Vallota - Amaryllidaceae - Cultivation and care of the Vallota plant


HOW TO GROW AND CARE FOR OUR PLANTS

VOTE

The Vallota are bulbous plants of the family of Amaryllidaceae very simple to grow that produce beautiful flowers that are very decorative and persistent.

BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION

Kingdom

:

Plantae

Clado

: Angiosperms

Clado

: Monocotyledons

Order

:

Asparagales

Family

:

Amaryllidaceae

Kind

:

Vallota

Species

: Vallota speciosa

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

Inside the kind Vallota, belonging to the family ofAmayllidaceae, we find only one species (with numerous hybrids and cultivars), native to South Africa la

VALLOTA SPECIOSA (VALLOTA PURPUREA)

There Vallota speciosa it is characterized by ribbon-like, erect leaves of a beautiful intense green color which in some varieties may be tinged with red.

The orange-red flowers are carried at the top of long flower stems. They are quite large, reaching 10 cm in diameter and funnel-shaped. They are plants that can reach 60 cm in height.

Of the different varieties belonging to this species the Vallota speciosa 'Alba' is characterized by white flowers; the variety Vallota speciosa 'Delicate with salmon-pink flowers.

CULTURAL TECHNIQUE

The Vallota sare very simple plants to grow.

In early spring (April - May) the bulbs are planted. They are placed in small jars of about 13-15 cm in diameter just below the ground using a good fertile soil and arranging the soil well around. The pot with the bulb should be placed in a place with temperatures around 18 ° C and also exposed to the sun but in any case in a very bright position. The sun is essential to have a beautiful flowering.

During the winter the optimal temperatures are around 10-13 ° C.

WATERING

From the month of March and until June it is watered so that the soil always remains moist.

From July to September, watering decreases, making sure that the soil has time to dry on the surface between one watering and the next. Being an evergreen plant if you continue to water it, in moderation, so that the compost does not dry out, the leaves will persist all winter.

TYPE OF SOIL - REPOT

They are not particularly demanding plants in terms of soil. A good fertile soil mixed with some coarse sand is fine.

FERTILIZATION

Starting from March and until September, a liquid fertilizer diluted in irrigation water is administered every 2-3 weeks, slightly decreasing the doses compared to what is indicated in the package.

Use a good liquid fertilizer equally balanced in nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) but which also contain microelements, i.e. those compounds that the plant needs in minimal quantities (but still needs them) such as magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), all important for a correct and balanced growth of plant.

FLOWERING

Flowering occurs in summer, in August - September. Be careful to eliminate the flowers that gradually fade, cutting the entire stem when it withers.

PRUNING

There Vallota it cannot be pruned. The parts that dry out are eliminated to prevent them from becoming a vehicle for parasitic diseases.

Always remember to use clean and disinfected tools (possibly with a flame), to avoid infecting the tissues.

MULTIPLICATION

The multiplication takes place through the suckers that are formed at the base of the plant.

MULTIPLICATION FOR POLLONS

In spring, the suckers that form at the base of the plant during the vegetative season are removed, which are nothing more than small lateral bulbs. These are gently picked up and planted in pots no larger than 8 cm in diameter with the same soil used for adult plants and treated as such.

Within 1-3 years they will mature and be able to produce flowers.

PARASITES AND DISEASES

They are not plants that are particularly prone to diseases.

Spots on the underside of the leaves

Lacocciniglia and in particular the mealy cochineal can infect the plant. It is very easy to identify and recognize it: take a magnifying glass and observe it, they are characteristics, you cannot go wrong. Also if you try to remove them with a fingernail, they come off easily.

Remedies: remove them with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol or if the plant is large and potted, you can wash it with water and neutral soap, rubbing very gently with a sponge to remove the parasites, after which the plant should be rinsed very well to remove all soap. For larger plants planted outdoors, you can use specific pesticides available from a good nurseryman.

CURIOSITY'

The genus takes its name from the French physician Pierre Vallot (1591-1671) who described, among others, the gardens of Louis XIII.


