An interesting novelty of the potato market: Barin variety


Choosing a potato variety for planting is a responsible decision. After all, this vegetable grows for a long time, occupies a large area and brings a significant harvest. That is why it is so important to know more about the different varieties and varieties of potatoes in order to make the right decision.

Description of Barin potatoes

Barin potatoes were included in the Russian register relatively recently, in 2014. It is considered the descendant of the European Baron, a stable and productive variety. The originator of the Barin variety is VNIIKH im. A.G. Lorkha. For Russia, Barin is still zoned for the Central Region.

Barin potato bushes grow medium in height, but sometimes high, up to 50 cm. Leaves are medium, green, rich and juicy. The tubers themselves have an elongated oval shape and a light brown skin of medium density. Each potato weighs 90-120 grams. The tuber is elongated, with a light beige skin. The pulp is white.

The variety is considered mid-season, and the harvest should be expected 80–90 days after planting.

Potatoes should be planted only after positive night temperatures have been established.

Gardeners fell in love with Barin potatoes for their beautiful appearance, stable yield and unpretentious care

Summer residents praise this variety for its beautiful appearance, stable yield and unpretentious care. That is why these potatoes are also grown on farms.

Characteristics of Barin potatoes

Each bush of Barin potatoes grows 8–12 potatoes. At the same time, the average yield per one hundred square meters is about 250-300 kg, and the maximum, with proper plant care, reaches 400 kg per one hundred square meters. Such indicators are higher than the average for varieties in Russia, which allows you to grow Barin even in small gardens and at the same time get a sufficient amount of root crops for your own use.

The taste of Barin potatoes is assessed as excellent. White pulp does not change color during cooking, while it falls apart slightly. The variety has a table purpose: potatoes can be used for making salads, soups, cooking and frying. The starch level in root vegetables ranges from 13 to 15%, which allows the Barin variety to be used for the production of chips and French fries on an industrial scale.

Potato pulp Barin is white and tender

In addition to excellent taste and excellent yield, the Barin variety has very good indicators of resistance to various potato diseases. When planting this variety, you do not have to worry about diseases such as:

  • striped mosaic;
  • wrinkled mosaic;
  • potato cancer.

And also the variety is very resistant to such a dangerous fungal disease of potatoes as late blight. The plant almost does not get sick with this fungus, either tubers or tops. At the same time, the Barin variety can be susceptible to the golden potato cyte-forming nematode. This disease is in fact caused by a pest. It does not allow potatoes to develop, while tubers are spoiled, and the tops grow small and frail.

To avoid this disease, you should follow some rules:

  1. Carefully inspect the potatoes when digging and sort healthy individuals.
  2. Dry potatoes before storing.
  3. Inspect the seed.
  4. Before planting, treat potatoes with Gumi, Bulba or Albit preparations.
  5. Observe the crop rotation and plant only legumes and vegetables (not nightshade) after potatoes for 3-4 years.
  6. Before planting, treat the soil with urea at the rate of 100 g per square meter of area.
  7. In the fall, carry out a deep digging of the garden.
  8. Plant marigolds and calendula in the aisles of potatoes.

And also the soil and plants can be treated with chemicals. Two weeks before planting potatoes, Nematicide is used, and the plants themselves are treated with BI-58 up to 4 times per season with an interval of at least 4–5 days in the course of development.

Video: all about the potato nematode

Tips and reviews about the variety Barin

To get a full harvest of potatoes, you need to properly care for them. The main task is to provide the root crop with a sufficient amount of nutrients. To do this, before planting, the soil is dug up with the addition of organic fertilizers. You can use 15–20 kg of cow dung per square meter of area. And fertilization of the earth with humus and peat is also suitable at the rate of 20-25 kg for each m2... Superphosphate, 70 g per meter, can be used as mineral fertilizers.

If you are a supporter of organic farming, a few weeks before planting potatoes on the site, you can plant green manure plants, for example, mustard or lupine, and then dig up the soil along with the sprouts. This will enrich the land and allow the potatoes to get the necessary chemical elements naturally.

You need to plant potatoes on light and fertile soils. Hard and acidic soil will not allow this vegetable to produce a good harvest. To reduce the acidity of the soil (it should be about 6.5–7 pH), dolomite flour can be used at the rate of 350–400 g per square meter of land. This procedure is called liming the soil.

