Correct planting and care of garden strawberries

Strawberries are a favorite children's delicacy. A rare summer resident does not cultivate at least a small plot with this berry on his site. Strawberries can be small-fruited (alpine) and large-fruited (garden)... The first is a cultivated forest species (Fragaria vesca var.alpina). The second does not occur in the wild. It is about her that will be discussed in the material.

Garden strawberries and strawberries: feel the difference!

Garden strawberry species is also called Pineapple strawberry, from the Latin name Fragaria ananassa. Of course, this plant has nothing to do with pineapples. We owe its origin to the process of free cross-pollination between Chilean and Virginian strawberries. Today there are about 10 thousand varieties of garden strawberries, which are often mistakenly called strawberries..

Strawberries and garden strawberries are different species of the same botanical genus... It is impossible to find real strawberries on store shelves, and on the beds it grows only among collectors and breeders. In nature, this plant grows in the southern regions of Russia, Europe and Central Asia. Strawberry has a number of significant differences from garden strawberries:

  1. Strawberries are much smaller, more rounded, their color is closer to purple-crimson rather than red.
  2. Strawberry fruits and flowers are carried on the shoots above the leaves, and strawberries are located at the bottom.
  3. Strawberry fruit difficult to separate from bracts.
  4. Strawberry flowers dioecious, therefore, very few fruits are formed on the bushes.

The taste and aroma of strawberries and strawberries are usually equally well expressed.

From a strictly scientific point of view, the fruits of plants of the Strawberry genus are not berries, but nuts, the very ones that are commonly called "seeds". The juicy edible part, bearing many fruits, is formed by the growth of the receptacle.

How to choose a variety for growing on a personal plot?

When choosing a variety of garden strawberries for planting, you must first of all decide on the type of fruiting. Common plants bloom and yield once a season. Repaired fruits bear during the entire growing season.

Having fresh berries on the table all summer is a tempting prospect. But the remontant varieties, in addition to advantages, have some disadvantages:

Fruiting throughout the growing season

High yield

Saving space on the site (there is no need to keep several varieties with different ripening periods)

Less frost resistance

Great need for fertilizers and irrigation

Early aging of the bush associated with the depletion of the generative resources of the plant

The second important point when choosing is the purpose of the fruits... It is necessary to decide what the strawberries will be grown for: for fresh consumption, for conservation or for sale.

Fragrant varieties

Among the varieties with an excellent dessert taste and aroma are:

  • Deroyal;
  • Kimberly;
  • Lambada;
  • Polka;
  • Vima Tarda;
  • Mise Schindler;
  • Pineberry.

Berries for conservation and freezing

Strawberries to be used for conservation or freezingshould have a denser consistency. For this purpose, varieties are suitable:

  • Vima Zanta;
  • Kent;
  • Suzy;
  • Tago;
  • Totem;
  • Camarose;
  • Avis Delight.

The best remontant varieties

It is better to take remontant or photoneutral varieties for sale.that can give the harvest to the maximum. In addition, the fruits of such strawberries should be well stored and transportable. For example:

  • Mara de Bois;
  • Queen Elizabeth II;
  • Diamond;
  • Albion;
  • Evie 2;
  • Victoria.

Other factors that need to be taken into account when selecting a variety of garden strawberries are ease of care and resistance to weather conditions. If it is not possible to spend a lot of time in the beds and take care of the bushes, preference should be given to mustache-free varieties. In regions with harsh winters it is important to choose frost-resistant strawberries. In humid climates resistance to fungal infections becomes a serious argument.

How to prepare planting material?

For the successful cultivation of garden strawberries, it is not enough to buy a good variety and plant it in a garden bed. Seedlings must be properly prepared before planting:

  1. Examine the bushes, to discard the sick and weak, with a poorly developed apical kidney.
  2. Cut roots up to a length of 7-10 cm.
  3. For 2 hours place the roots in a solution of the drug "Fitosporin-M"... This will protect the seedlings from a range of fungal and bacterial infections.
  4. Powder the roots powder of a root formation stimulator ("Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin").