  • 1 Etymology
  • 2 Description
    • 2.1 Roots
    • 2.2 Leaves
    • 2.3 Inflorescence
    • 2.4 Flower
    • 2.5 Fruits
  • 3 Playback
  • 4 Distribution and habitat
  • 5 Taxonomy
    • 5.1 Variety
    • 5.2 Hybrids
  • 6 Uses
  • 7 Cultivation
  • 8 Multiplication
  • 9 Adversity
  • 10 Notes
  • 11 Other projects
  • 12 External links

The genus name is a tribute to Lady Charlotte Clive, Duchess of Northumberland. [2]

Slow-growing evergreen plant with large ribbon-shaped leaves arranged in a fan shape, from the center of which the new vegetation and the flower stems bearing numerous bell-shaped orange flowers branch off. It reaches dimensions close to and sometimes greater than half a meter in height. Mature specimens cluster vigorously, emitting numerous suckers at the base of the plant, thus creating dense bushes. They are plants without reserve underground organs. [without source]

Roots Edit

Fleshy, rhizomatous in the shape of ropes. Partially emerging from the substrate

Leaves Edit

Ribbons with obtuse apex, up to 6 cm wide and up to 70 cm long. The leaf blade is leathery and shiny, dark green on the upper side and lighter green on the underside. They generate directly from the roots, thus creating a kind of fan. The emission of new leaves occurs from the center of this structure, developing alternately one on the right and one on the left. In this way, the leaves that are farthest from this center of genesis, and therefore closest to the ground, are the oldest.

Inflorescence Edit

Similar to a terminal umbel carrying 10 to 20 flowers.

Flower Edit

Funnel-shaped, erect, red-orange in color.

Fruits Edit

Fleshy red berries containing two to four spheroidal seeds. Once ripe, these seeds can germinate when they are still inside the fruit.

It is the only species of the genus that has entomogamous pollination. It is carried out in nature by flies, bees and moths of the genus Papilio. [without source]

Shady and humid locations in the east / south east of South Africa. [without source]

Variety Edit

Clivia miniata var. citrine S. Watson [3]

Hybrids Edit

One of its interspecific hybrid called Clivia x cyrtanthiflora cross between C. miniata is C.nobilis, capable of flowering two or three times a year. [without source]

Exclusively ornamental plant. Grown as a houseplant for its gorgeous foliage and profusion of spring / summer flowers. The whole plant is poisonous as it contains Lycorine, a crystalline alkaloid also present in the genus Narcissus. [without source]

Being plants that live in environments where the rains are concentrated in spring and summer, in winter they need little watering, while in summer they require good quantities of water and high relative humidity rates. It is therefore advisable to cultivate the Clivia in pots by placing them outside in summer, in a bright but humid and cool place, away from sunlight, and to water regularly, avoiding stagnations that could cause rot. In winter it can be picked up in the apartment, possibly in a moderately bright area to stimulate the next flowering, but it also tolerates poor lighting conditions excellently, being an undergrowth plant. As far as temperatures are concerned, the vegetative optimum ranges from 15 ° C to 25 ° C. In the winter season, both adult and very young specimens bear temperatures a few degrees above 0 ° C. The important thing is not to expose them to freezing at all.

Partial to full shade exposure [4].

The fastest and most functional way to obtain vigorous and rapid flowering plants is the vegetative one, by dividing the strains originating at the base of the plant. Alternatively, sow the seeds ripened during the winter on the plant in the spring. Once the berries have reached the bright red color and are therefore ripe, open them and then clean the seeds from the pulp. Place one seed per 8 cm diameter pot with good universal soil (or better soil mixed with sand and peat). A good way to ensure germination is to leave the seeds undisturbed on the plant, in their berry until the berry begins to darken and dehydrate, and then fall to the ground. Touching this fruit it will be noticed that there are swellings in it due to the fleshy radicle that each seed has already emitted. Growth from seed is slow, and flowering will not occur until the plant is mature, approximately 7 years after sowing.


Convolvulus cneorum or Silver Bell plant care

The genre Bindweed , of the family Convolvulaceae , is made up of more than 600 species of climbing herbaceous plants (mainly) originating in the Mediterranean basin. Some species I'm : Convolvulus cneorum, Convolvulus tricolor, Convolvulus sepium, Convolvulus sabatius, Convolvulus althaeoides, Convolvulus floridus, Convolvulus mauritanicus.

It is also known by the common names Gloria de la Mañana, Campanilla plata, Convólvulo plata, Correhuela turca or Campanilla and by the scientific name Convolvulus argenteus.

It is an evergreen bush , with a compact and rounded habit, barely half a meter tall. It has beautiful lanceolate leaves of a green-silver color and a silky texture. Its abundant and colorful flowers have white petals with pink streaks and a yellow center. They bloom from late spring to early summer.