The selection of planting material must be done in the fall, when harvesting. At the same time, potatoes are chosen that are healthy in appearance, do not have external damage and are small in size (up to 70 grams is preferable).

Before planting, potatoes are placed in a bright, warm room so that the eyes on it become strong and dense. It is best to plant a potato that has 1.5–2 cm eyes. To disinfect tubers and prevent possible diseases, it is recommended to immerse the potatoes for 1 minute in a solution of copper sulfate before planting. For its preparation, 10-15 g of the chemical are taken for 3 liters of water.

Tubers with such eyes will surely give an excellent harvest.

Summer residents have not yet completely tasted the Barin variety, but here are some reviews you can find about it on the Internet:

I did not like Barin (sse or se, reluctance to specify). Clumsy and did not understand the taste. I will try again.

The potato variety Barin is still little known for the domestic vegetable grower, since it was entered into the State Register only a few years ago. But at the same time, the variety is very good in description. So if you choose potatoes for planting, be sure to try Barin to form your own opinion about him.


Blackcurrant Lazy: description of the variety, characteristics, photo

The variety was bred by scientists S. Knyazev, L. Bayanova and T. Ogoltsova at the end of the last century at the All-Russian Research Institute of Breeding of Fruit Crops when crossing the varieties Bredthorp and Minai. Since 1995, it has been introduced into the State Register and recommended for the North-West, Central, Volgo-Vyatka and Middle Volga regions.

The lazy black currant was bred at the end of the last century and since then has been very popular among gardeners.

The unusual name - Lazy - acquired the variety due to the late ripening period: the berries ripen in August, by which time other species of this culture have already borne fruit. There are few such late-ripening varieties. Among the features are also the very large size of the fruit and the sweet taste.

Characteristic

The currant forms a tall, medium-spreading bush with straight, strong, smooth shoots of a light green hue, golden at the top. The leaves are five-lobed, large, green, shiny, without pubescence, with short wide denticles at the edges. Buds are medium in size, cone-shaped, pinkish-purple in color, formed along the entire length of the branches. The currant blooms with flowers similar to bells, with reddish petals. Inflorescences are medium in size, located on drooping, long, up to 8 cm racemes.

Lazy currant grows in a tall, spreading bush with powerful branches

The main advantage of the variety is its large rounded berries, weighing 2.5-3.1 g, brownish-black, sweet. They contain: sugars - 8.3%, vitamin C - 157.0 mg%. The taste is rated at 4.5–5 points. The berries are non-uniform. The pulp is juicy, of medium density, the skin is of small thickness. On average, 110.5 centners are harvested from 1 hectare.

On a note. Self-fertility of the Lazy Man - 45%, can bear fruit without additional pollinators. But to improve the taste and increase the yield, it is recommended to plant other varieties nearby: Binar, Ojebin, Pilot Mamkin, Belorusskaya sweet.

The variety is also valued for its frost resistance - it tolerates even severe frosts (-34), therefore it is widely cultivated in the Leningrad and Pskov regions. In addition, the Lazy Man is resistant to pathogens of such common diseases as powdery mildew and anthracnose, and is rarely affected by a kidney mite (1 point). The disadvantages include non-simultaneous ripening of the crop, shedding of ripe berries and a low level of transportability.

Blackcurrant variety Lazybear is valued for its large, sweet berries


Growing and care

Before planting, the potatoes should be germinated and sorted out. To do this, 20-30 days before planting, the potatoes are taken to a warmer room. The normal temperature for germination is 5–7 ° C.

Next, you need to divide the tubers into small fractions. One fraction should weigh no more than 35-50 grams. The fractions should be planted at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other. With a strong thickening, the root system will not form well, and this will negatively affect the formation of tubers. This planting scheme allows you to plant approximately 40 thousand tubers per hectare. The "Aladdin" variety should be planted deeper than other varieties. The hole must be at least ten centimeters deep. It is undesirable to use growth regulators, since the variety reacts poorly to them.

Shoots can be broken off no more than once. Frequent breaking off negatively affects the formation of tubers, and their number can be significantly reduced. The variety reacts well to organic and mineral fertilizers. You can alternate these feeds, and also use nitrogen fertilizers in small quantities.

Like any potato, "Aladdin" needs frequent weeding and loosening of the soil. There is no need to water the bushes, watering should be done only between rows, and only in very dry weather. After watering, it would be good to loosen the soil, because this will be much easier. Loosening has a very good effect on potatoes, since after it oxygen will penetrate much better to the root system. Potatoes should be piled up after their height reaches 10-12 centimeters. Before this, the soil should be moistened.

