Grape seedlings grown in the Leningrad region




Novolisinsky plant nursery

- one of the oldest in the region - we have been working since 1991.
- Total area of ​​land - 6 hectares
- In 2007, the nursery was awarded the title of "The Best Farm of the Leningrad Region"
- All the planting material of fruit and berry crops offered in the nursery was grown by us in the Leningrad region

Grape collection

We are proud of about 100 varieties of grapes suitable for cultivation in the North-West region.
This spring we have 77 varieties on sale, of which 18 varieties are for open ground.

In addition to grapes, the nursery offers:
- Large selection of fruit and berry crops
- More than 40 types of ornamental shrubs
- Large selection of perennial flowers
- Seedlings of vegetable crops
- Seedlings of annual flowers
- More than 40 items of coniferous seedlings

Seedlings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs, seedlings of annual and perennial flowers and vegetable crops


Perennials

Perennial flower crops are most often offered by sellers in the spring. The desire to purchase a new variety is great, and colorful packaging appears already in February. But it is still very early, and we do not understand what to do with them, how to save them until they are planted in the garden in April-May.

MODERN VARIETIES OF HYBRID Iris amaze the imagination with the shape and color of the flowers (white, pink, crimson, blue, blue). Old varieties are often found on garden plots, many of them are considered almost weedy, they are often planted from the site on the side of garden roads, even thrown out, they often take root, grow and bloom beautifully in wastelands.

Modern varieties, in contrast to the "unkillable" old ones, are often capricious, which undoubtedly pays off for their beauty.

In the spring, dealerships of the coveted rhizome with one "shovel" of leaves appear on sale (this is how the fan of iris leaves is called). Carefully inspect the cut: there should be no rot, sores and damage. Remember that it is better to dry this plant (even if the leaves are almost dry, they will tolerate it more easily) than to keep it very moist. It rots easily when wet.

Damaged rhizomes of iris can be cured, rotten parts can be cut with a sharp knife to healthy tissue, and the cut can be powdered with crushed charcoal or treated with ordinary brilliant green, applying it to the cut with a cotton swab. Store the rhizomes in a cool, dry place, rarely dampening slightly to avoid drying out.

Daylilies and hosts have a well-developed root system, often with only one bud. Such delenki are most often found in bags with ventilation holes. Choose healthy specimens with a well-formed kidney. They should be planted in peat pots and placed in a cold room or cellar, periodically slightly moistening. And in the garden, they can be planted in a permanent place along with the pot.

Hosta... Please carefully read the description of the variety before purchasing. Pay attention to the size of the bush: hosts are very different in size of leaves - there are giants with a bush up to a meter in size, and there are babies whose bush is no more than 20 cm. Consider this when planting in a permanent place.

Day-lily... This plant, on the contrary, grows well in the sun - it practically does not bloom in deep shade and grows poorly. The varietal variety of this perennial captivates with its many colors, long flowering and unpretentiousness.

ON A NOTE

I want to draw your attention to the lilac. There is an opinion that it is easy to propagate it - just dig up the growth and plant it.

But disappointment comes when the planted shoots bloom: instead of the desired variety, the most common lilac blooms. The point is this: varieties are often propagated by grafting, grafting varietals on wild shoots - which blooms with you if you separate the shoots from it. Varietal lilacs have a weak root system, so it is advisable to propagate them by grafting, like apple trees, pears, plums.

Reference by topic: Choosing quality seedlings - types of rootstock, planting and care


Everything for a rich harvest!

Reasons to work with us

  • Large assortment of landing materials
  • We sell seedlings, bulbs, seeds wholesale and retail
  • We have our own nursery and are producers of planting material
  • We cooperate with Russian and European nurseries
  • The varieties are collected taking into account the climate of St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region
  • We pack high-quality vegetable seeds, flower bulbs, tree seedlings for transportation
  • We deliver to other regions of Russia
  • We consult and tell you in detail about planting seeds and seedlings, as well as caring for them
  • Individual approach to each client and flexible system of discounts
More information about planting material by phone: +7 (812) 783-50-66.