It is used in borders and massifs, rocks and to cover sunny slopes and low walls. It combines very well with I'm in is Theucrius . They are ideal for Mediterranean coastal gardens. It is also suitable for growing in pots.

The silver bell will need to be displayed in full sun and protected from the cold, although it can withstand some sporadic low intensity frosts.

They prefer calcareous soils but they thrive in drained, sandy and even arid and poor soils.

Irrigate very moderately throughout the year with an increase in irrigation in the summer, considering that they are very resistant to drought.

No special subscription is required .

They can be slightly prune after flowering to give them a more compact habit.

They are plants resistant to the most common parasites and diseases.

They they propagate from seeds sown in early spring or from cuttings made in summer. It is recommended to renew the specimens every 3 or 4 years.


Vallotta

Vallotta is a genus of plants from the family of Amaryllidaceae, originally from South Africa. Only one species belongs to the genus, and its numerous hybrids, known by the name of Vallota speciosa (syn. Vallota purpurea). There Vallota speciosa it is a perennial bulbous with ribbon-like, erect, deep green leaves, which in some varieties may be tinged with red. The orange-red flowers are carried at the top of long flower stems. Generally these plants do not exceed 50-60 cm in height. Among the numerous varieties on the market, we point out: Vallota speciosa "alba" characterized by white flowers and variety Vallota speciosa "delicate" from salmon-pink flowers. It blooms during the summer months.

Cultivation: the Vallotta speciosa it is an undemanding plant and if regularly fertilized and watered (always in moderation) it can give beautiful blooms. The lack of flowering is due to the weakening of the plant and the lack of fertilization. From spring and throughout the summer, fertilize about every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer to be diluted in irrigation water. Periodically remove the parts that dry out.

Exposure: the ideal exposure of this plant in the apartment is in a bright area, but away from direct sunlight. To avoid drafts and thermal changes. During the spring the plant can be taken outside, in a very bright position.

Planting: the multiplication takes place through the suckers that are formed at the base of the plant.

Irrigation: from spring the water supply must be gradually increased until the foliage vaporizes every 2-3 days in summer.


About 40 species of Cyrtanthus are known. To better define the species, it can be said that the genus Cyrtanthus can be divided into two distinct groups based on the growth cycle: deciduous and evergreen.

Deciduous species can be further divided into winter growing species summer growing species.

Evergreen forms are among the most cultivated of all Cyrtanthus species. They bloom when they feel captive, especially when hybridizing with similar species (such as Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus). These are ideal shapes for containers. There are numerous forms of color and all of them are scented.

Cyrtanthus angustifolius

This species is characterized by leaves, which usually form together with the flower, narrow and up to 45 cm long. The flowers are orange-red and bloom in late summer and early fall, occasionally in the winter after a fire. This species is not suitable for growing in cold regions. It grows on mountain slopes and plains in seasonal streams and swamps.

Cyrtanthus contractus

It is one of the most widespread flowers in South Africa, it was first described in 1898. It grows to a height of 40 cm and generally blooms in spring and early summer. Its flowers are pink and sometimes reddish.

Cyrtanthus falcatus

It blooms in early spring, producing red-pink flowers with a trace of yellow on the outside of the corolla. This is a hardy species.

Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus

This small semi-evergreen species produces orange-red flowers, one of the easiest to grow. The flowering period is spring.

Cyrtanthus breviflorus

It blooms mainly in spring and summer, but sporadic blooms may appear throughout the season. It produces beautiful bright yellow flowers.

Cyrtanthus clavatus

It is an Eastern Cape species that produces a white, cream or pale pink flower with red-brown or green median stripes.

It is dormant in winter and blooms in summer, and the bulbs should be planted with the necks just above the ground level.

Cyrtanthus elatus

Note how Vallota speciosa, George Lily or Scarborough Lily is one of the most striking members of the genus and is grown around the world for its cut flowers. The most popular color is scarlet red, but pinks and white forms are now also available.

It is often said that this species blooms very irregularly, but some forms are naturally more floriferous than others.

Cyrtanthus eucallus

This orange-flowering species has numerous hybrids that deserve extensive horticultural attention. It is evergreen, multiplies quickly, and requires a shady location. It is an easy species and is an ideal plant for pots.

Cyrtanthus fergusoniae

It is a deciduous or evergreen species with bright red flowers.

Cyrtanthus galpinii

It is a dwarf species, which produces pink or orange flowers.

Dormant in winter, it blooms in August-September in its natural habitat.