Instead of stimulants, you can use the old "old-fashioned" method and cook a clay chatterbox: dilute the clay in 10 liters of water to the consistency of liquid sour cream and add 1 kg of well-rotted manure. The roots of strawberries are dipped in this solution, dried for half an hour and planted in well-moistened pits.

It is better to plant strawberry seedlings immediately after purchase. You can store it for a short time - 2-3 days, digging in a cool, damp place.

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache and horns, planting and care

Most varieties of garden strawberries easily throws out air layers - mustache carrying young rosettes. If you want to propagate your favorite variety, choose a strong, prolific bush and leave 3 antennae on it. Without separating the daughter outlet from the mother bush, it is fixed to the ground, added dropwise and watered. If the branch has a continuation behind the outlet, it is pinched.

It usually takes about a month to root.... After the young plant has taken root, it is separated from the parent bush, dug up and transferred to a permanent place.

If the variety does not give a mustache, you can propagate it by dividing the bush - the so-called "horns". Horns are rosettes formed on a common uterine rhizome... The older the strawberry bush, the more horns it can have.

The bushes are usually divided in the spring. The plant must be dug up and lowered by roots in a basin of water. Having washed off the ground, the bush is examined and with a knife they are separated by one outlet with a section of rhizome... As a rule, strawberries divide very easily, and you can even do without a knife. Daughter plants are immediately planted in a permanent place.

Seed propagation of garden strawberries is often practiced. In this way, mustacheless varieties are well bred, and it is much cheaper than buying seedlings.

Diseases and pests, prevention in spring and autumn

Even preplanting seedlings with fungicides will not protect strawberries from diseases for life. The plantation can be affected by some viral infections carried by aphids:

  1. Xanthosis... Young leaves and the center of the rosette lose chlorophyll and turn yellow. The leaves become smaller and curl upward, and strongly shortened petioles are formed.
  2. Rugosity... Pale spots appear on the leaves. In these areas, tissue growth stops, the sheet bends and becomes wrinkled.
  3. Greening the petals... The corolla of the flower is small, with greenish petals. The set fruits dry, without having time to ripen, the plant dies.
  4. Verticillary wilting... The leaves turn pale, stunted, the plant takes on a depressed, flattened appearance. The plant can die in a few days (fulminant form) and in 2-3 years (chronic form).

The main preventive measure against the spread of strawberry diseases on the site is the cultivation of varieties that are immune to them.... Diseased plants must be removed and burned immediately. It is very important to deal with pests in a timely manner.

In addition to aphids, strawberries can be affected by spider and strawberry mites, weevils, raspberry flower beetles, green bugs, wireworms, and nematodes. For prevention in spring before flowering it is necessary to carry out the treatment with "Horus" or "HOM" preparations.

To prevent fungal infections will help weekly watering and periodic spraying of strawberry plantation with a solution of the drug "Fitosporin-M".

Strawberry protection from heat and frost

Strawberries planted in a garden bed, until they take root and become effective, may suffer from the sun. It needs to be shaded. You can build a screen from a special sun screen. Some fruit growers simply cover the plantings with an inverted plywood box.

In the summer heat, it is important to prevent the soil from drying out under the strawberries.... The best way is mulching. As mulch, both all kinds of organic matter and black agrotextiles are used, which allow air and water to pass through.

In Central Russia and in the south, strawberries overwinter normally without special shelter. It is enough to sprinkle the sockets with a layer of peat or sawdust for the winter.... In colder regions, it is better to additionally put arcs over the bed and cover in autumn with thick agrospan in 2-3 layers.

To prevent the strawberries from suffocating and straightening out, you do not need to cover them until frost. Experienced summer residents advise doing this only when the temperature drops to -15⁰C. So the bushes have time to get hardened and become more stable.