Cereals are good predecessors. You can plant potatoes in the same place after 3 years.


Landing features

Planting Grushenka's gooseberries follows the standard rules. The main thing is to comply with the terms and recommendations.

Boarding time

Experienced gardeners, planting Grushenka's gooseberries, prefer the autumn period. To be more precise, the first half of the season (late September - early October). During this favorable period, the seedling manages not only to take root, but also to build up the root system, before the arrival of frosty weather.

It is also possible to plant in the spring, but there is a likely risk of being late due to the early onset of the vegetative period. If you plant a seedling whose leaves have begun to bloom, then the process of engraftment will take a long time and the young plant may suffer in the first winter.

The optimal time for planting Grushenka is autumn.

Suitable place and soil

With regard to the composition of the soil, the Grushenka variety is very tolerant, which simplifies maintenance. This gooseberry will grow and bear fruit on almost all types of soil, but loam is considered the ideal soil. Good looseness of the earth, its air and moisture permeability, nutritional value are welcomed. You should also take into account the acidity of the soil. To make the reaction close to neutral, use dolomite flour or lime during site preparation.

The gooseberry has a very powerful root system that grows deeper, capable of providing itself with moisture on its own. Therefore, areas with a high occurrence of groundwater must be abandoned. Young roots die from excess moisture. In the flooded lowlands, it is recommended to plant Grushenka on artificial hills.

Gooseberry Grushenka does not tolerate transplants, so you need to choose a site for planting carefully. Lighted areas are good. Light partial shade is acceptable during the hottest period of the day, but not a dense shade. Another condition for the normal development of the seedling is protection from the north and east wind. For this reason, gardeners often plant gooseberries along fences or buildings.

Traditionally, bright and protected from the wind places are selected for gooseberries.

Do not plant Grushenka in areas where currants or other varieties of gooseberries have just been uprooted. Vegetable crops are good predecessors.

Preparing the soil and planting pit

In order to comply with absolutely all the rules for soil preparation, you need to start preparations for planting gooseberries in a year. Green manures (lupine or vetch) are planted on the selected site. Some gardeners recommend using areas where dahlias were grown before the gooseberry. These noble flowers suppress weeds, including wheatgrass. In the preparatory period, they try to make the land more nutritious. To do this, the following substances are introduced under deep digging, having previously distributed them over the soil surface (the amount of fertilizer is calculated for 10 m 2):

  • manure or humus in the amount of 15 kg
  • phosphate rock - 2 kg
  • potassium salt - 0.4 kg.

When adding phosphate rock, lime or dolomite flour may not be used to deoxidize the soil.

On heavy soils containing a lot of clay, during the preparatory period, in addition to fertilizers, a large amount of sand is applied so that the earth can quickly remove excess moisture.

In the preparatory period before planting, it is important to properly fertilize the soil.

A planting pit is prepared in a month. If the landing is planned for the spring, then dig a hole and fill in the fall.

  1. On a plot of land cleared of plant residues, we dig a hole 50/50 cm in size.
  2. If preliminary soil preparation with fertilization has not been carried out, then you can replenish the supply of nutrients at the stage of preparing the pit. To do this, add the following to the top layer of the earth that was set aside during digging:
    • 100 g ash
    • 50 g double superphosphate
    • 40 g potassium sulfate
    • 5 kg of organic matter.
  3. We mix all the components well and add them to the planting pit.

If you are planting several bushes, then in order to avoid unnecessary thickening of the plantings, you need to adhere to the recommended scheme: the distance between the bushes should be from 1 to 2 m.

Sapling selection

This is an important point. It depends on the correct choice of planting material how much the potential of the variety will unfold in the future. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the following points:

  1. The length of the skeletal roots is at least 14 cm. The root system itself must be fluffy and fibrous. Color - brown-yellow. The absence of black spots and mechanical damage indicates healthy roots.
  2. The presence of developed shoots - at least 3 pcs. Length - from 40 cm. The bark is light, elastic, without spots or damage.
  3. Examine the foliage. It should be of an even color, without yellowness.
  4. Make sure the seedling is not infested with pests.

It is best to buy seedlings in the fall. A large selection allows you to correctly assess the condition of the tree.

To make the harvest happy, choose only healthy seedlings.