© 2006-2018 Retail sale of seeds "OGOROD.ORG"

Russia, St. Petersburg, st. Kronstadtskaya, 11,
tel.office: +7 (812) 783-50-66 tel.retail: +7 (911) 911-45-07 OPT: +7 (911) 913-15-05


Features of planting and growing

Breeders have bred a variety of blackberry varieties, the proper care of which directly depends on the volume of the crop. Therefore, thornless blackberry care, cultivation, reproduction and pruning, is required, while some varieties have their own specifics.

Important! The sweetness of the blackberry is directly related to the illumination of the area. The more sun hits the plant, the sweeter the fruit will taste. Therefore, breeders recommend choosing places under the site where direct sunlight is unhindered.

Important! Blackberry cultivation depends on the correct planting season. In the Moscow region and the Leningrad region, in the southern regions and the middle lane, planting is carried out in the fall, a month before the first frost. In the Urals and Siberia, we plant plants in the spring at temperatures no higher than 15 degrees. Seedlings that tolerate frost well can be planted in the fall, with low frost resistance - they need to be planted only in spring.

The soil for planting is prepared in the fall: it is dug up, deepening at the same time at least 25 cm. In this case, the plant is planted in the spring. Preferred soil rich in humus. You can fertilize the soil yourself, sprinkling it abundantly with ash or dry lime before digging.

For seedlings to take root well, it is worth giving preference to annuals with several stems, about 5-10 mm thick, and a developed root system, at least 10 cm long. Before planting a cutting, experienced gardeners recommend slightly shortening the roots, as well as removing damaged and "dead »Parts.

It is necessary to plant seedlings in a hole with a diameter and depth of at least 0.5 meters and a distance of about a meter from each other.
whether the climbing bramble is planted, the care for it, in order to be correct, will require at least 4-5 meters. The soil is pre-fertilized. For this, superphosphate is mixed in an amount of 100 grams. and 35 gr. potassium. As a fertilizer, you can use humus from poultry droppings. It is placed on the bottom of the pit, sprinkled with earth by 10-15 cm (in this case, the depth of the mind increases by 25-30 cm so that there is no direct contact of humus with the roots of the plant). On average, one seedling is about a bucket of humus. You can mix the earth with ash, it will take about 80-100 gr.

Planting the seedling is done in such a way that the root collar deepens by no more than 1-1.5 cm. Then the seedling is abundantly watered with 4-5 liters of water, having previously made a hole. Experienced gardeners recommend after cutting off the shoots so that no more than 6-8 cm remains above the ground.

It is worth considering that a properly planted plant will bear fruit for at least 10-15 years.


A few words about varieties

Most of the early and many of the mid-early and even mid-range varieties thrive in unheated greenhouses. The only variety that did not ripen in my greenhouse is a hybrid obtained from Yu.M. Chuguev ('Thor Heyerdahl' x 'Aelita') with a poetic name 217-40-3-1. Moreover, in the third year of cultivation in the greenhouse, part of the berries in the bunch were very tasty and dark-colored already at the beginning of September, and the other part in the same bunch remained sour and green even in mid-October.

But even the very early and very early varieties in the open field behave differently. 'Russian corinka', for example, which always ripened at the end of August, and which I still considered one of the most reliable varieties, in 2012 in mid-September had not yet collected sugar and its berries began to rot. Variety 'Zilga' (later ripening) was perhaps slightly sour than usual and ripened three weeks later than in previous years.


Variety 'Sharov's Riddle'

Variety 'The Riddle of Sharov' in the eight years that I have been growing it, I have never failed. This is really an absolutely trouble-free cultivar. In 2011, from a three-year-old specimen, I harvested 8 kilograms of grapes in mid-September (usually I ripened it in the last days of August). In addition, the berries of the 'Riddle' can hang on the vine until frost, while becoming more and more delicious. True, and birds are not indifferent to them.