Garden strawberries are a crop that is easy to cultivate on your garden plot. It multiplies easily, has many varieties for every taste and for any purpose.... With some effort to keep the planting free from disease and pest infestation, you can get a bigger return on your crop. And if you build racks for vertical or pyramidal placement of strawberry bushes, you will also save space. Not to mention aesthetic pleasure.

Strawberries or strawberries?

Our favorite berry, which is widely grown in orchards and gardens, sold in stores and used in desserts, is a garden strawberry. Many gardeners - gardeners mistakenly call it strawberries.

Strawberries are very similar to strawberries, but they are different types of plants. Strawberry leaves and leaf petioles, unlike strawberries, are heavily pubescent. The structure of the flower is also different. Strawberries have bisexual flowers, that is, all the bushes bear fruit. Strawberries have unisexual flowers. This means that on some bushes there are only male flowers (staminate) that do not bear fruit. Others have only female (pistillate) flowers that produce berries.

Ripening of strawberries occurs later. Its yield is much lower than that of strawberries. The color of the berries is paler. They are much smaller, but they have high taste and extraordinary aroma. However, the berries have a very delicate flesh and are practically not transported.

Nutritional value of strawberries

Strawberries are one of the leading berry crops. It has a low calorie content and is valued for its dietary and medicinal properties. The berry is rich in vitamins C, A, folic acid, which has a beneficial effect on blood function, pectins, flavonoids. In addition, it contains trace elements such as potassium, magnesium, zinc. Strawberries stimulate digestion, prevent a number of diseases, are recommended in some diets, are a part of yoghurts and confectionery.

Strawberries in desserts are exquisite and incomparable!

However, at the same time, strawberries have a fairly strong allergenicity. For the most part, this applies to berries grown in agricultural production and is due to pesticide treatments and the intensive use of agrochemicals. However, when berries are consumed, there may be an increase in histamine in the body, which in some individuals can cause allergies. If you are allergic to strawberries, a person may experience concomitant problems:

  • dysfunction of the digestive system - irritable bowel syndrome, colitis, gastritis, etc.
  • skin rashes - dermatitis, urticaria, and Quincke's edema
  • respiratory dysfunctions - bronchial asthma and allergic rhinitis.

But for most of the population, strawberries cause only positive emotions. Grow your own homemade strawberries. Proper planting and caring for strawberries will provide you with a high-quality harvest with a unique rich taste.

Features of strawberries

Strawberries, as an agricultural crop, have important advantages.

  1. Early maturity: in many areas this crop opens the season for the consumption of fresh berries. By planting strawberries in greenhouses and greenhouses, you can get a super early harvest.
  2. Early maturity - many varieties give significant yields already in the year of planting.
  3. Self-fertility - no pollinator variety is required to set berries (with the exception of single varieties).
  4. Excellent taste.

Strawberries belong to the Rosaceae family. The plant has a strongly thickened short stem. One-year growth is called a "horn". The horn has a rosette of leaves, and during the summer forms a peduncle and "mustache". The root is fibrous.

A young rooted rosette has one horn. As an exception, some varieties (Zenga-Zengana, Redgontlit, etc.) can form two or three horns in the first year. Horns are formed unevenly over the years. If in the first year the plant, as a rule, forms only one horn, then the next year there will be two or three, in the third - from eight to sixteen. The more strong horns are formed on the plant, the higher the yield will be. This factor is ensured by proper planting and care of strawberries. Pay close attention to the development of the horns. This is an indicator of the health of your strawberry.

Strawberry leaves hibernate under the snow. Most of them remain until the start of regrowth of new leaves and then die. Young leaves use the accumulations of the autumn period for growth. From the middle of August, the formation of potential for the next year's harvest begins. Therefore, it is during this period that every effort should be made to care for strawberries: to carry out the necessary feeding, weeding, protection from pests and diseases, and other measures.

Strawberry varieties

When cultivating strawberries, success largely depends on the correct selection of varieties. In addition to their productivity and ripening time, other indicators must be taken into account, for example, winter hardiness, drought resistance, resistance to pests and diseases, as well as the quality of berries.