Step-by-step planting process

Before planting, be sure to assess the condition of the root system and prepare the seedling. To do this, soak the roots for 12 hours in water with a dissolved root formation stimulant (for example, Kornevin, Kornerost, Heteroauxin).Then cut off the shoots, leaving 5-6 buds, and spray with any adaptogen - Zircon, Epin, or a crushed aloe leaf infused in water.

  1. In the middle of the hole, build a mound 9 cm high. Place a bush on its top and spread the roots with your hands.
  2. Cover the roots with soil, gently shaking the seedling so that the soil is better distributed between the roots.
  3. When the hole is half full, water the bush using a watering can with a shower head. After the liquid has been absorbed, add the remaining soil and water again.
  4. After 15 minutes, when there is no water left on the surface, mulch the root zone. To do this, use cut dried grass, hay, sawdust or humus.

Video: planting gooseberries in spring

Gooseberry Grushenka is an unpretentious variety. But to help the plant fully show its capabilities, it must be properly cared for.

Watering and loosening the soil

Grushenka tolerates dry periods well, but it is still not worth allowing the soil to completely dry out, especially during high temperatures when moisture evaporates very quickly.

Frequent watering is not suitable for Grushenka. Enough 4 moisturizing per season:

  • at the end of flowering
  • when the ovaries begin to form
  • during the ripening of berries
  • before wintering - in October.

The first two waterings will have a positive effect on the size of the fruit, on the taste and juiciness. Moisturizing before winter will relieve the roots of dryness, which will help prevent freezing.

For the gooseberry planted in spring, more frequent watering is required, since the plant must successfully pass the adaptation period and grow roots.

With each watering, it is enough to pour 15–20 liters of water under the bush. Moreover, watering is carried out only according to the projection of the crown, in specially designed circles. In the hottest period, you can additionally moisturize the plants, but only if you notice leaves withering during the day or drying and sluggish fruits.

Water the gooseberry bush in a specially formed circle

It is important to use warm water for watering Grushenka. The gooseberry root system does not like the contrasting difference in soil and water temperatures.

For the normal development of gooseberries, you need to keep the soil around the bush clean. It is important to get rid of weeds in time, which takes some of the nutrients from the plant, and loosen the soil in order to improve air exchange in the root system. On heavy soils, shallow digging can be used; for light soils, simple loosening will suffice.

During the growing season, it is necessary to carry out at least 4 loosening.

Top dressing

The fertilizers added to the planting pit will provide the gooseberries with nutrition for 3 years. From the age of 4, you will need to regularly add nutrients. With proper nutrition, Grushenka will delight you with large and sweet berries.

Fertilization table

Period Fertilizers
In March - April, until
budding
Urea, ammonium nitrate and ammonium nitrate
10–20 g per 1 m 2
End of May - beginning
June, in the period
ovary formation
At the time of pouring berries Wood ash. Up to 400 g per bush
In autumn Superphosphate - 45 g and potassium salt - 30 g per 1 m 2.
Before the last digging in October, compost is added. Manure is used as mulch

Pruning

Grushenka does not like thickening of the bush. A poorly ventilated plant can easily become affected by a fungal disease, the branches age quickly, the productivity of the gooseberry decreases.

The formation of a bush is carried out for the first 5 years:

  1. The first pruning is done at the time of planting. Weak shoots are completely cut. On strong ones - up to 5 buds are left.
  2. In the second year and in subsequent years, 3-5 of the strongest and most well-located shoots are selected from the overgrown zero shoots. The unripe ends are pinched for better branching. The rest are removed.
  3. The formed Grushenka bush should have 5 main shoots and from 12 to 20 branches of different ages.

The formation of a gooseberry bush is carried out for the first 5 years.

Pruning mature bushes is as follows:

  • regulation of the number of branches by removing unnecessary zero shoots
  • cutting out sick, old (who are more than 3 years old), poorly fertile, growing in the middle of the bush
  • spring removal of frozen and wind-broken branches.

Video: pruning gooseberries

Support

Gooseberry Grushenka is densely covered with berries during fruiting. From the abundance of the harvest, the branches often fall on the ground. To avoid such problems, prepare props from hard wire or wooden blocks in advance.