Cyrtanthus guthrieae

Few adjectives adequately describe the beauty of this extremely rare species with its bright red flowers that reflect the luster in the sun. It blooms faithfully every March-April in the southern hemisphere.

Cyrtanthus spiralis

It is a very rare species in nature and is among the most difficult to cultivate

It is usually evergreen in cultivation, but should be kept nearly dry in the summer, and rarely watered in the winter.

Cyrtanthus staadensis

It is a rare and floriferous species that produces bright orange-red flowers


Begonias, multiplication by cuttings

The begonias they are plants rather easy to multiply as they are characterized by a strong ability to produce new specimens starting from portions of a mother plant. There multiplication of begonia it can happen for apical cutting, for leaf cutting (or from portions of leaf) and for division from tuber or rhizome.

Whatever the multiplication technique choice, take care to take the cuttings exclusively from healthy mother plants in order not to transmit any diseases to the new plants. For the same reason, always use well-cleaned and disinfected garden tools. Let's see now how begonias multiply by cuttings, while we will deal with the later multiplication of begonias by division of tuber or rhizome.

Begonia, multiplication by apical cutting

There apical cutting it is a multiplication technique particularly suitable for shrub species. It is practiced in spring or early summer by taking 6-8 cm long cuttings from the youngest stems with at least two nodes (the intersection points of the leaves on the branch). The cut must be made right under the node and the leaves at the level of this must be eliminated, as well as any flowers or buds.

The cuttings they should therefore be placed in small jars filled with a mixture of sand and peat. For promote rooting it is advisable to create a warm humid environment around the plants by nebulizing them and covering them with a transparent plastic sheet suspended above them. The cloth, however, must be lifted every day for a few minutes in order to avoid rot and mold.

When, after about three weeks, the roots have formed, the cloth will be removed and the waterings spaced. As soon as the plants appear vigorous enough it will be possible to transfer them to a larger pot and start fertilizing.

Begonia, multiplication by leaf cuttings

For the multiplication of begonia both whole leaves and portions of leaves can be used in the first case it will be enough to detach the whole leaf from the branch taking care to take the petiole which must be placed in a mixture of sand and peat. Alternatively, it is possible to make incisions on the leaves at the ribs and arrange them on the soil making sure that they adhere to it with the entire surface. The new specimens will be born in correspondence with the cuts.

If you want to try the multiplication by cuttings from leaf pieces, proceed as follows: remove the edges of the leaf and cut it into 6-8 pieces that you will arrange vertically on the soil with the thinnest part facing upwards.


Tropical Plants to Turn Your Garden or Terrace into a Jungle

Balconies, patios or gardens can be made if not completely "tarzaneschi", at least more exotic.
The choice of furnishings, structures, materials and colors is very important. For example, if you use cottage-style materials, such as red bricks, you can say goodbye to any tropical effect. Instead, choose metal and modern materials, or focus on that slightly "pirate" air that raw wood, ropes and rigging are able to give. Imagine being in the middle of the Pacific crossing aboard theEndeavor, it won't be that difficult!

Pay attention to the surrounding landscape, create games and small streams of water. Among the colors, choose the brightest ones: warm orange tones, golden yellow, terracotta, to suggest high temperatures. Among the greens, avoid the light and bluish ones, some whitish greens and prefer variegations and marbled leaves.

Tree ferns
Nothing like tree ferns can give a garden the "Jurassic World" look. The most common species, Cyathea is Dicksonia, are botanical relics of very ancient times. Their large fronds suggest a Cretaceous undergrowth and are able, by themselves, to create a real “jungle effect”.

There Cyathea it is faster in growth, but also more delicate. It has foliage that many gardeners prefer as it is more "primitive" (although in reality the Dicksonia is older). The latter is slightly more rustic, but certainly not so much as to tolerate intense and prolonged cold. Both grow on substrates rich in leaf flakes, with modest nutrients, loose soil, and a large amount of moisture in the air and soil.
Therefore, these are not plants that are impossible to cultivate, but they require a certain continuity of care, irrigation and nebulization.

Bamboo
Always linked to oriental countries, such as China, Malaysia or Japan, bamboo is a plant that gives an exotic look to any garden, even the most metropolitan. In addition, many bamboos have tiny leaves that sway in the wind and emit a pleasant rustle reminiscent of rain.