However, the winter hardiness of strawberries depends not only on varietal characteristics. This indicator is influenced by the age of plants and the level of agricultural technology. Young plants overwinter better than old ones. In old ones, adventitious and carob roots are closer to the soil surface, they often protrude above it.

To obtain stable yields, three to four main regionalized varieties should be grown on the site. In the State Register of Varieties in 2021, 107 varieties of strawberries were registered.

Berry - strawberry

Growing features

Strawberry is a perennial herbaceous evergreen plant that forms dense bushes 25-30 cm high. During the growing season, new leaves are continuously formed on it, and the old ones gradually die off. Under the cover of snow, they persist during the winter, and in spring, at 2-3 ° C, their vital activity is resumed.

Strawberry leaves "sit" on shortened stems, which are called "horns". Each horn ends with a flower bud. The more strong horns are formed on the plant, the higher the yield will be. In highly branching varieties, four-year-old plants have up to 20-30 horns.

Long whisker shoots grow from the axillary buds of the lower leaves. The bulk of the whiskers appears after the berries are ripe. Buds (nodes) are located along the entire length of the whiskers, from which either rosettes of leaves with roots or new whiskers arise. Rooted rosettes are used as seedlings for vegetative propagation of strawberries.

The strawberry root system grows upward, not inward. This makes it difficult to root new growths.For this process to go well, hilling is necessary. Due to the superficial placement of the root system (20-25 cm), strawberries belong to moisture-loving plants, therefore, it does not work well in arid zones.

How to sow strawberries with seeds correctly?

Determine the sowing time

To obtain the first harvest of berries at the end of this summer, sowing must be carried out from the beginning of February to the end of March. Strawberries sprout in good light, so early sowing it is necessary to provide additional lighting.

Planting strawberries with seeds: preparing the soil and choosing a container for sowing

For growing strawberry seedlings, low (5-6 cm), but wide containers are used. It is convenient to use a ready-made plastic container with a lid. To remove excess water and better air circulation, punctures are made in the bottom and lid.

Neat holes in a plastic container are created by using a hot awl or needle.

The container is filled with soil. You can use your own potting soil mix from sand, vermiculite and leaf humus (1: 1: 1)... Ready-made soil for seedlings is also suitable (as we wrote earlier, soil for seedlings of the GreenWorld brand is ideal for these purposes). The soil is sieved before filling the container. Strawberries prefer loose, neutral soil, without excess nutrients.

It is useful to treat the soil with Maxim. This will help to avoid the defeat of young seedlings "black leg". The solution of the drug strengthens the immune system, stimulates plant growth, and also suppresses diseases.

When sowing, strawberry seeds (photo) are distributed on the surface of compacted soil without deepening. For sowing uniformity, use a mixture of seeds with sand or ready-made seeds in granules.ON THE PICTURE: The easiest way is to plant strawberry seeds in individual peat tablets.

Sowing strawberries with seeds: germination tips

You can increase seed germination by applying soaking before sowing... To do this, spread the seeds on a napkin moistened with snow or rain water (water from a reverse osmosis filter is also suitable). The water is changed twice a day. After 2–3 days of soaking, the germination inhibitors are destroyed in the seed coat.

Successful planting of strawberry seeds for seedlings is possible with the use of sowing techniques in the snow... To do this, a layer of snow is poured into a container with ready-made soil. It is compacted to a thickness of 1 cm and seeds are laid out on top. The container is closed with a lid or polyethylene and placed on the lower shelf in the refrigerator, where it is kept for 3 days. The advantage of this method is that, as the snow melts, the seeds are evenly distributed over the surface and are slightly drawn into the soil by the melt water. In parallel, they are stratified.ON THE PICTURE: This method of sowing allows you to evenly distribute the planting material, since the seeds are more noticeable against the background of snow.