But at the superearly F -14-75 in 2012, neither the berries nor the vine ripened. 'Nina's Muscat' - the berries did not get sugar, although those who tried it for the first time immediately wanted this particular variety. The vine is 40% ripe. Overwintered in a pit in the open field, and then grown on the street potted (more precisely - "bucket") specimen of the variety 'Pearl Pink' ripened in early September, had a great taste and by the end of the season - well ripened (60 percent) vine.

Not so long ago I purchased several cultivars Amur grapes, but because of their comparative youth I do not undertake to judge them yet. The first tiny bunches 'Taiga' ripened in mid-September, simultaneously with 'Sharov's Riddle'. 'Kishmish Potapenko', which according to the description is a rather late variety, was quite edible in early October, and its clusters turned out to be of impressive size (for the first fruiting, in any case).


Grape 'Early Russian', August 2012

'New Russian' in the greenhouse gave the first decent bunch of excellent taste, but in the open field it has not yet borne fruit. It seems like him, like 'To Russian Early', you need a large supply of perennial wood in order to prove itself in all its glory.


How to plant apple trees in autumn

The correct planting of an apple tree in autumn is a guarantee not only of the future harvest, but also of the health of the tree. Experienced gardeners know that diseases and pests will haunt weakened plants. Strong, strong trees are affected much less often.

Seat selection

You need to plant an apple tree in an open, sunny place. Better, choose a site with a gentle slope or with a slight slope (no more than 15⁰). There should be no trees nearby that shade the apple tree or inhibit its growth, for example, walnut.

When choosing a landing site, the depth of groundwater is of great importance. The higher the apple tree, the further into the ground its roots go:

Wetlands are not a suitable place for culture. Before planting a tree, you need to reclaim the site or fill in a high bed.

Where fruit crops used to grow, they should not be placed again. As a last resort, the planting hole needs to be made more than recommended and the soil in it must be completely replaced.

How to prepare a pit for planting an apple tree in the fall

First of all, you need to determine the distance at which you need to plant apple trees from each other and other crops. The starting point is the estimated height of an adult tree:

  • dwarfs - 2.5 m
  • medium-sized - 3-3.5 m
  • high - 4 m.

To properly plant an apple tree seedling in the fall, the pit must be prepared in the spring. In fact, gardeners rarely do this. Even a month or 2 weeks before planting, holes are not always dug, although this significantly increases the survival rate of the tree.

Apple trees, depending on the variety, can be of different sizes. Depending on this, the size of the pit for planting is calculated:

The dimensions indicated in the table can be changed upwards. In any case, the tree must be planted so that the root can be freely placed in the hole. It is unlikely that a 1-2-year-old plant will have it larger than the indicated sizes. But if this happens, the pit will have to be widened or deepened.

With a close standing of groundwater, the bottom is lowered by 20-30 cm, and the additional space is filled with drainage - crushed stone, gravel, red brick chips, then covered with sand.

When digging a hole, the top fertile soil layer is set aside to prepare a nutrient mixture for planting. How thick it will be depends on the composition of the soil. For example, on chernozems, the fertile layer goes deep into the depths of about the bayonet of a shovel. In any case, this can usually be determined visually.

It is better to plant an apple tree on a neutral, humus-rich, loose soil. Unfortunately, the soil does not always meet the requirements of the culture. And on long-lived areas, it is usually depleted, worked out. You will have to cultivate it yourself before planting in the fall:

  • even on good soils, add 5 liters of humus or compost to a bucket of fertile soil
  • 2 times more organic matter is poured into the sandy loam
  • in sandy soil, in addition to an additional dose of humus, add clay
  • acidic soil requires improvement with lime or dolomite flour (up to 1 kg per planting pit)
  • sand is added to dense clay soil.

There is no exact recipe for preparing a nutrient mixture for planting, up to a gram. The soil is at least a little bit different for everyone. In addition, the ecological situation in the region and the depth of the aquifers are of great importance.

To complete the preparation of the pit for planting, it needs to be filled up to half with the nutrient mixture. Then completely fill with water and let stand.

What fertilizers to apply when planting an apple tree in autumn

If fertilizers are added to the nutrient mixture before planting the apple tree, the tree is not fed for the next 3 years. True, this does not apply to early spring watering with ammonium nitrate, but this can be limited to.