There are hundreds of species, genera and varieties of bamboo. Some are grown only for reeds, such as Phyllostachys aurea 'Koi' or the P. bambusoides 'Castilloni', with a variegated yellow trunk. The famous and always popular Phyllostachys nigra it has a thin and almost purplish purple stem. Not all species are rustic, that is, tolerant of cold. Considering those that can be grown in Italy, among the most beautiful bamboos we find the Pleiobastus viridistriatus (Arundinaria auricoma) which has thin stems, beautiful foliage, and is suitable for growing in pots due to its not excessive height. For the vase also the Sasa veitchii (Arundinaria veitchii), is low, with a ground cover, fast in growth, with wide foliage and edged in white. The leaf of Indocalamus tessellatus, completely green. For a "curtain effect" choose Robust Fargesia is F. utilis.

These bamboos can be used for effective optical and acoustic insulation. Remember the importance of lighting that multiplies the graphic effect of the bamboo leaves.

Remember: the culm is the hollow stem of bamboo canes.

An isolated patio
Bamboo is particularly suitable for optical and acoustic insulation. Growing it in pots will not have the problem of invasiveness, and keeping it under control will not be challenging.

The "curtain effect" is essential if you want to isolate the garden, balcony or veranda from the rest of the landscape, either for privacy reasons, or for aesthetic reasons. In this case, a tropical garden would clash in a normal urban or countryside context, however Mediterranean it may be. Better to create a world apart, in which to insert the elements that interest us. The accessories are very important, such as small statues, outdoor showers, windsurfing boards.
For a tropical effect, there is nothing better than a parquet, preferably in medium tones, not too light, which refers to the colonial style. Obviously, the furniture must also be in tone.
Pay attention to the surrounding trees: if they are needle-like and "Nordic" it will be better to focus on another type of project.

Canna indicates
Many tropical lovers use the Canna indicates like a banana tree, due to the width of the leaves, the height of the plant and the great availability of colors of flowers and foliage.
A dense clump of Canna indicates it will give a very pronounced exotic touch, especially if you choose varieties with dark foliage, such as 'Tropicana' (in the photo. Synonym 'Phasion'), with variegated foliage and deep orange flowers.
Also good cultivar such as Tropicanna® Black, tall with red flowers and very dark foliage, or 'Pretoria', with particularly large leaves, streaked with yellow.

There Canna indicates it does not have a great range of flower colors, until recently red and yellow dominated. Look for unusual, apricot-flowered, or peach-pink, marbled yellow, orchid-like varieties such as 'Yellow King Humbert', 'Pink Sunburst', 'Striped Beauty', 'Striata', 'Red Stripe', 'Princess Di', or the extraordinary 'M. Holtz ', with golden yellow flowers flecked with an intense orange.

Tropical… Mediterranean
It would seem a real oxymoron, but the Mediterranean garden has for centuries welcomed plants from hot countries for acclimation. The first arrival stations for the plants considered delicate were in Spain and Naples, then they passed through central Europe. This is how many exotic plants have conquered their slice of the Mediterranean garden today of yesteryear, even becoming a familiar and domestic presence.

In such a context, next to a fountain or a body of water, a palm tree or a banana tree would not be out of place. If you have the opportunity, plant exotic fruit trees, such as avocado or mango, or flowers such as Passiflora (look for the variety edulis, sweeter).
In areas with mild winters you can dare with plants that would otherwise die outside: Zamioculcas, Calathea, Ficus lyrata, Hoya, Monstera deliciosa, Caladium, Gloriosa, Tacca, turmeric and orchids. However, not all of them survive winter unscathed, albeit in zone 10b.

A real private retreat
A little Zen, a little colonial, a little tropical-style, this modern patio overlooking a small garden. Designed for relaxation in the shade of mobile curtains and plants with large leaves and an exotic look.

It starts with a parquet in medium tones and a furniture that favors wood and light fabrics with a certain grain. The plants are chosen among the least delicate: theAlocasia macrorrhiza it is in fact moderately rustic in Italy. The patio offers protection during the winter months and the folding screen creates a filtered shade that is also welcome for plants. Such a refined ensemble plays on the tones of the wood and the green shades of the plants, so be discreet with the flowers, use only light flowers, possibly of unusual shapes and not in mass.

Cycas and bulbous plants
Few plants like the Cycas revoluta give an exotic look to the garden. Unfortunately used in a bad way as status-symbol, due to its price and slow growth, it has ended up marking the entrances of hotels, doctors' surgeries, chic shops.
Without being too influenced by the aesthetic wear associated with a plant, the Cycas it has a decisive foliage, with a clear and clear profile, which goes well with looser and softer foliage, especially if with a pulvinate habit.
Once grown, these will remain low, but there will be a few years when they will be more or less the same height, creating a "mixed bed" effect.