After the end of the stratification stage, the containers are placed in a warm place with a temperature of +20 to + 25 ° C. On the windowsill, additional insulation from the bottom may be required (for example, a foam layer). Planting strawberries with seeds will not be successful if there is a lack of light. The containers are placed in the most illuminated place or under fluorescent lamps. Daily care of crops consists in airing, removing condensation on the container lid.

It is necessary to moisten the crops from a spray bottle, and only if the condensate has ceased to form.

Strawberry seeds usually sprout 1-2 weeks after sowing.

Growing garden blueberries

Blueberries are quite unpretentious, at the initial stage, after planting, caring for blueberries is reduced to timely watering and weeding. In subsequent periods, when the plant takes root and starts growing, additional care will be required, which will include annual pruning, protection from pests and diseases.


The upper, root layer of soil under fruit bushes should always be kept moist.

  1. Water the blueberries abundantly - 1-2 buckets of water per bush, twice a week.
  2. In hot weather, it is advisable to spray blueberries to reduce the stress of the leaves from overheating.
  3. Adequate watering of mature shrubs is especially important during the period of fruiting and bud formation.

In case of drought and lack of watering, blueberry fruits become shallower, the yield of this and next season decreases.

Top dressing

The plant is not demanding on fertility, however, the use of mineral fertilizers for blueberries replenishes the nutrients washed out of the soil during irrigation.

On soils with acidity from 3.5 to 4.8, it is recommended to use:

  • ammonium sulfate - 90 g
  • superphosphate - 110 g
  • potassium sulfate - 40 g.

The rate is calculated for 1 fruiting bush. Top dressing is carried out twice during the growing season, every 6-7 weeks.

When growing in a garden, it is advisable to use a simpler feeding method using complex mineral fertilizers.

Important! When feeding blueberries, it is completely forbidden to use any organic fertilizers.


A technique such as pruning seriously affects the growth and development of the bush. It can be used to change the quality of blueberries and the amount of harvest.

Annual pruning is done after 4 years of age.

  1. Thinning of shoots is carried out, cutting the middle, removing dry branches.
  2. Remove spreading, low-lying branches around the entire perimeter. Leave only erect, strong growths.
  3. Cut thin, small branches to provide adequate lighting and nutrition for strong, skeletal shoots.

Pruning fruiting bushes has a specific purpose. To obtain large berries, remove all branches older than five years of age. If yield is important, then it is permissible to keep the shoots until the age of 6-7 years. Of the annual increments, no more than 5 of the strongest are left.

It is recommended to prune blueberries in the spring, as early as possible before the buds have blossomed. Autumn pruning is practiced only in areas with a mild climate and a high level of snow cover.

Important! After flowering, large doses of nitrogen are not applied under the bushes, which provoke excessive growth of shoots in autumn. The growths that did not have time to ripen do not tolerate wintering well.

Blueberries in autumn

After harvesting and falling leaves, you should prepare the blueberries for winter.

  1. It is necessary to remove broken eyelids, fallen leaves. At the slightest sign of fungal diseases, diseased shoots and foliage are burned.
  2. If autumn is dry, then intensified watering is carried out in order to saturate the root layer with moisture. To do this, up to 6 buckets of water are poured under each bush.
  3. The land under the bushes is mulched. Plants will need an extra dose of nitrogen when using fresh sawdust. Top dressing of blueberries in the fall should restore its deficiency. Microorganisms that decompose sawdust intensively absorb nitrogen from the soil.
  4. In the conditions of a region with low winter temperatures for blueberry bushes, they create additional protection from any available materials, except for plastic wrap. It can be spruce branches, burlap, spunbond, pieces of foam rubber.

Caring for blueberries in the fall includes protection from rodent infestations. Hibernating under a layer of mulch, mice gnaw the bark, dig in the roots. It is necessary to set up traps in the fall and spread the poison in places of their possible habitat.