To prevent the branches from falling on the ground under the weight of the crop, you can build a support

Preparing for winter

If you follow agricultural techniques, water, cut and feed the bush on time, then an adult plant does not need shelter, as it is able to overcome the winter period. It will not hurt unless a large snowdrift that can be collected around the gooseberry. In a snowless winter, it will be useful to cover the root area with a layer of manure.

Young seedlings are more vulnerable. For their safe wintering, you can use a non-woven covering material and a thick layer of mulch.

Adult well-groomed gooseberry bush Grushenka is not afraid of frosts


Agrotechnics

Raspberries of the remontant type are more demanding on nutrition, moisture, light than ordinary varieties.

Top dressing

At the beginning of the season, when there is an intensive build-up of green mass, preference is given to nitrogen fertilizers. Urea (30 g / m 2) is added every 10 days. In the middle of summer, shrubs are fertilized with nitrophosphate (60 g / 10 l), at the end of the season - with superphosphate (50 g) and potassium salt (40 g / m 2). For regular feeding, you can use Kemir's complex fertilizer (50 g / 10 l) at the rate of 500 g of solution per bush.

Remaining raspberries have a much higher nutritional requirement than ordinary raspberries, but their yield is 2 times higher.

Organic fertilizers are not inferior in composition to mineral additives. Under the bushes, solutions of mullein or chicken droppings rich in nitrogen compounds are introduced every 10 days. They are diluted in water 1:10 and 1:20 and the plants are fed (5 l solution / m 2). After applying the fermenting liquid, the soil should be well watered. The source of calcium, potassium, magnesium and other elements necessary for the plant is ash (500 g / m 2).

A good feed for raspberries is nettle infusion. 1 kg of grass is poured into 20 liters of water, 3 kg of manure and 200 g of ash are added. Leave to ferment for a week. The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and 500 ml is introduced under the bush.

Root dressing should be combined with foliar dressing. Application of liquid fertilizers Uniflor-micro (1 tbsp. L / 10 l), Kristalon (30 g / 10 l) to the sheet allows you to quickly replenish the deficiency of trace elements, has a general strengthening effect on plants, and helps to increase yields.

Fertilization on the leaf allows you to quickly saturate the plants with the necessary nutrients

Watering and loosening

The culture is hygrophilous; in extreme heat, in the absence of watering, the berries become very shallow. Moisten the raspberry tree every 7 days (10 liters per bush). However, stagnation of water with excessive watering has a depressing effect on plants.

There are several ways to irrigate a raspberry tree: sprinkling, through grooves, drip irrigation. It is better to supply water through a drip system, which allows you to directly moisturize the rhizome and significantly save water consumption. This type of irrigation is especially convenient on large plantations.

With drip irrigation, water evenly flows through the droppers in belts to the plant roots

When watering along grooves made around a bush or along a row to a depth of 15 cm, water is brought in from a bucket or hose. After absorbing moisture, the grooves must be sealed. On hot days, it is advisable to use sprinkler irrigation with sprinklers, which moistens not only the soil, but the entire bush. Such watering is carried out in the morning and evening hours to avoid foliage burns and reduce moisture evaporation. Before the onset of cold weather, in the absence of rain, pre-winter watering is required (20 l / bush).

When simulating rain, the soil around the plants, leaves and shoots is well moistened

After each watering, the soil is loosened to remove the crust that prevents air from reaching the roots. Loosening in the root zone is carried out to a depth of no more than 7 cm. Then mulch is laid - hay, straw, humus. A mulching layer 10 cm thick improves the structure of the soil, does not allow moisture to evaporate quickly, and protects the roots from freezing in winter.

Growing on a trellis

The raspberry Bryanskoe miracle has long side shoots, they can break under strong gusts of wind. Lodging of branches loaded with crops is also possible, since the berries are distributed over 2/3 of their length. Therefore, it is necessary to tie the shoots to the support. It is not difficult to install it yourself. A stake is installed near the bush, to which the bush is tied.

With a linear planting of the raspberry tree along the row, every 3 m, pillars are dug in and the wire is pulled in 2 rows. Tying shoots to the trellis is carried out at a height of 50 cm and 1.2 m. You can use the fan method of tying to the support. On both sides of the bush, pegs are installed, to which part of the stems of one plant and part of the branches of the neighboring plant are tied at different heights.

To protect the shoots from lodging under the weight of berries, raspberries are grown on a trellis

Pruning

Pruning remontant raspberries has its own characteristics. If the berry is grown for one late summer harvest, all shoots are mowed at the end of October. If they plan to get 2 crops per season, only two-year-old stems that have fruited are removed, annual ones are shortened by 15 cm.