Each planting hole is introduced:

  • superphosphate - 0.3 kg
  • wood ash (source of potassium) - 1 l.

The fertilizer must be mixed well with the nutrient mixture.

Instead of ash and superphosphate, in the fall, before planting in the pit, you can add nitroammophos - 0.5 kg.

Selection and preparation of apple seedlings

How to choose the right variety is a separate topic. You need to plant only zoned apple trees. But if the variety does not fit a little, and you really want to buy it, you should remember two rules:

  • the nursery where the seedling intended for the more southern region was grown should be located north of the planting site
  • a variety that prefers location in a colder zone should be brought from the southern regions.

Saplings at the age of 1-2 years will take root best of all. When choosing, you should pay attention to the following points:

  1. Vaccination site. It should be smooth, clean and well-tightened without the slightest sign of damage.
  2. Roots. Must be moist and pliable, well developed and branched. An unpleasant smell of the root system, signs of rotting, spots of any color - all these signs should make you refuse to buy. If you plant such an apple tree, it will not live long or will be constantly ill.
  3. If the seedling is dug out in advance, its root should be dipped in a clay mash or wrapped in a damp cloth or plastic.
  4. A smooth bark without cracks or blemishes is a good sign.
  5. The branches (if any) from the trunk should be 45-90⁰ apart. If the shoots are directed vertically upward, the seedling should be discarded.
  6. A leafy apple tree with an open root is not worth buying - after planting it will not take root well.
  7. The greenish bark when purchased in the fall, as well as the high height of the seedling, signals about overfeeding with nitrogen or stimulants. You should not expect anything good from planting such an apple tree.

Preparing a seedling for moving into the ground consists in soaking the root for a day. It is better to add root or heteroauxin to the water. If the apple tree cannot be planted the next day after purchase, any potassium-containing fertilizer is added to the root formation stimulants. Prolonged soaking washes out this element.

Before planting the apple tree, the stem is shortened to about a height of 90 cm. The side branches, located at a height of up to 40 cm from the grafting site, are completely removed, the rest are shortened by 2/3.

The open root is carefully examined, all too long processes are cut off so that they do not bend during planting. Remove dry or broken parts.

How to plant an apple tree in autumn

The pit was dug and settled, the seedling was prepared. It remains to plant an apple tree:

  1. At the bottom of the pit, a mound is formed from the nutrient mixture.
  2. An apple tree is placed on it and the roots are evenly distributed so that they do not bend up.
  3. The grafting site should be 5-6 cm above the soil level. Planting the apple tree at the correct depth is easier if you place a shovel handle on the edge of the hole. So it will be clearly visible at what distance from the ground the vaccine is.
  4. So that the seedling does not move, a peg is driven into the center of the pit and an apple tree is tied to it in two places. Even if the soil subsides after watering, the apple tree will remain at the same level. In addition, the support will not allow the young tree to sway in the wind. Strong gusts can even lead to the fact that only the roots that have grown back after planting break off.
  5. The pit is filled with a nutrient mixture, constantly ramming it to avoid the formation of voids. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots during planting.
  6. When the hole is filled, the soil is carefully trampled down with the foot, starting from the outer edge.
  7. The near-trunk circle is made out with a roller from the remaining earth. The recommended height of the side is about 8 cm. You can surround the apple tree with a border tape - it will not be washed off by rain and will not be accidentally trampled by owners or pets.
  8. The seedling is watered abundantly so that the water fills the cavity formed by an earthen roller or tape. Usually 20-30 liters are consumed per tree.
  9. When the soil has completely absorbed the liquid, the trunk circle is mulched with peat or humus.

Planting an apple tree with a closed root system in the fall

The rules for planting an apple tree grown in a container in autumn are not too different from those described above. The tree needs to be watered the day before. Before planting, it is pulled out of the container along with an earthen lump, trying not to destroy it. Then they are installed on an earthen mound (there is no need to straighten the roots). Instructions follow.


Watch the video: Easy Way to Grow Grapes from Cuttings


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