Which varieties to choose

One cultivar can be cultivated in the garden, but the fruiting period for the main species is usually very short. You will enjoy fresh berries for about 2 weeks, and then you will only eat jams and mashed strawberries with sugar. Experienced summer residents harvest all summer, and sometimes from early spring to late autumn and even winter, growing bushes in a greenhouse.

To keep the berries on the table all season, choose about 5 different types of seeds with different ripening times. At the same time, keep in mind that garden strawberries are not very capricious, but when grown in an unsuitable climate or soil composition, they may not give a large yield. Assess the weather and soil conditions of your site - and you can purchase planting material. Read the instructions on the bags, ask the seller, but it is better to give preference to zoned varieties.

The selection criteria should be:

  • resistance to climatic features: frost, heat, drought
  • requirements for soil properties
  • good resistance to diseases and pests
  • timing and duration of fruiting
  • yield
  • the taste of berries.

In some cases, the gardener makes additional requirements for the variety. If you want to grow berries not only for yourself, but also for sale, the presentation and the ability to tolerate transportation well are important. Large fruits are not always suitable for jam, small strawberries are better boiled and retain their shape. Some summer residents do not like to change the plantation every 3-4 years and prefer long-lived varieties. For cultivation in a greenhouse, special requirements are imposed on the qualities of strawberries.

Early varieties of garden strawberries:

  • Marshmallow
  • Kama
  • Enchantress
  • Dawn.

Strawberries, medium ripening:

  • Festivalnaya
  • Cinderella
  • Marmalade
  • Fairy.

  • Zenga-Zengana
  • Black Prince
  • Pandora.

If it is difficult to find varieties with late ripening periods, purchase remontant species. Their fruiting period is long, the crop can be harvested before frost. Breeders have bred garden strawberries that can bear fruit twice a season. The first collection takes place in early summer, then the berries will appear in the fall. If you want to purchase such plants, make sure that the weather conditions in your summer cottage are suitable for them. Long-bearing varieties are also suitable for growing in a greenhouse.

Key elements of agricultural technology for garden strawberries

1. Strawberries are on the list of leaders in terms of the number of diseases and pests, therefore planting a plantation with healthy planting material is the foundation of success. Serious nurseries producing seedlings annually lay out mother plantations with super-elite material from micropropagation laboratories, growing plants in conditions of spatial isolation and preventing flowering and fruiting of mother plants. The service life of such mother liquors is no more than two years.

Planting healthy seedlings will allow the gardener to avoid the most dangerous and harmful organisms: strawberry mites, root and stem strawberry nematodes, late blight, viral and mycoplasma diseases.

2. The optimum mechanical composition of the soil is medium loam. Garden strawberries are responsive to the introduction of organic fertilizers, therefore, it is good to use raised ridges for planting a plantation, adding compost, vermicompost, peat, humus to them. Planting scheme - one- or two-line with a distance between plants 30 - 35 cm.

3. Covering the soil surface with black non-woven material will help to create an optimal water-air regime for the roots, get rid of weeds and reduce the risk of damage to berries by gray rot. Plants are planted in holes with a diameter of at least 10 cm, the material is attached to the soil with metal staples or plastic pins. An alternative to non-woven material can be mulching the soil surface with straw (rye or wheat).

This is a compulsory agricultural practice in industrial farms - not without reason in England z. garden is called "straw berry"!

4. The growth of rosettes and whiskers, the setting of flower buds and the development of peduncles are opposite processes (vegetative and generative), therefore, with a bush growing method, timely removal of the whiskers will increase your yield. In the first year after planting, if you are confident in the health of the bushes, the rosettes can be used to expand the planting.

5. The critical period in water consumption is from flowering plants to the beginning of fruit growth. Drip irrigation is preferable to sprinkling. The simplest drip systems are now available in specialist shops and garden centers.

When harvesting, berries damaged by gray rot must be picked separately and removed from the plantation.

7. If the leaf apparatus is damaged by spots, you can mow and remove the leaves after harvest (no later than 10 days!). This is done so that the new leaves, which appeared in August, work to lay the flowers of the future harvest.