Ribbon-like leaf bulbs, such as Ismene, Hymenocallis, Nerine, Agapanthus, Clivia, Crinum, lilies of all kinds, Cyrtanthus (Vallota), Hemerocallis, Hippeastrum, Amaryllis, Iris, Crocosmia, Neomarica, Dietes, etc. they are very valuable aids in composing a jungle effect due to the large flowers, sometimes isolated, with unusual and very showy shapes.

Are you looking for more tropical style inspirations? See all the photos
Furnish in Jungalow style

Do you need help? On Houzz you can find the right professional for you for the parquet or furniture of your patio or garden.


Vallota - Amaryllidaceae - Cultivation and care of the Vallota plant

Kind Graptopetalum
Family Crassulaceae
Habitat Mexico and Arizona
Cultivation Graptopetalums usually tolerate temperatures above 5/8 ° C, with the exception of one variety, G. paraguayense, which resists down to -5 ° C and is therefore also grown outdoors in northern Italy. Watering must be suspended completely in winter.
Curiosity The plants of the genus Graptopetalum in English are also called “Leatherpetal”, ie leather petals: in fact they have flowers with particularly thick and robust petals, even if small and grouped in inflorescences.

The Graptopetalum: salient features

The plants of the genus graptopetalum they are crassulaceae native to Central America, characterized by thick, fleshy and watery rosettes of leaves.

The stems are also quite thick and succulent, but the most noticeable part of the plant is definitely the washers. The leaves can take on more or less dark colors ranging in shades of green or silver-gray, they are quite wide and end with a tip.

The flowers they are usually white, with small reddish spots, composed of five petals joined only at the base in some species they are instead of a bright pink color (g. bellum). They grow on a stem that starts from the center of the rosette of leaves, usually in small umbels that can hold 3, 4 or more flowers. Aesthetically they resemble the Echeveria but are distinguished by their smaller size (depending on the species they can grow from 5 to 40 cm maximum) and by the conformation of the flower.

Varieties and Types

There are about 19 species of Graptopetalum, even if those widespread in Italy are few. The most common in Italy is certainly G. paraguayense, which easily resists even low temperatures and is distinguished by the light silver color of the leaves.

The main or most common species on the market are listed below we remind you that you can find several in our online shop, in the section dedicated to Graptopetalum.

Graptopetalum amethystinum
G. bartramii
G. bellum
G. filiferum
G. fruticosum
G. glassii
G. large
G. macdougallii
G. marginatum
G. mendozae
G. western
G. pachyphyllum
G. paraguayense
G. pentandrum
G. pusillum
G. rusbyi
G. saxifragoides
G. superbum

Growing tips

The pretty rosettes of Graptopetalum are easy to grow even in our climates: in general, they have a good tolerance to cold and are also well suited in Northern Italy, especially the aforementioned G. paraguayense.

Here are our growing tips.

  • The display must be very bright. Many varieties ask for full sun, while some are at risk of unsightly sunburn (eg G. bellum) and for them a greater shelter from direct sunlight is preferable.
  • The minimum temperature that Graptopetalum can withstand it generally varies around 5/8 ° C G. paraguayense is an exception, which resists down to -5 ° C if left in totally dry soil.
  • As for all succulents, watering must be completely suspended in the winter season. In spring and summer, however, it is good water abundantly to support the growth of the plant, with the only care to check that the soil has completely dried up between one watering and the next.
  • The soil must be light and well draining, but on average richer in nutrients than other succulents: si consiglia di mischiare un terreno standard per cactacee con della torba.
  • Concimare durante il periodo vegetativo una volta ogni 15-20 gg utilizzando un concime specifico per succulente.
  • La pianta ha una crescita piuttosto rapida e per questo potrebbe avere bisogno di rinvasi frequenti. Considerate che si estende più in larghezza che non in altezza, perciò avrà bisogno di vasi ampi e poco profondi.

Le Graptopetalum si riproducono facilmente per divisione dei cespi (le rosette di foglie) o per talee. Fra le possibili talee, quelle di stelo attecchiscono più difficilmente mentre le talee di foglia sono generalmente facili da portare a termine. L’operazione di divisione dei cespi o di interramento della talea vanno fatte preferibilmente in primavera.


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