At the beginning of the season, they examine the bush, remove the dried stems. In the summer, excess shoots and root suckers are cut off, leaving no more than 6 branches to provide them with adequate nutrition. With this pruning, the bush is well ventilated and evenly illuminated.

Raspberry pruning is carried out when cold weather sets in, shoots are cut at ground level

The berries begin to ripen from the top, gradually descending to the lower tiers. If the lowest flowers are removed at the bud stage, the remaining fruits will be noticeably larger and sweeter.

Video: how to trim remontant raspberries

Preparing for winter

The variety is frost-resistant, winters well in central Russia without shelter. The root system can withstand a significant drop in temperature with a snow cover of 30 cm. However, in snowless winters, with a sharp change in severe frosts with thaws, the rhizomes can freeze slightly. Prolonged rains in warm autumn promote the growth of new shoots, which also reduces the level of winter hardiness.

Annual shoots are bent in an arc, tied to a stretched wire and covered with non-woven material

If you plan to get two crops, only two-year-old shoots are cut. Annuals are left. The root zone is moistened, mulched with humus. The left branches are bent, attached to the established arcs and covered with agrofibre.

Double fruiting greatly weakens the plants, decreases their winter hardiness, this method is recommended only for the southern regions. In temperate climates, late summer fruiting with the removal of the aboveground part is more productive. When the cold weather sets in, all the shoots are mowed, the area is cleared of leaves and debris, watered and a layer of mulch is laid. In this case, insulation is not required.

Reproduction

Raspberry Bryanskoe miracle gives few replacement shoots, and little root suckers are formed - 2–4 per bush, so it does not fill the garden space and does not drown out the crops growing in the neighborhood. Several methods are used for breeding varieties.

The culture is easily propagated by green cuttings. In June, young shoots 5 cm high are cut underground and planted in a greenhouse at an angle of 45 degrees. Moisturize and ventilate regularly. Rooting takes 2 weeks. Green plants need to be fed with complex fertilizer and a week later planted in the garden according to the 10x30 scheme for growing. In the fall, they are transplanted to a prepared place.

It is easy to propagate raspberries by cuttings

Raspberries are also bred using root cuttings. At the end of the season, the roots are cut into 10 cm pieces and planted in a fertilized area. Water, mulch the soil and cover with ephedra for the winter. In early spring, having freed the beds from spruce branches, stretch a film over them. When green offspring appear, the film is removed. In the fall, the seedlings are transplanted.

Video: reproduction of raspberries by root cuttings

You can divide the bush into parts with a root and shoots and plant it separately. The branches must be shortened to 45 cm.

A bush with well-developed roots can be divided into several parts

The seed propagation method is rarely used, it is rather laborious and does not guarantee the preservation of varietal traits.


Reviews about strawberry Malvina

Today we tried Malvina. The berry is large, beautiful, bright red. Commodity. There is a small void inside. Sweet, slightly sour, aromatic. They immediately tried Darselect, his aroma and taste are, of course, richer. However, I think that Malvina will take her place on my site.

Zhenya

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=3595

Malvina surprises with her strength of growth and endurance. Everyone who comes to the site pays attention to strong, sturdy bushes. On the bushes of spring planting there are 6-8 horns, in August - 3-4 horns.

Svetlana (Kharkiv)

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=3595&page=2

I have Malvina for the second year. A very valuable variety, it has proven itself well in the last hot dry summer, and this cold and rainy one. The berry is sweet, juicy, aromatic, and has an amazing taste.

Natasha

http://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=6987&start=15

Malvina. She did not process anything, did not feed him, she did not even give anything to the hole. The soil after potatoes, then mustard, was mulched with a thick layer of grass. Actively began to grow only after the July rains, watering with a hose, that the elephant was grated on my land and full of sun.

Tyra

http://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=6987&start=60

We ate Malvina today - great taste and appearance. Ksima tried again, she got sweet, I don't know why the first ones were sour. But still I liked Malvina better.

tatmi

http: //sib-sad.rf/viewtopic.php? p = 20676

Strawberry Malvina has established itself as an unpretentious crop with excellent characteristics. The only inconvenience is that it needs a lot of free space. But it is worth finding a small piece of land in the sun to enjoy the taste of the fleeting summer.


Watch the video: potatoes explained.


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