8. Shelter for the winter (after the onset of frost) of the site with a non-woven material (density - 40 g / m2) is guaranteed to protect plants and keep flower buds from freezing. In the spring, after the snow melts, with the onset of positive temperatures, the material is carefully collected and stored for further use.

9. The service life of strawberry plantations depends on the condition of the plants, their yield, the accumulation of diseases and pests. In practice, it usually does not exceed 3-4 years.

10. Follow the previous nine points with love for plants and the earth - and they will endow you with delicious, aromatic gourmet berries.

Despite the fact that a lot has been written and told about the differences between garden strawberries and strawberries, almost every second buyer in the nursery is disappointed and even somewhat offended by asking sellers: “Are there no strawberries or are they running out?”. So, let's repeat again: what we grow on our plots or buy in supermarkets is correctly called large-fruited strawberry (Fragaria ananassa).


Garden strawberries have many secrets, which take years to solve and, accordingly, to obtain large harvests.

But if you use the experience and tips of colleagues, things will go much faster. Therefore, I want to share with the readers those observations that help me in growing this berry.

Secret number 1

It is not for nothing that garden strawberries are called straw berries in Britain. She does not like to grow on bare ground, which means that she must be mulched. In the fall, I cover the beds with leaf litter. In the spring, after the snow melts, it cakes and turns into a very dense layer, through which it is difficult for weeds to break through. As soon as fresh grass appears, I mulch the berry with green organic matter.

Secret number 2

If you want to get a lot of berries, as well as to increase their size, remove the mustache. Otherwise, they will take food from the plants, and the yield will decrease several times. Fokin's flat cutter is excellent for removing the mustache, they cut off perfectly, and you do not have to bend over.

But how, then, to propagate this berry culture? After all, the mustache, taking root, gives rise to rosettes - a kind of strawberry seedlings. This is the next secret.

Secret number 3

To obtain high-quality planting material, set aside the mother bed. If there are very few bushes of the variety you like and you are just starting breeding new items, then choose the best bush with an abundance of large berries. The next year, remove all flowers on it so that the plant directs its forces exclusively to the formation of high-quality planting material. Do the same with other bushes in the mother bed.

Secret # 4

Keep track of the age of the strawberry patch. Remember that productivity is highest only in the first 2-3 years. One more year, you can put up with a slight decrease in the yield, but in the future it is necessary to update the beds, otherwise the yield will begin to decline sharply: the berries are crushed and then disappear altogether. It is ideal to renew the plantation every 3-4 years. Then you will always have a good harvest.

Secret # 5

In the beds of garden strawberries, the rule that I call the law of the first year is relentlessly applied. In order for the rosettes to become powerful and strong, it is necessary in the first year after planting to remove all peduncles for the development of the root system .. Do not rejoice at the first berries on young bushes, but mercilessly cut out both flowers and mustaches. Then the root system will strengthen, the bushes will calmly overwinter and will give powerful fruiting in the second year.

Secret number 6

The most important thing for garden strawberries, as well as for all other garden and garden plants, is good nutrition.Large-fruited garden strawberries are very responsive to abundant feeding, so do not starve them.

The best diet for this berry crop is feeding with herbal infusion and vermicompost solution. Top dressing is best done after good rain. It is necessary to dilute this way: for 12 liters of water - 2 liters of infusion. In total, at least 4 dressings are given: before flowering, at the time of pouring the berries, during the period of full fruiting and after harvesting. In addition, it is advisable to fertilize the plants 3 times with wood ash. For those who want a significant increase in yields, I recommend doubling or even tripling the number of dressings.

A repaired variety of garden strawberries must be fed constantly - every week, and the harvest can reach a bucket of berries from the bush.


When the first peduncles appear, strawberries should be watered with a solution of potassium nitrate (1 tsp per bucket of water, consumption - 0.5 liters per bush).

