Cilantro, or its second name, coriander, is a spicy annual plant that is successfully used in cooking as a seasoning for fish, meat, salads, etc. Due to the high content of vitamin C and minerals, this spice is also used in folk medicine, as an excellent diuretic and antiseptic. The dry seeds of this herb are usually called coriander, and its greens, whether fresh or dried, are called cilantro.
In the dachas and gardens of residents of central Russia, most often you can find the following varieties of coriander planted in the ground:
Dry seeds of this herbaceous plant are called coriander.
There are other varieties as well. They differ from each other in the duration of ripening, the time of stemming, as well as in the taste and content of nutrients. Sowing and caring for them will be the same.
They all grow well on light, pre-fertilized soils, and can also be planted in sand. They do not require the creation of certain conditions for them.
Despite the fact that cilantro is considered an exotic plant in our latitudes, it grows well not only in the country, but also on the balcony and even on the window. This makes it possible for those who do not have a personal plot to enjoy its fresh greenery all year round. But it is best, of course, to sow this spicy herb in the open field, which must be properly prepared before that.
Light soils with a low alkaline environment are excellent for planting coriander seeds:
A bed for growing coriander is prepared in the fall
It will be great if, before planting this spice, other garden herbs, for example, basil, grew on this place. The soil will need to be dug up and well fertilized, using sand, humus and fresh wood ash for this purpose. As for the optimal place for growing coriander, then hills or plains in the sun or in partial shade are well suited for this. Sowing this plant in a low-lying area increases the risk of it getting wet before it ripens.
A bed for growing coriander is prepared in the fall, clearing the soil from the past harvest and additionally fertilizing the soil with potassium salt. This will be her preliminary departure. And you need to plant this garden grass in early spring, when the soil is well moistened with melting snow and the first spring rains. Before planting, the land must be loosened again, fed with organic fertilizers and, if necessary, thoroughly watered.
Before sending them for sowing, it is recommended to soak the seeds in aloe juice for their better germination. Cilantro should be sown in rows, placing them at a distance of 15 cm from each other, as shown in the photo. It is necessary to deepen coriander seeds into the ground by about 2 cm with a distance of 10 cm, consumption per 1 sq. m will be about 3 grams. A detailed sowing video can be found on the Internet.
Video review of seeds
An excellent option would be to plant the beds with this spicy grass in turn. First, plant one, after two weeks - a second, after another 2 weeks - a third. This will allow you to harvest cilantro several times during one summer season and have its fresh greens on the table all the time.
Cilantro, like leafy and petioled celery and other garden greens, needs regular, but not difficult, care. Several videos on the Internet are dedicated to this. Namely:
Watering is especially important in a dry summer - due to a lack of moisture, the plant may not form a rosette, having started up arrows. For an early harvest, coriander can be planted in a greenhouse, greenhouse, or just under a film.
Freshly sprouted coriander seeds should be looked after more carefully than mature plants. They appear above the soil surface usually 2 to 3 weeks after they have been sown. During this period, it is important to promptly remove weeds that can destroy their fragile stems. And after they grow about 5 cm, they can be additionally fed using nitrogen fertilizer. But before that, it is advisable to thin out the garden by removing weak shoots. By the way, they can already be used for food.
Care for freshly sprouted coriander seeds should be more careful
When young cilantro is fed, mulch can be scattered over the bed with it, this will prevent the growth of weeds and retain moisture in the ground. This is the whole care, for learning the intricacies of which you can watch the video.
If this spicy herb is grown for greens, then its flowering should be prevented by timely tearing off the buds that have tied. If the plant is grown under coriander seeds, then, on the contrary, early flowering will only benefit.
Cilantro is considered a long daylight garden herb. As it decreases, its intensive growth will slow down. Therefore, those who plan to grow this spice for herbs are advised to plant it as late as possible.
In late July, August and early September, flower stalks are practically not tied on it, and the greenery, on the contrary, grows very violently. June is great for harvesting seeds. Accordingly, a garden bed should be planted under the coriander in early spring. Taking care of it will be a little more difficult, but the result is worth it.
Video on how to sow before winter
As mentioned above, having planted this spice on your personal plot, you can count on both harvesting greens and harvesting seeds. Both are used in cooking as a fragrant seasoning. With proper and timely planting of this garden herb, greens from the garden can be harvested several times in one season, similar to how dill for sale is grown. To do this, you need to cut off its green part when its growth stops, but peduncles are not tied yet. This usually happens when the length of the stems reaches 20 cm. Then the cut crop should be washed, sorted, dried and disassembled into bunches.
And to collect the seeds, you should first wait until they, as shown in the photo, take a brown hue, and then cut the stems at the root, tie them into bunches and hang them on the oilcloth spread under them. As a result, the seeds crumble and all that remains is to collect them in a dry jar, where they will be stored. They do not need additional care.
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Planting this crop with seeds in open ground is done if the main task is to keep vegetables fresh for autumn and early winter. Since zucchini are thermophilic plants, you should not rush to planting, otherwise there is a possibility that the plants will be sick for a long time, grow slowly, and bear fruit poorly.
As for the timing of planting, the main factor is the warming up of the earth from +15 degrees and above, with the obligatory absence of night frosts. In each region, the weather conditions are different, but in central Russia, which includes the Moscow region, you can start planting zucchini from the beginning of May until the first ten days of June. Zucchini is a rather demanding culture not only for heat, but also for soil fertility, its composition. Therefore, the preparation of the bed must be done in advance. For each square meter of peat soil, a couple of kilograms of humus and compost should be added, sandy - peat and wood waste, loamy - humus and sand. It is important, after adding these components, to dig up the soil and let it settle for at least a week, only after that the seeds should be planted. It is necessary to make beds in sunny places.
