AVA fertilizer contains enough microelements for three years).

The neighbors gave a lot of very young mustaches of good varietal strawberries, but I no longer had developed beds, and I could not dig sod. I got out of the situation like this: in July I processed the grass around the apple trees with "roundup". At the end of August, the weeds were completely dry, including the roots.

Now the sod could be easily removed without digging like a rug. Jars of water were dug into the ground at the level of the soil. She planted her mustache in curtains around the jars. With a sharp knife, she renewed the mustache slices and lowered them into the water. Shaded with lutrasil. At the end of September, there were already new leaves on all the bushes. In the spring I will plant them on permanent beds on black spunbond, or maybe I will try on roofing material, it is cheaper, and the effect is promised the same.

What a vegetable garden without zucchini. We planted them on a rotting sod heap, covering it with old plastic wrap, just like strawberries. I did not water, did not weed, but there were a lot of zucchini. We still eat zucchini Negritenok.

Taking into account my capabilities, I planted all the vegetables a little, made mixed beds. The most successful was the one on which perennial onions grew in the middle, then two rows of carrots to the edge, and a row of beets along the very edge. Mint, tarragon and parsley were planted at the ends of the bed. The vegetables were not sick, no one chewed them.

After harvesting the vegetables, I sowed all the beds with white mustard. Since my vegetable beds alternate with strawberry beds, in the fall the garden looked unexpectedly beautiful (they say that it is also useful). The strawberry bushes grew and completely covered the beds with foliage. The alternation of dark green strawberry foliage with light mustard greens was amazing, especially against the background of the frozen grass in the rest of the site.

This is how the children and I combined business with pleasure. They defeated my infirmity, got pleasure, an interesting experience and, of course, our own, the most delicious vegetables and berries. Maybe my experience will help those who think that he will not cope with the hard work of a gardener. In fact, it is interesting and exciting, especially if you are not afraid to experiment.

O. Lukoyanova,
novice gardener,
prize-winner of the competition Our competition "Summer season - 2005"

Two weeks before planting the seedlings, start hardening the seedlings. Physalis is planted in the ground after the end of the frost.
Prepare the bed in advance for planting. Although physalis is not damaged by the Colorado potato beetle and is very rarely affected by late blight, the predecessors of physalis should not be crops of the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes), since they have common diseases and pests. Add 40-50 g of nitroammophoska (matchbox) per square meter to the soil. If the soil in your area is acidic, then additionally add 200-300 g of wood ash to the same area. Dig well onto the bayonet of the shovel.

Prepare planting holes. There should be 70 cm between the rows of holes. The distance between the holes in a row is 50 cm for berry (Peruvian) and 60-70 cm for vegetable (Mexican) physalis. Although physalis is not picky about soils, it will respond well to the introduction of a small amount of humus into the hole.

Carefully remove the seedlings from the pot, being careful not to damage the earthen ball.

Place the seedlings in the hole. The depth of the hole should be such that the seedlings fit in it up to the first true leaf.

Fill the hole with soil, compact a little around. Water well and mulch the plantings with peat so that a crust does not form when watering.

When caring for physalis, keep the soil loose and weed-free. When, after planting, physalis grows, it must be tied up, because varieties of Mexican physalis are more than a meter high. After 2 weeks, do the first top dressing and hilling after watering. Feed physalis every two weeks, alternating organic fertilizing (mullein infusion 1: 8) with mineral fertilizers (1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer per bucket of water).
Physalis does not need to be grown-up. Only in the fall, with the onset of cold weather, it is pinched to limit growth and accelerate the ripening of fruits. Physalis continues to bear fruit even when the temperature drops to 0 ° C and can withstand frosts down to -2 ° C in autumn.

Soil preparation for strawberry seedlings

The soil for growing strawberry seedlings must be carefully prepared. The preparation includes spilling it with a manganese solution or using other methods of disinfection from pests and diseases.

To make the soil as light as possible, it should be sieved through a sieve. In such a crushed form, it will easily pass air and water, which is very important for the plant. For seedlings of this berry, there are several options for different potting mixes.

  • Mix No. 1. It consists of ordinary soil from the garden (three parts), humus (three parts) and 0.5 parts of ash.
  • Mix No. 2. It consists of peat and sand (three parts) and vermiculite (four parts).
  • Mix No. 3. It consists of equal parts of humus and coconut fiber.
  • Mix No. 4. It consists of sand and humus (three and five parts, respectively).
  • Mix No. 5. It consists of peat and sand (one part) and sod land (two parts).
  • Mix No. 6. It consists of humus and garden soil (one part each) and sand (three parts).


Posted on October 8, 2016 | Author: Rais

Everyone knows a delicious seasoning for food - pickled squash. Many also like these vegetables stewed, or cut into circles and fried in oil, like zucchini. They are considered a type of zucchini. But, like zucchini, squash simply belong to the same pumpkin family, and their other name is plate pumpkin. This annual, imported from America, is not found in the wild, but has long been successfully cultivated in many countries. Squash tastes more delicate than squash, somewhat similar to artichoke or asparagus. It is a dietary product useful for diseases of the stomach, liver, kidneys, atherosclerosis, and also has a diuretic effect.
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It is worth purchasing seeds only from a reputable manufacturer. And most importantly, you shouldn't save. After all, if you buy cheap seeds, they can be of poor quality, so all work will go unnoticed.

Soil requirements are always high. It is optimal that it be loose, since the roots can feed on water and air. The nutritional level is high. But, here it is important not to overdo it, so that an excess of fertilizer does not lead to anything good. You can make a mixture of black soil, soil and sand, this combination is optimal.

Care of tomato / tomato seedlings before planting in the ground

1. Water the tomato seedlings. If the soil is dry, water it. If flooded, remove excess moisture. In case of strong flooding, the soil can be covered with vermiculite, earth mixed with hydrogel and vermiculite.

To avoid a bay, choose the right pots: pots for seedlings should have holes at the bottom to remove excess moisture. Almost all ready-made seedling containers have them. If you are using your own containers, then make holes in them in advance.

2. Feed tomato seedlings... Purchased soil, even if it has the inscription "fertile", is usually very poor in composition and is not able to feed the voracious tomato seedlings. And therefore, she needs feeding. Any specialized liquid fertilizer for seedlings is suitable for this. If you feel calmer, you can buy special fertilizer for seedlings, but in principle you can buy any.

It is useful to alternate liquid top dressing at the root with spraying on the leaf. Ready-to-use fertilizer for spraying is sold in any gardener's department. Can be used for spraying and ordinary fertilizer in a lower concentration than for irrigation.

3. Love tomato seedlings ))) Everything grows better from love!

How to plant tomato seedlings to reap a rich harvest in 2020

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Experienced gardeners carefully select seeds and soil for planting tomatoes. Of course, you can just buy seedlings, but growing seedlings yourself is much more interesting. Self-cultivation will save money and guarantee quality plants.

Ideas for summer cottages and gardens

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