© Author: Dmitry Petrovich KHARCHEVKIN, Bryansk


Many people love garden strawberries. But not all summer residents manage to grow a good harvest of ripe and aromatic berries. A long time ago I read about how to do it right. And so far, these recommendations have been preserved in my notebook. Following them, I get an excellent harvest of my favorite berry every year.


Strawberries bear fruit well on neutral or slightly acidic soils, sufficiently moisture-absorbing and air-permeable: on sandy loam, as well as light and medium loams. It is possible to grow strawberries on clay and sandy soils, but this requires the introduction of a large amount of organic fertilizers.

The site needs to be cleared of perennial weeds, especially sow thistle and wheatgrass. Strawberries are grown in one place for 4 years, alternating with vegetables and flowers.

On a note

During the period of cultivation of this berry crop, a large number of pathogens and pests accumulate in the soil, therefore, it is planted in its original place no earlier than 2-3 years later.


Strawberries are very responsive to the introduction of organic fertilizers, which are embedded in the soil before planting (5-10 kg of manure or 8-10 kg of compost, or 10-12 kg of peat per 1 sq. M.). You can add mineral fertilizers: 50-60 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium chloride on the same area, or instead add 60-80 g of complex fertilizers. Before planting, loosening is carried out to a depth of 25-40 cm or dug onto a full bayonet of a shovel.


Strawberries are planted in spring or between July and late September. With a later planting, the mustache does not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather.

The main method of placing plants is a one-line planting with a distance between rows of about 80, and between plants 15-30 cm, depending on the size of the bush. In small areas I use a two-line

planting scheme, while the distance between the rows is 60-70, and between the lines -40 cm. On sandy and sandy loam soils, beds are not recommended. In low areas with loamy soil, plants can be planted on ridges 8-10 cm high.

The length of the roots of the seedlings should be at least 5 cm, in dry and sunny weather I dip them in a clay mash. After planting, the seedlings must be watered (3 liters per 1 sq. M). When planting, make sure that the growth point (heart) is at the level of the soil. If the plant is planted deeply, it can die from damping. With a shallow planting, the plant will either dry out or develop poorly.

Good results are obtained by mulching the soil after planting, which protects the strawberries from winter bulging. After the seedlings take root and form the first leaves, it is necessary to loosen the aisles. Strawberries winter well under the snow, but sometimes in late autumn, when there is still no snow, and the temperature drops to 15-20 degrees below zero, young plants, which are still very sensitive to low temperatures, may die. To prevent this from happening, I cover them with straw, spruce branches, foliage or just branches to trap snow.

In the spring, the next year after planting, young plants often bulge out of the soil. They must be buried by pressing into the ground. Further care consists in weeding and loosening the row spacings. As a rule, peduncles are removed from plants of the first year in order to get a high yield for the next year. But with an early planting on abundantly fertilized soil, you can get a good harvest from well-developed plants in the first year.


To be with berries next year, it is necessary, starting in July, once a month to remove the mustache.

In the second and subsequent years in the spring, dry leaves are removed from the plants. After that, for the first loosening, I apply full mineral fertilizer. Its rates depend on how the site was refueled before planting. Usually it is 10-20 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate and 5-10 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. m.To increase the yield, especially on peat soils, it is useful to carry out mulching in rows with humus, compost or peat <толщина -8-10="">

The second feeding is carried out during the period of berry formation. I bring in 25-30 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate and the same amount of potassium chloride per 1 sq. m.

After harvest, in the second half of summer, strawberries require careful maintenance. At this time, there is an active growth of shoots (horns), roots and leaves. And from the end of August, the laying of inflorescences of the next year's harvest begins. Therefore, after picking berries, it is necessary to weed the rows, apply fertilizers and deeply loosen the aisles. August feeding is also very important. Good results are obtained by introducing ash (150 g per 1 square meter) or nitrophoska (dissolve 30 g of the substance in 10 liters of water, the rate of watering one bush is 0.5 liters).

Watch the video: 7 Tips to Grow a Lot of Strawberries

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