It is not necessary to soak the seeds in special solutions before planting, the seedlings will not be long in coming without additional stimulation. When planting seeds immediately in a permanent place, it is important to maintain the distance between the seeds, the optimal one is one meter. It is desirable that there be no more than one plant per square meter. Such a sowing frequency will allow air to circulate better between the seedlings, which will avoid fungal diseases, and weeding and watering will be more comfortable.
Since beans have increased requirements for heat, their growth during freezing is unacceptable. They are capable of destroying bean plants. Young bean sprouts are so tender that they can suffer even from northerly winds.
Sowing of crops is carried out after May 15, when the threat of frost will disappear and the spring winds will not be so cold.
With short-term drops in temperature to minus 3 degrees, bean sprouts are likely to survive, but suffer greatly. In the future, plants can get sick and lag behind in development. Stronger frosts will destroy the bean shoots, therefore, if there is a threat of frost, the ridges are covered with a film.
Sowing saxifrage in open ground or seedlings can be in spring or autumn. When buying seeds in a store, you should focus on recommendations for a specific species and variety.
In open ground, saxifrage with seeds can be planted in late autumn. This option is attractive because the material will undergo natural stratification. As a result, seedlings will appear together in spring, and the likelihood of flowering in the first year will increase.
If you first grow seedlings, then sowing is best done in early February. Move the plants to open ground until July. In this case, until the fall, they will have time to gain strength in order to successfully winter.
Celery can be grown by sowing in boxes with further picking or sowing in individual containers / peat tablets with further plucking out excess shoots.
Juice or milk bags can be great containers for growing seedlings.
Pour snow on the surface of the soil and crush it
Cover the crops with foil and place in a warm place.
Soak peat tablets in warm water
Place celery seeds in a soaked tablet using tweezers or a toothpick
Celery shoots in individual cassettes are rearranged to a lighted place
After planting, I always cover the celery seeds with transparent cling film and keep them under phytolamps until shoots appear. The temperature of the house is from 25 to 27 0 C. Even dry seeds germinate on the 7th day, and after a couple of days the cotyledons appear. I keep them under the film for another week, and then I open the film and further grow the seedlings as usual.
It is important not only to imagine when and in what month to plant strawberries in spring in open ground - before that, you need to grow normal seedlings, healthy and strong, which can quickly adapt to new conditions.
To combat existing pests, fungicides and special agents such as Fitoverm, Aktara and Aktellik are relevant. But problems can be avoided simply by observing all the necessary requirements for growing a crop.
The planted plants need to be kept moist, especially at first. When the seedlings take root and get stronger, watering can be reduced, but the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Mulch will help keep the soil moist. In addition, the mulched area does not need to be loosened, and the weeding is of a purely symbolic nature - to remove individual grass blades that have come out.
In the first year until autumn, it is undesirable to cut off the asparagus shoots so as not to interfere with the full development of the bush. The first small quantities of edible shoots will appear next spring, and in the third year you can harvest.
If the asparagus shoots are not cut off in the year of planting, then by the next summer they will be beautiful adult bushes.
If, when planting asparagus, the bed was well fertilized, then feeding is not needed in the first year. Young plants begin to feed from the second year. In early spring, dry nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium mixtures are scattered between the plants in a dry form and the soil is well loosened. Then, until mid-summer, once every two weeks, they are fed with green fertilizer or mullein infusion. At the end of summer, fertilize with autumn mineral fertilizer, which can be applied dry or prepared in an aqueous solution according to the instructions.
To protect the asparagus from freezing, the garden must be properly prepared for winter. In the fall, all the stems of the plant are cut shortly and this must be done before frost. Then the plants are spud - the more severe the winter, the higher the hill should be. Sprinkle the comb on top with peat or compost.
I planted my first asparagus 20 years ago. Then we did not have the Internet and I, as a novice gardener, did not know anything about this plant. I saw the seeds of something new on sale and bought it. There is a minimum of information on the bag - I only found out that edible sprouts will appear in the second third year. I sowed the seeds immediately on the garden bed, without any special tricks - one row, and that's it. For a long time, no shoots appeared, and I managed to safely forget that I had such seeds. Towards the middle of summer, I saw a row of slender trees of a delicate green color and began to think that it might be - I had never seen asparagus shoots before. I remembered when the bushes grew, at the same time it became clear with what greenery grandmothers make out simple bouquets from their gladioli. By autumn, the bushes had grown and were already about a meter in height, 5-6 shoots each. In the fall I cut off all the greens and in the winter my asparagus left without any hilling and warming. No frost had any effect on my plants, and in the spring we plucked the first sprouts.The first time I tried this plant from my own garden, before that I did not even know the taste. Nice, tender greens - we did not cook any dishes, we just ate fresh, slightly sweet sprouts that looked like green peas. Since then, asparagus has not been translated in our garden and this is the very first plant that we collect in spring.
Growing asparagus does not require special knowledge, and does not cause difficulties even for beginners. The only problem is waiting for the harvest. It's more common for us to plant seeds in the spring and get our vegetables in the summer. Asparagus needs to be grown for three years, but it does not need to be planted annually. With minimal maintenance, the plant will delight the eye and enrich the owner's menu for many years. This is the advantage of a long-term culture.